That mixer won't work with a passive bass. You will need a D.I to make it work as you need it to.
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Bass trough PC.
- Thread starter thebas
- Start date
I currently play an active bass (used passive basses in the past) through my computer using a cheap Line6 Guitarport (USB) interface. I run it through a 500 watt Logictech speaker system with subwoofer. My speakers have no problem handling the bass frequencies. People outside my house can hear me play, so the volume is reasonable and the sound quality is decent.
That 'pedal' you speak of is a DI box! Thats what they are designed for, and that would be the most common way of solving your problem,
bass>DI>MicPre>Line in>Computer
Thats the normal un-miked signal path for recording bass guitar the world over! However it does mean buying a couple of things, and you can get many preamps these days with high impedance instrument intputs built in. The Art mentioned is one of those (it seems from the blurb), and many interfaces have them on these days as well...
I'm sitting at my computer right now with my passive bass plugged into my Behringer UB802, with the mixer outputs plugged into my M-Audio 24/96 PCI card, recording my bass in Sonar... seems to work just fine for me. Now, I've definitely heard better bass tones in my life, but it is passable.
I also recall a few times in the "real" recording studios plugging my bass directly into the mixing desk, worked then too.
Thanks everybody. Thank You.
So, once again, the ART mentioned above would replace DI AND MicPre in your chain above?
http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/product/Behringer-TUBE-ULTRAGAIN-MIC100-Preamp?sku=182482
At the risk of angering the Behringer h8ters....
This is actually a nice little unit if used properly (and cheaper than a DI box, and a phantom power unit - both of which you would likely end up buying anyway as you get more into recording). Don't use the tube gain too much. A little dab'll-do-ya. There's not enough plate voltage for it to break up smoothly, but it does add a nice little 'something.' This works great with a passive bass, and an EMU soundcard. I'd just watch the levels on the "Patchmix" program. They get very close to clipping at default levels. Back 'em off a bit. Your DAW will thank you.
Anyway, works a treat with passive bass, and you could probably find a used one for $15-$20 if you kept your eyes open. You'll use it for microphones too, just you wait and see...
I've been using a SansAmp Tri-AC as my main DI for recording bass (even through I have the BDDI) into the MIC100. Very clean, and just the right amount of breakup.
At the risk of angering the Behringer h8ters....
This is actually a nice little unit if used properly (and cheaper than a DI box, and a phantom power unit - both of which you would likely end up buying anyway as you get more into recording). Don't use the tube gain too much. A little dab'll-do-ya. There's not enough plate voltage for it to break up smoothly, but it does add a nice little 'something.' This works great with a passive bass, and an EMU soundcard. I'd just watch the levels on the "Patchmix" program. They get very close to clipping at default levels. Back 'em off a bit. Your DAW will thank you.
Anyway, works a treat with passive bass, and you could probably find a used one for $15-$20 if you kept your eyes open. You'll use it for microphones too, just you wait and see...
I've been using a SansAmp Tri-AC as my main DI for recording bass (even through I have the BDDI) into the MIC100. Very clean, and just the right amount of breakup.
Thats right. Basically anything that calls itself a 'high impedance' input will be good for plugging a bass into. Theres a bit more to it than that but not much. The art has a high impedance input, and is a preamp so all is good.
The behringer above is very simialr for a bit less BUT doesn't have the high impedance input. May sound fine though, mismatched impedance in that direction just makes everything sound harder and more brittle.
It can be hard to notice on basses though. I play double bass as well though, which uses ULTRA high impedance pickups, plug one of those into a mic pre with no DI and you'll know about it real quick! Horrible sound, once I noticed the effect I started to really notice it on electric bass too.
In terms of the internals, I'm sure both boxes are pretty similar. I would imagine the tube in the ART preamp is similarily under-powered so won't really get you any 'tube tone' but it will probably sound fine.
For MIC100 it says impedance 1MOhm in spec. Isn't that enough for HiZ?
EDIT: Do you recommend to try to get that 'DI>PreAmp' thing with balanced TRS 1/4' LineOut, so I can use balanced connection between it and my 1212m? For playing and maybe recording.
Or its no worth it.
EDIT: Do you recommend to try to get that 'DI>PreAmp' thing with balanced TRS 1/4' LineOut, so I can use balanced connection between it and my 1212m? For playing and maybe recording.
Or its no worth it.
Ah yeah, thats enough, my mistake. I had only read the main blurb and as it only mentioned mic and line inputs I assumed there was no instrument-safe input!
Someone mentioned getting a little mixer (which will also act as a preamp). It will not only save you wear and tear on your soundcard (the mixer act's kind like a patchbay too) so you're not plugging in to your PC all the time, and you can run balanced to and from your PC. As with the MIC100 or similar you could probably find a little Behringer Eurorack type mixer used for very little cash.
Sorry, it's like anything else for gas. You put a soundcard in your PC and you find yourself with a gas list a mile long. You will soon own more cables of more kinds than you every imagined. Sorry.
Sorry, it's like anything else for gas. You put a soundcard in your PC and you find yourself with a gas list a mile long. You will soon own more cables of more kinds than you every imagined. Sorry.
Hm, yeah. Mic100 has balanced inputs and outputs, both XLR and TRS 1/4'. It can go straight into 1212m over balanced connection using stereo TRS 1/4' cable. And the bass directly into Mic100. Thats ok with me.
What You mean, Thud, with 'to save wear and tear of my sound card'???
Cable from MIC100 would be plugged into 1212m all the time. Only wear and tear would be cable to the bass guitar - everything else stays connected.
I would buy the mixer so I can connect both L and R channels (and not only L or only R as with MIC100 alone) of my EMU to it, and maybe to be able to record more instruments....but that's not in my plan (recording). But you never know.
Why would I need balanced FROM my PC?
Thanks.
What You mean, Thud, with 'to save wear and tear of my sound card'???
Cable from MIC100 would be plugged into 1212m all the time. Only wear and tear would be cable to the bass guitar - everything else stays connected.
I would buy the mixer so I can connect both L and R channels (and not only L or only R as with MIC100 alone) of my EMU to it, and maybe to be able to record more instruments....but that's not in my plan (recording). But you never know.
Why would I need balanced FROM my PC?
Thanks.
Sounds like a plan.
Balanced is always a little better, rejects noise and interference a little more, any path that audio follows will benefit from it. That said, the short path from pc to speakers at line level is not going to make or break what you hear back through the monitors!
And need to buy the balanced cable....
The main thing to watch out for if you are using a stereo system for amplification are transient spikes - these can really blow a speaker easily.
A transient is the initial 'attack' of a sound, the first ramp up to what in many cases is the loudest an audio signal will get.
Think of a snare drum, that has a big transient. Take a look at a snare drums waveform by loading a snare sample into your DAW and you'll see the initial 'attack' happens very sharply and quickly.
An electric bass has a fairly noticeable transient at the beggining as well.
A bowed violin string has a very soft transient, its difficult to see where a note starts on a waveform!
On a synthesiser, the sounds transient is controlled by the 'attack' control.
This is very general explanation, but it should give you an idea of the basics.
When unplugging mic's with the volume up, or turning on bits of gear AFTER you turn on the speaker amps pops can occur. This happens to a lesser degree when unplugging jack's from basses or drummers hitting mics by accident. All these things are unaturally large transients and if your speakers are up high when they happen it may force the speaker cone to move so fast or so aggressively it damages the speaker in some way.
If you obey good practice and mute the speakers (or at least the track you are working on) when unplugging things you should be safe. A snare transient or similar can also cause the same effect if you are listening very loud, but you would normally get the warning signs first, like the speakers sounding horrible and your ears hurting!
Hifi speakers are a little less robust that most monitors, so there is a little more risk, but obey good practice and you'll be completely safe!
Thanks Charling. I'll remember that!
My amp is at 9 o'clock and that gives me enough sound.
Regarding bass trough PC, I finally connected everything: Mic100 preamp, Washburn Headless bass, 1212m interface, and Hifi system. Everything seems ok. There is no hum or noise (more than usual).
The peak level meters on the Behringer MIC100 preamp accurately compete with the PatchMix (emu owners will know) peak level meters. That said, I keep an eye on preamp for clipping, and Im safe.
Tha preamp has 2 pots put to the 12 oclock both so i have no clipping and even more headroom for louder playing. On patchmix everything on zero.
So, I dont know what else to say,
Thanks everybody,
If there are any questions - feel free to ask here.
My amp is at 9 o'clock and that gives me enough sound.
Regarding bass trough PC, I finally connected everything: Mic100 preamp, Washburn Headless bass, 1212m interface, and Hifi system. Everything seems ok. There is no hum or noise (more than usual).
The peak level meters on the Behringer MIC100 preamp accurately compete with the PatchMix (emu owners will know) peak level meters. That said, I keep an eye on preamp for clipping, and Im safe.
Tha preamp has 2 pots put to the 12 oclock both so i have no clipping and even more headroom for louder playing. On patchmix everything on zero.
So, I dont know what else to say,
Thanks everybody,
If there are any questions - feel free to ask here.
Hey guyz....
As a PC only Bassist (now!!!) I thought I'd pass on some recommendations that I have acquired over the last few years (since I gave up gigging live) of trying and testing Amp Sim Software, particularly for use with Bass. Firstly - a little heads up on my Hardware setup. I use both Active and Passive Basses (either works fine) thru a Line6 Toneport GX (great cheap Interface) and I also use a Zoom ZFX Floor Controller for Patching and MIDI Control. The Line6 has almost Zero Latency, so there is Zero Time Lap, even on fast Slapping and Tapping....
As for Software... Most Guitar Amp Sims can happily be used for Bass providing you have a good EQ, but here are my personal favourites. The Amplitube Fender Module has several excellent Bass Amp Sims which I highly recommend. The MarkBass Studio 1 is my current favourite and offers 3 dedicated Bass Amps and 6 Cabs and is the one I'd buy if I just needed one PC Bass Amp Sim. Overloud TH1 has no dedicated Bass Amps as such, but the sound is great and the FX are many and impressive. Studio Devil Bass Amp is very compact and good value, but offers a nice Bass sound, as well as being easy to use. I also like the Waves GTR3 package, which offers dedicated Bass Amps and a great FX Rack. I do use the Line6 POD Farm2 because I got it free and it offers a lot of stuff (especially FX), but I've never been happy with the Bass side of things. I also use Zoom ZFX software because it has good flexibility, but lacks sound quality. I'll mention Amplitube3, Revalver3 and Guitar Rig4 but I can't, in all honesty, recommend them for Bass, but they do have good FX and are a lot of fun (but are a bit pricey!!) If I had to buy just ONE tomorrow, it would definitely be the MarkBass Studio 1, even though it has minimal FX. The built in Compressor and the Cab & Mic Functions are excellent, as is the EQ-ing from the Amps themselves. Besides the Amplitube Fender Module, it's the only one that really "Feels" like a Bass Rig. Feel free to contact me if you want to know more details or assistance ....MARK
As a PC only Bassist (now!!!) I thought I'd pass on some recommendations that I have acquired over the last few years (since I gave up gigging live) of trying and testing Amp Sim Software, particularly for use with Bass. Firstly - a little heads up on my Hardware setup. I use both Active and Passive Basses (either works fine) thru a Line6 Toneport GX (great cheap Interface) and I also use a Zoom ZFX Floor Controller for Patching and MIDI Control. The Line6 has almost Zero Latency, so there is Zero Time Lap, even on fast Slapping and Tapping....
As for Software... Most Guitar Amp Sims can happily be used for Bass providing you have a good EQ, but here are my personal favourites. The Amplitube Fender Module has several excellent Bass Amp Sims which I highly recommend. The MarkBass Studio 1 is my current favourite and offers 3 dedicated Bass Amps and 6 Cabs and is the one I'd buy if I just needed one PC Bass Amp Sim. Overloud TH1 has no dedicated Bass Amps as such, but the sound is great and the FX are many and impressive. Studio Devil Bass Amp is very compact and good value, but offers a nice Bass sound, as well as being easy to use. I also like the Waves GTR3 package, which offers dedicated Bass Amps and a great FX Rack. I do use the Line6 POD Farm2 because I got it free and it offers a lot of stuff (especially FX), but I've never been happy with the Bass side of things. I also use Zoom ZFX software because it has good flexibility, but lacks sound quality. I'll mention Amplitube3, Revalver3 and Guitar Rig4 but I can't, in all honesty, recommend them for Bass, but they do have good FX and are a lot of fun (but are a bit pricey!!) If I had to buy just ONE tomorrow, it would definitely be the MarkBass Studio 1, even though it has minimal FX. The built in Compressor and the Cab & Mic Functions are excellent, as is the EQ-ing from the Amps themselves. Besides the Amplitube Fender Module, it's the only one that really "Feels" like a Bass Rig. Feel free to contact me if you want to know more details or assistance ....MARK
I use Aguilars Tone Hammer, it sounds like it would give you exactly what your looking for. With the eq set flat it doesnt affect the tone. For your purposes dont use the AGS function of the pedal.
