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basses for newbies (SX batch build thread)

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Just find it frutrating that the 2 SX's I bought from Kurt came in on a ship from China, got smashed around by UPS, and were still much better than Fenders made in Mexico and shipped to Maryland

Maybe these statistics are just an anomaly but I actualy walked in to GC with the idea of buying a CV based on such good reviews here and I like the idea of having a real Fender and not some no name copy

I just don't have the patience and the time to screw around looking for a playable bass in local music stores; back in the day, the Fender rep actualy cared about the instruments in the shop being decent players; not so sure they even have reps that vist stores any longer
 
Just find it frutrating that the 2 SX's I bought from Kurt came in on a ship from China, got smashed around by UPS, and were still much better than Fenders made in Mexico and shipped to Maryland
As the owner of a "Maryland Mexican" Fender (I bought this 2009 Standard Jazz Bass [Upgrade] at the GC in Rockville), I'd have to cast some doubt on that assertion. Sure, my SX is a decent bass, but it doesn't really equal my Fender in fit-and-finish and overall playability and sound. Individual basses vary, of course, but when comparing SX to Fender you really do get what you pay for more often than not.
 
The only difference is I know how to take pretty pictures, and I take it upon myself to document in excruciating detail everything I do because I thought someone out there in the internets could benefit from the play-by-play.

This.

A well illustrated step-by-step manual is much more valuable than the latest and greatest (and unreadable) techno-babble reference. I know. I've spent my years working in IT and know a good guide when I see one.

This thread has given me the courage (and some knowledge) to start work on a replacement bone nut for my 5er. And I know a bit more on shielding. I won't attempt the neck/frets "chungification" yet because as luck would have it, the action on my basses is already low enough for my tastes, the playability is great (for me), and, looky here, no fret buzz! The necks look straight and solid and I'll leave well enough alone. :D

BTW, I own a Classic Vibe 60s Jazz (basswood) and an Affinity Jazz V (alder) and have found them to be great instruments for me to learn on. (Yes, I'm a n00b.) I need to mention that I got me the Jerzy Drozd ultimate bass setup guide and that has helped me immensely in understanding how to set up my basses. At least I know more now than I did back in August of last year when I bought them, and I have a better idea what to look for if I had to go out and buy another instrument. These (Squiers) have proven wayyyyy better than what I started with (and already sold). But I've been curious about the SXes because everybody's ravin' about them and dude, how can you go wrong for $100? So I ran into this thread and have followed ever since.

Sorry 'bout the novel. Peace out. :smug:
 
I "Chungified" my CV Jazz (electronics & shielding) and it's pretty darn killer! I did a pretty fair job on the setup myself as well. I haven't played another Fender Jazz yet that FELT any better. I'm sure there will be a sound gap to be found with more experienced fingers at work, but at my level, this is a seriously quality instrument.
 
too much talking, not enough bass building. . . :D

Time for some more work on #7. Clamped up the neck to set alignment and drill new holes.

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The neck plate seemed to be stuck on this bass, but some may consider that to be a "feature". I didn't stress about it. . . 3/16" hole going in. . .

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Neck pocket and neck with pretty new holes. I shimmed the neck while clamping it in place because I knew this bass would need it from where the strings were sitting when it came out of the box. This way, the neck screws will fit a little better than if I shimmed it after the holes were drilled.

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I was trying to figure out a way to make the scariest operation in the entire build a little less scary, and may have come up with something. What scares me most is how the drill bit walks a little when I drill for inserts and not always predictably. The walking is mitigated somewhat by using a faster RPM when drilling, but that just makes things even scarier and quite exciting as the hole gets punched in really fast. I looked at how clean the initial neck holes were because the body was serving as a guide for the drill bit, and figured I could use one of my scraps as a guide. . . and it worked really well. I kindof eyeballed the neck screw angle (remember this is an SX) and since my guide hole is a little bit angled as well, I could roughly match them up. This ended up working really well. . . no more walking. . . and much less scary.

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The resulting holes are nice and clean. They are also a bit tighter than hand-drilled so the inserts fit a tighter.

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A little grease to lube up the threads. This really helps things go together smoothly and lets you torque down the neck better. Plus, it puts less stress on the insert threads if you need to dis-assemble/re-assemble the instrument.

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Neck is set . . . I only have 4 more 1 1/2" oval head screws, so it's going to be time to restock soon.

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Pickup, neck, and bridge alignment is good.

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I then stripped the bass and leveled the frets and then crowned/polished them. This neck was difficult to level. There were a few dips and humps going on and I had to remove quite a bit of fret material. The 12th fret was the low one here. This is also the neck I had to do that fret replacement on. One thing to note is the Stewmac frets are harder than the stock SX ones. I forgot to take in-process fret level pics, but the neck ended up nice and flat. . . I double checked this one a lot with the fret rocker to make sure I didn't have any surprises like on #5. Everything checks out and this one should set up great. On a sad note, I killed my cheap Ebay diamond fret file. It's lost too many diamond particles and no longer cuts without significant effort. The tool worked pretty decently for 4 basses, so if you're wanting to do 1 or 2 basses, it might not be such a bad option, but for me, it's a total bummer because I've got ~10 more to go before this show's over. I'm going to order the one I should have got in the beginning from Stewmac.

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If all goes well, I should be able to finish this tomorrow. I need to shield it, install the Nordstrand NP4, wire it up, re-assemble, and set up. This will be good because I'll have a bass with the 10% hotter NP4 as well as the stock one, so I can go back and forth to compare. . . which is always helpful.

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I'm thinking one of the biggest attractions for me with a J style SX is the neck shape; never realized it was a 12" radius as reported by Chung

Who else makes a 12" radius econo bass?
Continued thanks Mr. C; can't remember neck screw diameter; is it an 8-32; send a PM and I'll send you a box
 
Chunger, I'm not entirely clear on how you made msking the holes for the threaded inserts "less scary" but I'm dying to know more details on that step lest I one day be fool enough to try it (Please God on an SX or Squier and not on either of my Fenders, okay?).

I'm a little hazy on it too, probably because I don't know the first thing about woodworking. Could you shed some more light for us "blockheads"?
 
I believe that chunger drilled a hole through a piece of stock, clamped it to the neck, clamped the neck down and drilled the holes. The stock is to keep the drill from drilling anywhere but it's intended path.
 
Ok, I dont know if it is just me, but I've been subscribed to this thread for a long time. I own a stock SX and its killing my paranoia to see you "fixing" these basses. Every time I play mine I wonder "does this need to be Chungerfied". I stare at the neck pocket wondering if it is messed up, I stare at the strings over the pickups thinking they are misaligned. (sigh). I LOVE this thread, but its making me wonder if any bass is set up enough to play "correctly".
I know you've said you werent taking on customers yet, but I would really like to know how much it would cost for you to do all this to my stock SX. I am a beginner, and all this talk of these going to students makes me jealous. I'm still learning and I want to make sure any errors in the sound/playing is because of me, not my instrument. lol.
What would your thoughts be on giving a stock bass an Chungering in the near future? (or anyone's for that matter).
 
Hmmm. It does seem a bit risky, though, considering the screw holes are often crooked. Like he said, Chung eyeballed it to get it close, but I dunno, it seems like that's an added step with possible extra room for error...
 
Ok, I dont know if it is just me, but I've been subscribed to this thread for a long time. I own a stock SX and its killing my paranoia to see you "fixing" these basses. Every time I play mine I wonder "does this need to be Chungerfied". I stare at the neck pocket wondering if it is messed up, I stare at the strings over the pickups thinking they are misaligned. (sigh). I LOVE this thread, but its making me wonder if any bass is set up enough to play "correctly".
I know you've said you werent taking on customers yet, but I would really like to know how much it would cost for you to do all this to my stock SX. I am a beginner, and all this talk of these going to students makes me jealous. I'm still learning and I want to make sure any errors in the sound/playing is because of me, not my instrument. lol.
What would your thoughts be on giving a stock bass an Chungering in the near future? (or anyone's for that matter).

I guess I shouldn't speak too much for the man, but I think Chung is just a little hesitant to work on others' instruments because he would feel terrible if he mucked it up. It's one thing to ruin your own SX that you bought to tinker with, but with someone else's instrument on the line, you have the potential to hurt feelings, make people mad, feel like you failed someone else, etc. etc. And if he's not 100% satisfied with the reliability of his methods, that makes it even harder to feel good about doing it.
 
Send it. . . your P/J should be pretty straight forward if it's stock. I've been telling people who contact me a couple of disclaimers:

1. I do NOT work out of a fully equipped shop and there is a chance I can muck up your instrument beyond my abilities to repair it or for that matter beyond anyone's ability to repair. There are those who would (rightfully) call my current hand-drill methods improper and highly risky.

2. If I destroy your instrument, my only recourse will be to send your broken bass back to you. I will of course, not charge in this scenario for any "work" performed.

3. At this point in time, I'm not working on URSA's. . . a self-imposed embargo and an attempt to get Rondo Music to re-consider the hideous new headstock design.

I won't do any work unless you're 100% ok with this. This is also why I prefer to simply purchase the instruments I work on outright. . . that way, if I muck something up, nobody else is effected.

Is this your only instrument? If so, would you be more comfortable exchanging it for a finished build? I for one am way more comfortable with that arrangement. #5 (MIM Jazz) is available and #6 (blonde Ash P/J) potentially (a friend currently has dibs). I have no problem exchanging your bass for it's full retail value (including shipping) if it's in good condition.

If you're attached to your bass, here's how pricing breaks down currently if you're looking for "full treatment":

labor:
$100 level/crown frets
$50 copper shield and wire up (push/pull series/parallel)
$50 install neck inserts/shim neck if necessary
$30 Graphtech nut (only if stock nut is broken or if requested)

parts:
~$50 (strings, pots, wire, cap, copper foil, jack, wire, inserts, etc.)

pickups -- I won't publicly disclose Nordstrand's OEM pricing, but it is very worth your while. I'd recommend NP4 and NJ4SE for the P/J.

I wanted to get through #7 before taking on any "outside" work and it's close now. Since Dallas852 is the type of person I originally intended this project to help, I'm interested in getting him set up. . . see how it goes.

Ok, I dont know if it is just me, but I've been subscribed to this thread for a long time. I own a stock SX and its killing my paranoia to see you "fixing" these basses. Every time I play mine I wonder "does this need to be Chungerfied". I stare at the neck pocket wondering if it is messed up, I stare at the strings over the pickups thinking they are misaligned. (sigh). I LOVE this thread, but its making me wonder if any bass is set up enough to play "correctly".
I know you've said you werent taking on customers yet, but I would really like to know how much it would cost for you to do all this to my stock SX. I am a beginner, and all this talk of these going to students makes me jealous. I'm still learning and I want to make sure any errors in the sound/playing is because of me, not my instrument. lol.
What would your thoughts be on giving a stock bass an Chungering in the near future? (or anyone's for that matter).
 
In regards to drilling the neck:
It might be beneficial for some of you to either got to a local machine shop, cabient shop or high school and have the 4 holes drilled in a drill press. These machines will drill perpendicular to the finger board and have a drill bit depth stop to avoid the dreaded drill through.
Or, you could drop somewhere's close to $100 for a little Craftsman benchtop unit if you have future drilling needs.
I have a Delta from the early 60's that weighs a ton and will outlast us all.
 
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