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Bass Switches

Hi,

Sorry if this has been asked before! But having searched for quite a while I thought posting on here would be the best way to get an answer.

Here goes:

I have a Schecter Diamond Elite 5 with EMG-Hz pickups and the stock preamp. I want to add 3 switches to the bass, but I am unsure which switches to use (on/on (type) DPDT (sort) etc.) so I thought I'd ask.

The functions I like to add are as follows:

- A toggle on/off switch to completely cut the signal from the bass to the amp. A kill switch if you like.

- A toggle passive/active switch. Ideally I'd still like to use the EQ dials but if that's not possible then it's fine.

- A Series/parallel switch. I have already installed these on my other passive basses but I wondered if this different due to the fact it's active.

Any help on which type of switches to use, or diagrams or any information would be brilliant!

Many thanks in advance!

Sam
 
all of the above could be done, but why would you want a toggle kill switch? To save battery consumption instead of unplugging it?

I'll google your bass routing and wiring diagram here in a bit.

Invalid Link Removed for the passive/active and Series/parallel switch
 
Last edited:
- A toggle on/off switch to completely cut the signal from the bass to the amp. A kill switch if you like.
D.P.D.T. (normally on a passive all you need is a S.P.S.T. connected from output to ground but since you have and active bass you will need to insure the output of the preamp is open so it is not shorted when you short the output to the output jack for killing the sound.

- A toggle passive/active switch. Ideally I'd still like to use the EQ dials but if that's not possible then it's fine.
D.P.D.T. The Preamp input must be open as well as the output of the preamp so one side of the switch will open the input and the other side open the output. If you do not open the input too you can and usually get popping when you switch between active and passive.

- A Series/parallel switch. I have already installed these on my other passive basses but I wondered if this different due to the fact it's active.
D.P.D.T.

I will try and get you some drawings later if no one responds before I do. Note: in lu of adding mini switches you can get pots with switches attached in either Push/Pull or Push/Push That will keep your bass looking original if you have room in your control cavity
 
- A toggle on/off switch to completely cut the signal from the bass to the amp. A kill switch if you like.
D.P.D.T. (normally on a passive all you need is a S.P.S.T. connected from output to ground but since you have and active bass you will need to insure the output of the preamp is open so it is not shorted when you short the output to the output jack for killing the sound.

- A toggle passive/active switch. Ideally I'd still like to use the EQ dials but if that's not possible then it's fine.
D.P.D.T. The Preamp input must be open as well as the output of the preamp so one side of the switch will open the input and the other side open the output. If you do not open the input too you can and usually get popping when you switch between active and passive.

- A Series/parallel switch. I have already installed these on my other passive basses but I wondered if this different due to the fact it's active.
D.P.D.T.

I will try and get you some drawings later if no one responds before I do. Note: in lu of adding mini switches you can get pots with switches attached in either Push/Pull or Push/Push That will keep your bass looking original if you have room in your control cavity

Thank you so much! That would be brilliant!
 
Than
all of the above could be done, but why would you want a toggle kill switch? To save battery consumption instead of unplugging it?

I'll google your bass routing and wiring diagram here in a bit.

Invalid Link Removed for the passive/active and Series/parallel switch

Thank you so much, wiring diagrams would be brilliant! I do a lot of improvisation, which means I am switching between bass guitar and double bass and it would mean I could switch it on and off quickly without unplugging it from the mixer/amp.
 
Killswitch:
3534458432_52daab840a_o.png

Active/Passive:
4065969204_e9e0cb5e54_o.png

Series/Parallel:
B7W5Rv0.gif
 
Hi,

I am quite new to this sort of thing, and although I've done basses before, the wiring on this one is a little different to the basses I've done before.

So I have take multiple pictures which show the wiring and I was wondering if there was any chance that someone could draw a diagram or describe which bits I need to solder to the switches in order for the whole thing to work?

It would be a huge help!

I look forward to your helpful responses!

Many thanks

Sam
 

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Here's some more. And a small diagram of where the cables from the balance control go.
 

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So you want two volume pots, a series/parallel switch, an active/passive switch, and a killswitch?

I'll draw a diagram in a few days.

Hi,

That is correct. Obviously I'd like to keep the blend and the tone pot too. If possible.

So it would be two volume pots, a blend pot, a tone pot, a series/parallel switch, an active/passive switch, and a killswitch.

If that would be okay.

Diagrams would be absolutely fantastic!

Thank you so much!

Many thanks

Sam
 
Hi,

That is correct. Obviously I'd like to keep the blend and the tone pot too. If possible.

So it would be two volume pots, a blend pot, a tone pot, a series/parallel switch, an active/passive switch, and a killswitch.

If that would be okay.

Diagrams would be absolutely fantastic!

Thank you so much!

Many thanks

Sam

I've never heard of anyone doing a blend plus two volumes. That is unnecessary and impractical.

Having a blend pot with a series/parallel switch presents an issue. Standard wiring causes the blend pot to behave as a volume pot when you are in series mode. You can either live with this, or choose one of two alternatives. The first is to use a 3PDT switch for series/parallel switching, taking advantage of the third pole to bypass the blend pot. The second is to opt for a different switching scheme (on a standard DPDT switch), in conjunction with an "ungrounded" MN taper blend pot.
 
I've never heard of anyone doing a blend plus two volumes. That is unnecessary and impractical.

Having a blend pot with a series/parallel switch presents an issue. Standard wiring causes the blend pot to behave as a volume pot when you are in series mode. You can either live with this, or choose one of two alternatives. The first is to use a 3PDT switch for series/parallel switching, taking advantage of the third pole to bypass the blend pot. The second is to opt for a different switching scheme (on a standard DPDT switch), in conjunction with an "ungrounded" MN taper blend pot.

Hi,

Sorry, I got mixed up! What I actually want is two volumes, one bass and one treble pot as well as series/parallel switch, an active/passive switch, and a killswitch.

Would that be okay?

Many thanks

Sam
 
- A toggle on/off switch to completely cut the signal from the bass to the amp. A kill switch if you like.
D.P.D.T. (normally on a passive all you need is a S.P.S.T. connected from output to ground but since you have and active bass you will need to insure the output of the preamp is open so it is not shorted when you short the output to the output jack for killing the sound.

IME, disconnecting and reconnecting active outputs without proper decoupling can lead to all sorts of nasty pops. A kill-switch on an active setup would be better placed across the volume pots (so same as turning the volume to 0) rather than disconnecting the output. Can still be done with a DPDT switch.
 

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