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Best instrument cable?

N. Kentucky Bass

N. Kentucky Bass

Supporting Member
May 10, 2006
8,103
8,362
Northern Kentucky
sites.google.com
#1
Looking to tap into group wisdom on a good instrument cable. I used to buy "high end" cables handmade by a guy in the midwest. They seemed good, but what do I know? A producer I just recorded for said there were some misc. "clicks" in my last track that he'd prefer to not be there. I've double checked everything physical and software-based in the chain with the exception of my instrument cable. Time to buy a new one so what do you thoroughbreds recommend for recording? No hundred dollar cables, please! I'm just a regular bass player! Thanks.
 
#2
N. Kentucky Bass said:
Looking to tap into group wisdom on a good instrument cable. I used to buy "high end" cables handmade by a guy in the midwest. They seemed good, but what do I know? A producer I just recorded for said there were some misc. "clicks" in my last track that he'd prefer to not be there. I've double checked everything physical and software-based in the chain with the exception of my instrument cable. Time to buy a new one so what do you thoroughbreds recommend for recording? No hundred dollar cables, please! I'm just a regular bass player! Thanks.
Click to expand...
This would be better served in the “Accesories” forum.
 
#4
N. Kentucky Bass said:
A producer I just recorded for said there were some misc. "clicks" in my last track that he'd prefer to not be there.
Click to expand...

"Clicks" aren't likely to come from your cable unless there is a problem with the plug or the jack at either end.

My favorite cable is the George L that I bought 25 or so years ago, because it still works. But that doesn't mean I won't pick up and use any of the (many) other cables I have lying around. Most any reasonably-priced cable is good enough for me.
 
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#5
I’ve been very pleased with the quality and construction of ProCo cables I’ve purchased through Sweetwater. Neutrik connectors, quality cables, I’ve not had one fail. Reasonably priced and reliable.

I’ve had a moderately pricey Mogami cable fail, and I tried some GHS Audio cables that were supposed to have lower capacitance than most, but there was absolutely no auditory difference, and one of the two GHS cables failed with about a year of regular use (plugged/unplugged for band practice every week or two, used most other days; it never even made it to a gig). By “failed”, I mean, intermittent signal loss/drop out that responded to adjusting the position of the cable in the connector. And it was the cable between my pedalboard and amp, not the one that I plug into my bass and move around a lot.
 
#6
I'm wireless 99% of the time, but when I've needed cables, whether XLR or instrument, I've been getting them from the seller World's Best Cables on Amazon. They use top quality components and are reasonably priced.

WORLDS BEST CABLES
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
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#8
I've never noticed any sound quality differences between cables. I do like rugged ones that are braided. I have a friend who works for Runway Audio, and I have used some of their stuff. It's very rugged and seems to be high quality. But in all honesty, it doesn't sound any different to me than my cheap Fender curly cable I use quite a bit. I also have a Mogami cable in my practice space I use every day. Again, no real difference in sound.
 
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#9
Japanese. Mogami or my favorite, Canare. My first set of Canare cables I bought 38 years ago, still noiseless, still getting gigged every week. I bought some backups in the 90s figuring the first ones had to go sooner or later. Waste of money as it turns out. These cables will outlive me.
 
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#12
crd said:
It seems very unlikely those clicks came from your cable.
Click to expand...

Yeah, they're more likely caused by repetitive root-five statements throughout the song, which is a stretch for my small hands. Some minor rattles when hitting the fifth over and over probably triggered related clicks. But nevertheless, I'm checking all the boxes and making sure. A few years ago I did have an instrument cable cause crackling because the dogs were trampling it in my home studio. Replaced it and voila, clean tone! The dogs, of course, denied everything and still insisted on getting their biscuits!
 
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#13
N. Kentucky Bass said:
Looking to tap into group wisdom on a good instrument cable. I used to buy "high end" cables handmade by a guy in the midwest. They seemed good, but what do I know? A producer I just recorded for said there were some misc. "clicks" in my last track that he'd prefer to not be there. I've double checked everything physical and software-based in the chain with the exception of my instrument cable. Time to buy a new one so what do you thoroughbreds recommend for recording? No hundred dollar cables, please! I'm just a regular bass player! Thanks.
Click to expand...

Did you record remotely? Comp the track? I’m guessing digital artifacts, but would need to hear the ‘click’.

ABM cable is best = Anything But Monster (or Planet Waves, or “high-end” directional bass enhancing snake oil BS)
 
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#14
The best one is one that works! Apart from that, I'm not fussy. If I have a "good" one then I'll use that over a "cheap" one. Of course even "good" cables fail. Typically, IME it is the plug that is the problem, not the actual cable itself. Replace the plug with a good one and the problem goes away. As far as brand is concerned. If people have good experience with brand X over brand Y then, of course Brand X is gonna win.
 
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#15
IMHO high end cables are mostly a waste of money. If you're spending more than $75 on a 10' 1/4" cable, you're probably wasting money. All of the capacitance stuff doesn't matter as soon as you turn to active electronics or a preamp. Get something decent, look for good stress relief on the jack, a good jack, and a flexible cable. Construction is most of the battle.

The Pighog stuff is actually really good for the money.

I run Caulfield Cables. Top notch hardware, well constructed and really easy to coil as they are soft.
Caulfield Cables
I expect these to last the rest of my life
 
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#17
chadhargis said:
I've never noticed any sound quality differences between cables. I do like rugged ones that are braided. I have a friend who works for Runway Audio, and I have used some of their stuff. It's very rugged and seems to be high quality. But in all honesty, it doesn't sound any different to me than my cheap Fender curly cable I use quite a bit. I also have a Mogami cable in my practice space I use every day. Again, no real difference in sound.
Click to expand...
Because there is no difference in sound.

A good cable is one that's well built and can take the day to day usage of a working musician.
 
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#18
Leigh Semmens said:
The best one is one that works! Apart from that, I'm not fussy. If I have a "good" one then I'll use that over a "cheap" one. Of course even "good" cables fail. Typically, IME it is the plug that is the problem, not the actual cable itself. Replace the plug with a good one and the problem goes away. As far as brand is concerned. If people have good experience with brand X over brand Y then, of course Brand X is gonna win.
Click to expand...

By "plug" failing, are you speaking of the male plugs at both ends of the cable? What about the other side -- the female jack?
 
#20
N. Kentucky Bass said:
By "plug" failing, are you speaking of the male plugs at both ends of the cable? What about the other side -- the female jack?
Click to expand...
Typically it is the tip of the male plug that comes loose and can be tightened, however, the sleeve is a different creature, if they come loose (on cheap plugs usually) there is no fixing them as they are an interference fit which goes on to create noise or complete failure just like a dry soldered joint, the only difference being, a dry joint can be fixed. Buy the best plugs you can find and save yourself some heartache. The sockets can also be an issue, but not as much as the plugs, just ensure that the socket is secure in its housing or movement can cause wires to twist and short, or break.
 
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