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basscyclist thread picture thread

Had a nice ride on the Tour de BBQ yesterday! Got to eat some good food, have a couple of beers and ride 60 miles. Some fairly steep climbs and a headwind on the last 20 miles or so made for a challenging ride. I was quite tired by the end! The ride ended up raising about $100K for the University of Kansas Transitional Cancer Center.
 

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Violating more TB rules here (need to get pics of this stuff) but I had a few minutes to start cracking open my super V on the bench last night and it is helping me learn a lot.

I discovered that the rear shock cap was loose – I took the shock out to start cleaning it and the cap wasn’t under any pressure at all. That said, I’m going to see if I can replace the oil in it (since I’m not worried about the potential danger of a highly pressurized nitrogen charge blowing it up) and reinstall it. Sacrilege, I know.

I pulled out the rear pivot bushing and it needed a good cleaning. Maybe a good layer of grease will help take up some of the slack as there’s really no way to shim it - I might just have to live with a little play there.

Since I pulled the right side crank arm and looked at the chainrings more closely, I think they are fine, and it appears that the teeth that appear worn may be by design (pic forthcoming). Haven’t looked at anything else yet.

I think mostly what is needed is just elbow grease; for less than $200 I think it was a good buy. If I can get it back together and 'mostly' functional without risking life or limb I'll be happy, even if it's not 100%. My only other challenge will be the front fork. Really looking forward to that one.

I'm trying to keep this in the context of repair vs. purchasing new; after stopping by my local Cannondale dealer earlier this week, there's no way I could go with a new full suspension ride. :eek::eek::eek: While I can appreciate the value of investing $2-$3K in a bike (like a nice bass) I can't justify (or afford) that right now. That makes my lemonade project much less unattractive.

Cheers...
 
Fellow bassists/cyclists, need a bit of help. The Killer V 1000 I picked up was in need of a bit more TLC than what I expected. I discovered this when I met the seller, and as such purchased it for much less than originally advertised. Was wondering if anyone was experienced with the following:

1. 8-speed shifter (Deore LX) only works for the smallest 3-4 rear rings - it won't 'catch' and move the derailleur up to the remaining ones.
2. Headshok won't lock. Action feels smooth, just won't lock when I turn the knob.
3. Fox Vanilla R rear shock needs oil/rebuild (no dampening).
4. Rear susp. arm pivot wiggles a little (need to disassemble and check it out).

Only other thing it needs is a large chainring; rest of the drivetrain looks good, overall condition of the bike is good, and it has aero rims and bladed spokes. Also, rear disc brake (v brakes up front).

I'm trying to do my research on how to go through everything but I'm not finding much in the way of parts. There are youtube vids of the fork/shock rebuilding, just need parts for them (seen a few kits on eBay).

Any links/tips/experience would be helpful!!

Thanks, Eric

PS, I know I'm violating TB rules by not posting a pic yet. Please be patient...

Just saw this and your other post. Wish I could offer more info, but as a roadie I know zero about suspension. Your shifting has been addressed by another post, and similarly, I find its trial and error, I always start with new cable and housing, and work as if installing a new derailer. If ther are still problems, I look to the shifter itself, or possibly bent derailleur hanger, and so on. I'm having weird intermittent issues with my rear shifting myself. Having eliminated everything else, I'm down to the shifter itself.

Post a pic of the chainring, I can actually help with that. Odds are it is by design, to help the chain up onto the big ring, they shorten the teeth at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke where tension on the chain is the lowest.
 
Just saw this and your other post. Wish I could offer more info, but as a roadie I know zero about suspension. Your shifting has been addressed by another post, and similarly, I find its trial and error, I always start with new cable and housing, and work as if installing a new derailer. If ther are still problems, I look to the shifter itself, or possibly bent derailleur hanger, and so on. I'm having weird intermittent issues with my rear shifting myself. Having eliminated everything else, I'm down to the shifter itself.

Post a pic of the chainring, I can actually help with that. Odds are it is by design, to help the chain up onto the big ring, they shorten the teeth at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke where tension on the chain is the lowest.
Your last statement seems correct. I figured it might be to prevent damage if you're attempting to grind over a log or something, but this seems to make more sense. That said, having looked more closely at the drivetrain it's in pretty good shape. I took the chain off; then realized it had a quick-release link so I used my chain tool and put it back together. Oops.

The shifting issue is in the shifter itself; the Cannondale shop said to disassemble it and clean/lube it good; if there is something broken in there I'll just need another trigger shifter. The derailleurs are fine.

Some back story: the owner listed the bike for $325; I offered $275 and he agreed. While driving down (about 45 min into the trip) he called me to tell me the front derailleur wasn't able to get the chain onto the largest ring, so he knocked off another $50 from the price. Once I discovered everything else, I offered 150 but we settled for $170. Considering I paid $130 (plus tax, etc.) for my son's F700, I think it was still a good buy.

Oh, I watched a Headshok fork rebuild Youtube video so now I'm really dangerous - J/K, at least I'm not trying to do surgery on a tube amp. I think I can tackle cleaning and lubing them, and hopefully changing out the oil. This 'send to Cannondale' nonsense is a cash-grab. Every 40 hours? Seriously?? That trip to the shop really made me appreciate my vintage road bike and this one, they're all I need.

Raz
 
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$170???? Wow - I might need to go used MTB shopping to upgrade my 1990 Bridgestone MB4.
There was another Super V, almost identical, in another part of town (and would have been much closer) but the one I got has aero rims and bladed spokes, and a rear disc brake. Three hours south of me is a Raven 3000 that needs a rear shock. I'd like to have that one - the carbon frame is sweet - but I should be good with mine.

Since this has forced me to get back into the hardware side of bikes I think I'm much better prepared for my next purchase. BTW, I paid $100 for my Cadex from a pawn shop - and didn't put much else into it aside from a computer, lights, and bar tape! I already had the aero bar; a set of tri-spokes would be sweet, but I'm happy with it - actually, reeeeeely happy with it knowing what I would need to spend to replace it with something new. Wow.
 
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While we are on the subject of mountain bikes, here is my Giant ATX 880. I got it for free about a month ago! I was driving by a house that was being rehabbed and there were two bikes sitting on a pile of junk in the driveway. I stopped and asked if they were throwing them out and they said yes. They offered me both bikes but the other was a cheaper bike in poor condition. I had to replace the rear axle, put a new saddle on it and new tires, so I have about $100 in it.
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Pics of the project. After cleaning and greasing the pivot there is no more play. Need to fill the shock and address the fork and shifter.

Edit: Note the gunk on the pivot spacers (round things next to the bar end) and the axle.
 

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Yahoo! The rear shock absorber needs a little more TLC and eventually the cables need to get replaced but right now it works and it's fun!
 

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