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Behringer Effects

+1 for the BDI21 and its awesomeness
Seriously, for under $25, I don't see how you can not have one of these in your gig box simply as a life preserver.

lg_BDI21_P.jpg
 
Why abuse your Mastercard with the most expensive stuff you can find and then try to rationalize it later?

Believe me, there is no (0) justification for the prices of most expensive analog effects.

Not especially defending Behringer here, but in terms of what's on the PCBs, most higher-end effects are ridiculously overpriced.

I have a good friend who is of this mindset in most all of his hobbies.

He'll only buy best of what's available. I remember when he started scuba diving some 20+ years ago.

He bought THE BEST tanks, regulators, wet suits, flippers and mask he could find. Hell, the Navy Seals were jealous of his gear!

He used the gear MAYBE six times in all those years. Ultimately, everything pretty much dry-rotted and thousands of dollars of expensive equipment had been reduced to trash.

A VERY poor return on investment IMO. Effects are the same way......a 10 ohm resistor is a 10 ohm resistor. Doesn't matter if it's from the USA, China, Taiwan.......it's a 10 ohm resistor. There's no magic in them.....they're about as mature a product as you'll find. Your $1.00 resistor won't perform any better than my $.02 resistor.
 
I have a good friend who is of this mindset in most all of his hobbies.

He'll only buy best of what's available. I remember when he started scuba diving some 20+ years ago.

He bought THE BEST tanks, regulators, wet suits, flippers and mask he could find. Hell, the Navy Seals were jealous of his gear!

He used the gear MAYBE six times in all those years. Ultimately, everything pretty much dry-rotted and thousands of dollars of expensive equipment had been reduced to trash.

A VERY poor return on investment IMO. Effects are the same way.....
Sounds like your friend is a dilettante. I know a guy like that too. HE has all kinds of music gear but hasnt been in a band in years. He does however have about a dozen surfboards... and surfs literally every day. but, by all means, if you are just dallying in bass dont blow hundreds on gear until you are at least in a band and can justify it.
.a 10 ohm resistor is a 10 ohm resistor. Doesn't matter if it's from the USA, China, Taiwan.......it's a 10 ohm resistor. There's no magic in them.....they're about as mature a product as you'll find. Your $1.00 resistor won't perform any better than my $.02 resistor.

You are completely incorrect . There are different kinds of resistors. Metal film, carbon comp 1%, 5%, 10% and so on. Same for capacitors. One cheap capacitor wont ruin the tone of your gear, but pull out all the panasonic FC's in a good peice of gear and replace them with chinese 2 cent ones and it will be audibly worse for the exercise. This is not news. Folks that build audio circuits know a tantalum sounds different than a polystryene cap. A cheap cap (with its accompanying wider toerlance) sounds not as good as a quality cap. Behringer uses almost all surface mount stuff, which in theory is more repeatable and accurate. But also much harder to repair. But be sure they aren't putting 1% resistors and panasonic caps in their gear.
I doubt you will find any 10 ohm resistors though.
 
(...) Effects are the same way......a 10 ohm resistor is a 10 ohm resistor. Doesn't matter if it's from the USA, China, Taiwan.......

I agree, from the performance viewpoint, the place where it was made makes no difference.

(...) Your $1.00 resistor won't perform any better than my $.02 resistor.

I disagree. It is not necessarily true that an expensive component sounds better than a cheap one but almost certainly it will perform better.

Expansive electrolytic capacitors have an internal resistance that it is substantially lower than cheaper ones. They lifespan is longer and they are more linear.

I don’t think you are totally wrong though. Above a certain threshold, the difference in price is not audible. Cheap resistors are noisier but a $0.1 is not necessarily worse than a $1 resistor.

Regarding Behringer, I must admit that as a bass player I had some not entirely happy experiences. Having said that, I respect Behringer. They are at the opposite end of what [sfx] does but I think they offer a good service to the musician community. I recommended their products to some of my customers that where on a tight budget and it worked for them.
 
Why everything that start as a Behringer thread somehow becomes a tired discussion (an sometimes flamewar) about "cheap vs boutique"? To each his own. The OP was looking for reviews about some B. pedals. That's it. Why a boutique user would even care to get into the thread and "illuminate" us, the cheap bastards, is beyond me.

I have tried B. pedals. I liked them. Deal with it.
 
I also own a trem, and it is okay, but I find the range of the dials not to my liking. Also, i own a flanger which I really don't care for, soundwise.

One thing that annoys me about these pedals is that they come in a blisterpack, like a damn GI Joe or something. It just screams "toy" to me. On the other hand, that does not affect the actual pedal in the least, and yes I realise it's not important at all. At all. Just annoys me is all.
 
I agree, from the performance viewpoint, the place where it was made makes no difference.

I disagree. It is not necessarily true that an expensive component sounds better than a cheap one but almost certainly it will perform better.

Expansive electrolytic capacitors have an internal resistance that it is substantially lower than cheaper ones. They lifespan is longer and they are more linear.

I don’t think you are totally wrong though. Above a certain threshold, the difference in price is not audible. Cheap resistors are noisier but a $0.1 is not necessarily worse than a $1 resistor.

Well, electrolytic caps are used for specific purposes. You wouldn't use one when the same job could be accomplished with a mylar cap.

I was speaking in generalities in terms of component construction and application. You can compare like componenets, whether they be carbon film resistors, metal film capacitors, etc, etc.........within their relative categories and specifications, there really is NO difference between them as a group. A 1% toleranced resistor/capacitor, etc.......is going to be a 1% toleranced resistor/capacitor no matter who the vendor, no matter what the material, regardless of cost.

As a manufacturer, you need take all of this into account in the design phase and decide which components are critical to your design needs and purchase accordingly.
 
CamiloDíaz;9014526 said:
Why everything that start as a Behringer thread somehow becomes a tired discussion (an sometimes flamewar) about "cheap vs boutique"? To each his own. The OP was looking for reviews about some B. pedals. That's it. Why a boutique user would even care to get into the thread and "illuminate" us, the cheap bastards, is beyond me.

I have tried B. pedals. I liked them. Deal with it.

I saw some folks post who had used Behringer products, they didn't work for them, and said so. Nothing wrong with that. If the Behringer stuff works for you, great, but if someone had a bad experience and shares it, that's just fine as well. If they choose to make a recommendation based upon their experience with Behringer pedals that was less than optimal, that's fine as well.

I haven't used the Behringer pedals myself, so I'm not going to comment about them. I've had first hand experience with some of their products that I'm not going to go into since they're not pedals, and can relate anecdotal evidence from friends who've used their products as well. But I'm not going to pile on in this thread about those either, since they weren't pedals. If the OP asks, I'll respond when I get back from All-State Chorus.
 
Well, electrolytic caps are used for specific purposes. You wouldn't use one when the same job could be accomplished with a mylar cap.(...)

True.

But equally, sometimes I have to use a specific type of electrolytic capacitor instead of another (same value/tolerance) because the ESR is lower or the lifespan is longer. These components cost more.

(...) within their relative categories and specifications, there really is NO difference between them as a group. A 1% toleranced resistor/capacitor, etc.......is going to be a 1% toleranced resistor/capacitor no matter who the vendor, no matter what the material, regardless of cost. (...)

I believe the crucial word is “specifications”. Value and tolerance are the main parameters and, in my opinion, they are enough for a first design. If the target is devices that perform well above average all available parameters need to be taken into account. Even size and the relative distance between components can have an impact.

In my experience, if all elements are taken into account, very rarely two components with the same value and tolerance perform in the same way.
 
True.

But equally, sometimes I have to use a specific type of electrolytic capacitor instead of another (same value/tolerance) because the ESR is lower or the lifespan is longer. These components cost more.



I believe the crucial word is “specifications”. Value and tolerance are the main parameters and, in my opinion, they are enough for a first design. If the target is devices that perform well above average all available parameters need to be taken into account. Even size and the relative distance between components can have an impact.

In my experience, if all elements are taken into account, very rarely two components with the same value and tolerance perform in the same way.


^ More Gospel! No disputing this! :D

There are SO many factors that effect the individual components that, as you stated, "very rarely two components with the same value and tolerance perform in the same way" that even in the final design, you can only rely on components operating somewhere within the range of their specified parameters.

Basically, it really comes down to this.......the most expensive is not necessarily better and conversely, the least expensive is not necessarily bad. Especially with modern manufacturing processes and techniques.
 
i had it, not for long though. the reverse mode is cool to play with, and i think it goes 100% wet, but not entirely sure. mine hissed something chronic so i had to take it back to the shop.

Did you use it for guitar or bass? I'm only really interested in throwing some psychedelic instant hendrix... might do better to keep saving for a used boss then...
 
CamiloDíaz;9014526 said:
Why everything that start as a Behringer thread somehow becomes a tired discussion (an sometimes flamewar) about "cheap vs boutique"? To each his own. The OP was looking for reviews about some B. pedals. That's it. Why a boutique user would even care to get into the thread and "illuminate" us, the cheap bastards, is beyond me.

I have tried B. pedals. I liked them. Deal with it.

I wasnt talking about boutique. If you think electro harmonix is boutique I wonder what you think about fulltone?

I have to wonder about the ears/hands on you guys that can't tell the difference between a cheesy knock off (Essex, Behringer) and the real thing (Fender, Stingray, EHX, Proco).
If you guys think Behringer gear is great, good for you. Just dont come posting a thread about how to keep your pedal board from failing on gigs!
My approach to bass is similar to how I approach my tools. Buy the right tool once. Take care of the tool and it will take care of you. Sure a cheap import tool at Kragen might get the job done a few times before the finish flakes off and the wrench snaps on you. Ever bust a knuckle tightening a bolt on a water pump? Ouch, to be avoided!
 

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