MIMs go used for around 300. I'm quite satisfied with mine. I've also been quite impressed with Squier VMs though, the VM jazz is quite impressive and I'm considering buying one myself.
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Best bass for 300$
- Thread starter Drubio8119
- Start date
crystalman85 its not that i like fender style it is just they are within my budgetbut seems nice but i am getting my money from a reimbursement so i kind of have to use it GC :/ anything from their in the 300$ range you would suggest? :O
and samc2527 why do you like your epi thunderbird? :O
There are other bass guitars to check out on rondo music. I have purchased a douglas bass from that website and it pretty good sound quality. also it would be easy to suggest Ibanez soundgear basses especially since Ibanez makes bass guitars at that price range. another bass I would suggest at that price range would be dean edge basses. there's a passive version called the dean edge 1 4-string bass and there's an active version called the dean edge 4 4-string bass. I've owned a dean edge bass once and it sounded pretty good. like the Ibanez soundgear basses, the dean edge basses are suitable for any genre.
These are dipping to $300 recently. ITs a lot of bass for $300.
http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend...amondP-Custom-Electric-Bass-Guitar?sku=584544
http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend...amondP-Custom-Electric-Bass-Guitar?sku=584544
hmmm actually i saw a schecter raiden 4 but it has never been reviewed :/ anybody have any views oon schecter basses?
I'd suggest against the Thunderbird unless you like a dark, muddy, and often undefined tone. Go for any CV Squier.
A [DEL]quick[/DEL] [DEL]few[/DEL] [DEL]couple[/DEL] [DEL]bunch of words:[/DEL] short book:
Buy new for the warranty and pleasure of first-ownership.
But buy the bass and don't change anything but the strings ----------- maybe.
Leave the 'pots' alone as they will serve very well unless you hang your coat from them or use your bass as a weapon in a bar fight.
I don't understand the reason for ripping out perfectly serviceable parts and just nonchalantly shoving money down a hole and pieces and parts into a new bass.
A potentiometer is a potentiometer (pot) and unless you want to dabble in various resistance values in them there is nothing to be gained by putting 'better' ones in it at all.
You turn it and if it works - it works.
As far as p'ups: The Jaguar has some seriously hot pickups and the rest of the electronics will be just fine. I even appreciate the stock Fender 7250 NPS strings on my Jaguar, as on this bass they really work out well.
The P/J p'up combination on the Jaguar is nice since you can dial in a lot more tones and voicing with the two very different and yet blend-able systems on the same bass.
Buy it - play it - enjoy it.
If after a few months or years you find you need to replace a broken or 'going bad' part - that's the time to do it.
Don't fall prey to the heavy-mass bridge fanbois and adding lots of things that won't really improve anything - but make the aftermarket parts manufacturers happy and the stores gleeful when you pay for them.
You should really wait to form your own opinions (and prejudices) after experiencing the bass for a while - but be suspicious about phrases like 'tone woods' and 'body resonances' since they don't exist at all (except for wishful thinking during a full moon in MY and many other's opinions).
I guess once one has poured money into a bass with high-ended parts and such, then one must defend that somehow - but you need to make your own decision. I feel you need time to get to know your bass before you want to modify things.
F'rinstance: I've got pots and switches on my oldest bass that is over 13 years old (on a very low budget and badly maligned bass) - my Squier Affinity Precision that came in one of the 'You Can Play Bass' packs from Fender. It's a great bass and in spite of my abuse and even for the amount of time it's been in existence, it only really needed new pickups as they went low volume and were slowly dying on me. That's when I replaced them - not before or just for bragging rights.
It's up to you - but I wouldn't buy a bass unless it talked to me and sang well - and that's what you need to do. Do NOT buy anything over the internet unless you can actually play it for yourself in a controlled situation first.
That means: 'you control the situation, not the seller'.
So many times I read of persons who buy something over the internet and while it's in transit, they post here saying they are going to rip the pots, pups, bridge, strings, tuners and electronics out, change to a Hi-Mass bridge and generally 'fix' it when it arrives.
What's left ---- the paint?
What they're saying is that they are going to strip it and rebuild the whole bass. I guess it's the kinda process one can expect when one buys something bought over the internet.
It must be very scary buying something that way (over the internet) and it sure seems to me that there are a lot of people who have bought an untried and untested bass and HAD to do that after they were committed to it.
Read a few of the posts here on TB when people announce they just 'won' something off EBay or Craig's List, then they start talking how they are gonna fix it immediately even before it arrives.
What's that all about? Nuts I think.
Go to the store. Sit down and play the bass of your choice. Play ALL the basses in the store.
It will be a learning experience, you betchum!
If I were starting all over and had youth on my side, you can bet that I'd buy either in the VM or CV Squier line. They are all excellent and I only suggest that you pick one after playing it in the store.
Several reasons come to mind:
1) It has 'The Fender Look" and is readily accepted in most non-gear whore circles. It's iconic.
2) Parts (when needed) are available and they are pretty much interchangeable from ancient Fender/Squier years and up to this date. Availability is good and almost always in stock at any store.
3) You don't EVER have to make any concessions to any gear snobs for not playing a really great bass; most of them are somewhat jealous for you getting something at 1/3-1/10th what they paid- and can smoke their bass- for playability and tone.
4) Fender is the industry standard for all basses (sorry, boutique guys). That means the length, shape and size. For instance: a 'Standard length' string fits a Fender - and all others either are the same or denoted as longer or shorter from that standard size.
Buy new for the warranty and pleasure of first-ownership.
But buy the bass and don't change anything but the strings ----------- maybe.
Leave the 'pots' alone as they will serve very well unless you hang your coat from them or use your bass as a weapon in a bar fight.
I don't understand the reason for ripping out perfectly serviceable parts and just nonchalantly shoving money down a hole and pieces and parts into a new bass.
A potentiometer is a potentiometer (pot) and unless you want to dabble in various resistance values in them there is nothing to be gained by putting 'better' ones in it at all.
You turn it and if it works - it works.
As far as p'ups: The Jaguar has some seriously hot pickups and the rest of the electronics will be just fine. I even appreciate the stock Fender 7250 NPS strings on my Jaguar, as on this bass they really work out well.
The P/J p'up combination on the Jaguar is nice since you can dial in a lot more tones and voicing with the two very different and yet blend-able systems on the same bass.
Buy it - play it - enjoy it.
If after a few months or years you find you need to replace a broken or 'going bad' part - that's the time to do it.
Don't fall prey to the heavy-mass bridge fanbois and adding lots of things that won't really improve anything - but make the aftermarket parts manufacturers happy and the stores gleeful when you pay for them.
You should really wait to form your own opinions (and prejudices) after experiencing the bass for a while - but be suspicious about phrases like 'tone woods' and 'body resonances' since they don't exist at all (except for wishful thinking during a full moon in MY and many other's opinions).
I guess once one has poured money into a bass with high-ended parts and such, then one must defend that somehow - but you need to make your own decision. I feel you need time to get to know your bass before you want to modify things.
F'rinstance: I've got pots and switches on my oldest bass that is over 13 years old (on a very low budget and badly maligned bass) - my Squier Affinity Precision that came in one of the 'You Can Play Bass' packs from Fender. It's a great bass and in spite of my abuse and even for the amount of time it's been in existence, it only really needed new pickups as they went low volume and were slowly dying on me. That's when I replaced them - not before or just for bragging rights.
It's up to you - but I wouldn't buy a bass unless it talked to me and sang well - and that's what you need to do. Do NOT buy anything over the internet unless you can actually play it for yourself in a controlled situation first.
That means: 'you control the situation, not the seller'.
So many times I read of persons who buy something over the internet and while it's in transit, they post here saying they are going to rip the pots, pups, bridge, strings, tuners and electronics out, change to a Hi-Mass bridge and generally 'fix' it when it arrives.
What's left ---- the paint?
What they're saying is that they are going to strip it and rebuild the whole bass. I guess it's the kinda process one can expect when one buys something bought over the internet.
It must be very scary buying something that way (over the internet) and it sure seems to me that there are a lot of people who have bought an untried and untested bass and HAD to do that after they were committed to it.
Read a few of the posts here on TB when people announce they just 'won' something off EBay or Craig's List, then they start talking how they are gonna fix it immediately even before it arrives.
What's that all about? Nuts I think.
Go to the store. Sit down and play the bass of your choice. Play ALL the basses in the store.
It will be a learning experience, you betchum!
If I were starting all over and had youth on my side, you can bet that I'd buy either in the VM or CV Squier line. They are all excellent and I only suggest that you pick one after playing it in the store.
Several reasons come to mind:
1) It has 'The Fender Look" and is readily accepted in most non-gear whore circles. It's iconic.
2) Parts (when needed) are available and they are pretty much interchangeable from ancient Fender/Squier years and up to this date. Availability is good and almost always in stock at any store.
3) You don't EVER have to make any concessions to any gear snobs for not playing a really great bass; most of them are somewhat jealous for you getting something at 1/3-1/10th what they paid- and can smoke their bass- for playability and tone.
4) Fender is the industry standard for all basses (sorry, boutique guys). That means the length, shape and size. For instance: a 'Standard length' string fits a Fender - and all others either are the same or denoted as longer or shorter from that standard size.
surfer joe you make alot of posts on here and i enjoy reading them. ir espect you alot. your post made me lol a bit and is true about changing the parts. all im doing on ym fender currently is switching strings to flatwounds and straightening the neck out since it is warped and you have increased me wanting to lean more towards the jaguar. thank you 
i wasnt sure if the p'ups blended well and if i can get good versatility out of it but im glad i can i just want a bass apart from my current jazz adn the jaguar seems nice. thanks everyone else for your input and right now im digging the jaguar and if not then a vm p bass
i wasnt sure if the p'ups blended well and if i can get good versatility out of it but im glad i can i just want a bass apart from my current jazz adn the jaguar seems nice. thanks everyone else for your input and right now im digging the jaguar and if not then a vm p bass 
The Warwick shown looks like the 2010 model which has been getting really good reviews here on TB. If you do a Music 123 price match that should knok it down into the $300 range which is within your budget and should give the VM Jazz a real good run for it's money (full disclosure I own a VM J and an older Rock bass). If the VM J had a good neck and low action it would be the clear winner. The VM J series are great basses... however the necks seem to be the weak link on these basses. I can attest to this and there have been several threads on this here as well. If it were me I'd based on what I now know Ildchoose the Warwick.
Well, first of all, there are hundreds of times more basses available online than there are in local shops. I can count probably half a dozen basses at least I'm interested in that aren't available at any stores near me.
Also, some complete basses are cheaper than buying a seperate body and neck. So if your goal is to build a custom bass, then it can often be cheaper to buy, say, a Squier or Ibanez bass and modify it with the parts they want than it would be to buy a body and neck and then add hardware/electronics.
Personally I feel the liabilities far outweigh the benefits when you buy off the internet, new or used. I will stand firmly on the premise that holding and actually playing the bass you'd like to buy first is the only way to get what you want and not have to mod it to get it up to snuff once it arrives.
'I just bought a 1942 Snarkoo 5-string bass from a seller in Eastern Slobbovia, but the wind-up knob for the pre-amp is missing and the neck is bent and the tone wood isn't, and all three frets are falling off and the tuners came from a Iranian banjo and the strings are make out of yak guts' --- sortta thing.
I'll say that so many times or I see what I proffered as the actual circumstances when someone buys a bass from GC/MF/CL/Ebay and whatever and they start off with something that goes like this:
"I just bought/won/ordered a new/used bass from 'X' and I ordered/already own some new/used tuners/bridges/pickups/ quarter pounders/Lace/Duncan ----------(etc, etc.), and I'm gonna put them on an' make this bass a real screamer/funk /slapper/metal-machine." Ugh!
What's with that anyway!?!
Know what I mean here? Have you ever seen pretty much that same scene as I've stated it? I think so.
I can prolly go back a few months and bring up so many C/Ps of that exact dialog that it would scroll for days and make this the longest post I ever made. (and I've made some long ones).
There are situations when someone truly wants to Frankenstein a bass just for kicks and that sounds like fun and educational too - but the other end of the equation is that every n00b that reads some of those sex-change posts (to a bass, not necessarily the bass PLAYER) would assume that all basses are defective or sorely lacking in things that would even allow them to be playable.
T'aint so. I don't think you can actually buy a bad - A TOTALLY BAD BASS - that it won't play decently in the first place.
However, the odds against getting one that can be played easily or well over the internet severely diminishes your chances of getting a great one.
It can happen since people also die every day and most of them for the first time too - but I figger the odds are leaning toward the house, not the buyer of the bass.
If you want bling and sparkle - that's more forgivable to me than just tearing a bass apart and stuffing all that changeover gear into it.
I put chrome rims and big tires on my K5, but I tend to leave my instruments alone since I buy them for what they are, not what I can turn them into.
All the foregoing is my opinion however.
I also am not on a hunt for the Lost Ark of Tone or bragging rights in a micturition contest.
I will also read for my education, the things that are done in the name of scientific experimentation to a bass to see if I can glean some insight to what makes a bass, er - tick.
Don't get me wrong, I agree with the "you need to be able to play before you pay".
Take for example the Squier Vintage Modified Series Jazz Bass (the maple one, not the 77 one). I have played like 6 of these. They've ranged from "crap I'd never buy" to "one of the best basses I've played". The fact that any bass can vary this widely in playability is one big reason why I feel I need to try a bass before I can justify buying it.
Another example: I was convinced that the Ibanez SR500 and SR700 basses were crap because I had played 2 of each and I didn't like any of them. Then one day I picked up an SR500 at a GC (the same GC where I had played a bad one) and the thing practically played itself!
But the problem is, none of the stores in my area carry 80s Ibanez basses, or 5-string P basses, or SR Prestige basses, or any basses over $1500 really. There are some things I simply cannot try in person without traveling very far away from home, which really isn't worth it. There are just some basses I can only get online.
Take for example the Squier Vintage Modified Series Jazz Bass (the maple one, not the 77 one). I have played like 6 of these. They've ranged from "crap I'd never buy" to "one of the best basses I've played". The fact that any bass can vary this widely in playability is one big reason why I feel I need to try a bass before I can justify buying it.
Another example: I was convinced that the Ibanez SR500 and SR700 basses were crap because I had played 2 of each and I didn't like any of them. Then one day I picked up an SR500 at a GC (the same GC where I had played a bad one) and the thing practically played itself!
But the problem is, none of the stores in my area carry 80s Ibanez basses, or 5-string P basses, or SR Prestige basses, or any basses over $1500 really. There are some things I simply cannot try in person without traveling very far away from home, which really isn't worth it. There are just some basses I can only get online.
I know Beaverton isn't on the trade routes and can commiserate with you, even though I am only 57 miles away from my fav: GC.
There are circumstances and there are extenuating circumstances.
Perhaps my biggest and possibly most outlandish statement is to follow:
'I don't buy used instruments' (any more).
I really don't - just for the reason that I don't actually feel that it is 'mine' once someone else had it. That may sound odd to some - maybe most people here - but I really don't want to own something that was previously owned.
I tried it once with a LP Special that was one of the strongest sustaining and deep DEEP chocolate-y sounding basses I ever had in my possession.
I flipped it fast though for a new Deluxe Jazz. I loved it (the LP) but I couldn't keep it.
AND --- it ain't germs or some psychic-karmic thing - I just want me to be the first and sole owner. I also like the new warranty (and that new smell, like a new car).
As far as I'm concerned, a "new" bass on the wall at GC that's been played by a few dozen people is as "used" as a bass that was previously owned.
If I cared about being the first and only owner, I'd probably care about being the first and only player, but that'd require me buying it in box and therefore I wouldn't have been able to play it beforehand to see if I wanted it in the first place...
If I cared about being the first and only owner, I'd probably care about being the first and only player, but that'd require me buying it in box and therefore I wouldn't have been able to play it beforehand to see if I wanted it in the first place...
Er - not TOTALLY true though. I can almost guarantee that there are no beers or cigarette smoke (or worse kind-a smoke) on it nor baby spit, cookie or fried chicken grease in the strings or spray Pledge or Armour-All on it if it's hangin' in GC..
I got my VM-Jag outta the box at GC as the first human to see it once it was shipped from Indonesia Land. Also I am not quite anal-enough to worry about grubby hands on my next bass unless they put scratches on it!
Usually I find the upper-hook basses and especially the MiM ones are pretty much orphans and don't have a half-inch of kiddie grease on them anyway.
AND - it also makes a valid argument for new strings to be installed before it leaves if I buy it.
There are pros and cons each way - and some of them aren't a deal killer - but over the internet is just dangerous, especially for used gear from a privateer and therefor I choose to not go there.
I got my VM-Jag outta the box at GC as the first human to see it once it was shipped from Indonesia Land. Also I am not quite anal-enough to worry about grubby hands on my next bass unless they put scratches on it!
Usually I find the upper-hook basses and especially the MiM ones are pretty much orphans and don't have a half-inch of kiddie grease on them anyway.
AND - it also makes a valid argument for new strings to be installed before it leaves if I buy it.
There are pros and cons each way - and some of them aren't a deal killer - but over the internet is just dangerous, especially for used gear from a privateer and therefor I choose to not go there.
i would also have to disagree with some of te stuff your saying joe. while you prefer buying new, because u would rather be the only owner, i don't think its fair to tell people "DO NOT buy online." i've bought new and used online. a new carvin and a 72, highly modified P bass. and i mean modified, everything with the exception of the tuners was changed, even the finger board. i took a risk, yes, but i bought a bass that will out play a lot of fretless basses, and for only 600 bucks.
my brother bought half of his rig, an iby prestige 7 string, and a PRS arch top semi hollow from ebay as well. there are good deals to be had online, if you look ad wait.
for someone who is on a budget, or just starting out. i always say buy used. you can get twice he bass for half the money. and if you don't plan on it being your only bass ever, you don't loose on the depriciation value from buying new.
i'd much rather buy a $700 bass for 300, then a $150 bass for the same price.
now about the mods, yes i would rather keep it stock if possible, but i also see the benifit of buying something like an SX bass, and gutting it, over buying a warmoth body.
OP its just something to think about. i would go to GC look at something a little above my budget, if you like it, check it out on ebay. buy the best you can afford, and you won't need to spend your money twice.
my brother bought half of his rig, an iby prestige 7 string, and a PRS arch top semi hollow from ebay as well. there are good deals to be had online, if you look ad wait.
for someone who is on a budget, or just starting out. i always say buy used. you can get twice he bass for half the money. and if you don't plan on it being your only bass ever, you don't loose on the depriciation value from buying new.
i'd much rather buy a $700 bass for 300, then a $150 bass for the same price.
now about the mods, yes i would rather keep it stock if possible, but i also see the benifit of buying something like an SX bass, and gutting it, over buying a warmoth body.
OP its just something to think about. i would go to GC look at something a little above my budget, if you like it, check it out on ebay. buy the best you can afford, and you won't need to spend your money twice.
Ya know - I agree with your disagreement.
I see your point, but I felt that under the circumstances of the OP's opening statement that he is somewhat n00bish and he should get a lot of good breaks by buying new for what I originally retorted and for what I feel is a basic and unspoken reason - which I will now say.
IF he buys new - he has a 30-day grace period to return anything to GC and I also believe MF too, as they are the same store really - and that could be the best deal going for someone who is confused by jargon and technicalities as he stated.
I also believe that this 30-day grace period is for internet sales too - so all isn't lost and my sensitivities are to keeping him out of the mud and away from the rocks for a while until he gets his water wings.
I will state however, that buying via internet and from a privateer is risky - as not all the people out there (unlike the TB guys) can be trusted, and some are flat-out devious.
A little pain in a bad transaction could spell the difference between a burned-out potential bass player versus one who has a bass they can actually play and not need yards of money to get it to play a note or two.
Like any rule - there are exceptions and this might be one where I would bend a little if I wuz in his shoes.
I would, however, make every effort to play a bass first, especially a bass that is his first or second purchase and not run the risk of early-on dismay and loss of another potential great bassist.
If you buy from CL - bring a couple of knuckle-draggin' knee breakers with you for security and insist on a one-on-one trade at a neutral turf.
There are a lot of scams and downright strong arm robberies taking place right now - currently - and the CL scammers can be evil and they are taking advantage of the season and the desires of people who want a good deal.
'Tis the season to be wicked, especially with the major expenses coming up and everything.
Be ye very wary!
The preceding may not be true in Chicago, New York City or Beaverton. Use one's own discretion.
There are a lot of scams and downright strong arm robberies taking place right now - currently - and the CL scammers can be evil and they are taking advantage of the season and the desires of people who want a good deal.
'Tis the season to be wicked, especially with the major expenses coming up and everything.
Be ye very wary!
The preceding may not be true in Chicago, New York City or Beaverton. Use one's own discretion.
