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BEAD

You're right, it is .132 and it makes it okay up to the threaded part near the butt. I've thought of removing the threading... can't see what difference that would make.:hmm:

Just get rid of the silk. It's common practice to remove it from the B-string in a Chromes set anyway.

As for your previous question on the tightest B-string...tension-wise, all three basses will be exactly the same. For tonality, I find that a bridge pickup is vital to the "tightness" of a B-string.
 
Just get rid of the silk. It's common practice to remove it from the B-string in a Chromes set anyway.

As for your previous question on the tightest B-string...tension-wise, all three basses will be exactly the same. For tonality, I find that a bridge pickup is vital to the "tightness" of a B-string.

Thanks FMB. I was thinking of doing just that and trying to imagine the downside. Tonight I'll convert the CIJ!
 
Not sure if this will help, but I also play in BEAD. Instead of using 5 strings set on a 4 string bass (which might risk damaging the neck, from what I read in this forum), I used the DR-DDT125. I think the normal 5 string B string is 130, so it's a little thinner. But honestly, I think it does the job just fine; unless you require extreme tension when you play.

I have my F-series ESP in BEAD setting using the DR-DDT125. The strings were so thick that I actually need to sand the nut a little bit to fit the strings. I would assume that's going into a path of no return - but I think that's fine, since it sounds pretty good.
 
Not sure if this will help, but I also play in BEAD. Instead of using 5 strings set on a 4 string bass (which might risk damaging the neck, from what I read in this forum), I used the DR-DDT125. I think the normal 5 string B string is 130, so it's a little thinner. But honestly, I think it does the job just fine; unless you require extreme tension when you play.

I have my F-series ESP in BEAD setting using the DR-DDT125. The strings were so thick that I actually need to sand the nut a little bit to fit the strings. I would assume that's going into a path of no return - but I think that's fine, since it sounds pretty good.

There's no reason that using the bottom 4 strings of a 5-string set for BEAD would damage your neck. Those strings are INTENDED to be tuned that way, with or without the G-string.
 
CamiloDíaz;13145615 said:
I went BEAD a couple of months ago, but tok the DR DDT way. Turns out, I lliked this BEAD thing so much, that I'm willing to go full .130 B string, preferably flat (huge fan). The only question that remains is to know what OP asked: if I file my nut, would it be able to go EADG if needed?

I tried EADG on my BEAD-converted bass. It worked fine. I filed the nut in perfect U-shapes, so the strings automatically find their way to the center of the slots. The tension keeps them there. I'm so used to BEAD now, that I don't want to go back. Those few higher notes I play can be found on the D-string up to the twelfth fret.

If you prefer flats, try Ernie Ball. I can buy them here as singles. Their 0.130 B is worth the money. For a flatwound it produces a lot of harmonics. The other strings I use are also EB's: 0.105, 0.080 and 0.060". This produces fairly even tension across the board. The B 'pulls' 48 pounds, while E, A and D do some 50 pounds.
 
Oh yeah. The B string sits sort of on top of the nut, but I don't want to file it just yet. Removing the silk did the trick as far as getting the string thru the bridge.

Also, I'm pleasantly surprised that the B string is not floppy.
 
There's no reason that using the bottom 4 strings of a 5-string set for BEAD would damage your neck. Those strings are INTENDED to be tuned that way, with or without the G-string.

I meant to use a 130 B string on the E string slot of a 4 string bass (Putting BEAD strings on EADG). That would widen the nut, and I assume there's no return once you go down that road. (Except changing the nut of course)
 
Jay2U is one of several people on TB who have said that you can go back to EADG after you have filed for BEAD without any issues. People use different gauges of strings on their EADG basses without issues yet the nut slot widths can only be right for a single set of gauges. So within reason there should not be an issue. At worst you might find that you need to use the heaviest gauge EADG strings you can find. At absolute worst, I hear that having a nut replaced is not terribly expensive.

Ken
 
bridge pickup is crucial to a punchy tight sounding low B IMHO, I've got a project bass of mine strung BEAD and it only has 1 pickup, an EMG MM pickup, for EADG it was in the neck position and sounded fine, chunky, kinda Pbass ish. For BEAD it didn't sound very tight so I moved it tothe bridge route and the bass is now monstrous, HUGE full deep tones and tight to boot
 
bridge pickup is crucial to a punchy tight sounding low B IMHO, I've got a project bass of mine strung BEAD and it only has 1 pickup, an EMG MM pickup, for EADG it was in the neck position and sounded fine, chunky, kinda Pbass ish. For BEAD it didn't sound very tight so I moved it tothe bridge route and the bass is now monstrous, HUGE full deep tones and tight to boot

My bass has two humbuckers. Most of the time I'm using the one at the bridge. I also play the B-string quite close to the bridge, as it sounds and feels better to me.
 
Are the DDTs steel?

Where do you buy the EB singles?

Has anyone tried BEAD with half rounds?

Wouldn't it make some sense to use lighter gauges for BEAD, especially
With flats

Not necessarily. A lighter gauge is going to get you more fundamental and fewer overtones, but that's not necessarily the tone that some want with flats. Many just want a string that feels softer and doesn't impart as much noise when moving around on the fretboard.
 
Added bonus - bought a 5 string set of Chromes, only used the B string on my CIJ P Bass (which already had EADG Chromes on it) and now I have an extra, new set of EADG Chromes! (It was too hard for me to do the math on that in my head, had to see it to understand it.) Jury's still out on the sound.