black & blond P makeover (etc)

[JIO]

The Allparts maple neck arrived earlier and I rubbed a first coat of teak oil on it. Tuners should be here soon and I have a bone nut to replace the plastic one that comes on it. Not sure if I'll do a hs decal…
Also did more work on the body. I took a tip from BassHappy's most excellent concurrent thread http://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-performer-build.1103935/page-13 from a post by master luthier Bruce Johnson. He described anchoring the bridge with brass bars imbedded into the bodies core for solid internal transfer of low tone response. (or something like that…) Since I currently have a body sandwich going, and had a block of scrap brass.., well I thought, it's worth a go. (sorry for this type - my computer does this weird font shrink w/o any explanation occasionally so I have to resize it and of course the default size is somewhere between 3-4 ~) I drilled and threaded it for flat head stainless steel machine screws and when the 1/2" maple cap goes on and access holes are drilled in it, it will be how the bridge is secured to the body. Cool idea right? Bruce spoke of 'bars' but there were no pics to illustrate so this isn't exactly what he does but it works for me and if it helps the tone - great! The bar is 3/8" deep, about the same as it is wide and it's been epoxied into the route. Still waiting on the maple blank but once I get that I'm off to the races.

 

[BassHappy]

The Allparts maple neck arrived earlier and I rubbed a first coat of teak oil on it. Tuners should be here soon and I have a bone nut to replace the plastic one that comes on it. Not sure if I'll do a hs decal…
Also did more work on the body. I took a tip from BassHappy's most excellent concurrent thread http://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-performer-build.1103935/page-13 from a post by master luthier Bruce Johnson. He described anchoring the bridge with brass bars imbedded into the bodies core for solid internal transfer of low tone response. (or something like that…) Since I currently have a body sandwich going, and had a block of scrap brass.., well I thought, it's worth a go. (sorry for this type - my computer does this weird font shrink w/o any explanation occasionally so I have to resize it and of course the default size is somewhere between 3-4 ~) I drilled and threaded it for flat head stainless steel machine screws and when the 1/2" maple cap goes on and access holes are drilled in it, it will be how the bridge is secured to the body. Cool idea right? Bruce spoke of 'bars' but there were no pics to illustrate so this isn't exactly what he does but it works for me and if it helps the tone - great! The bar is 3/8" deep, about the same as it is wide and it's been epoxied into the route. Still waiting on the maple blank but once I get that I'm off to the races.

Outstanding JIO!

This is great, I am excited to see how you make out on this bass with the bridge block. It certainly seems to make sense. If it turns out to be a remarkable improvement, I would consider it for all my solid body Fenders. It's an easy mod, and minor chips in the finish won't probably show up as the block will ultimately be covered up by the bridge.

I am stoked, and you played the bass a lot so you will be able to sense the difference right away. Of course, you have other factors, such as the swiss cheese and the new top, but I think the bridge block might tell you a lot.

 

[JIO]

Outstanding JIO!

This is great, I am excited to see how you make out on this bass with the bridge block. It certainly seems to make sense. If it turns out to be a remarkable improvement, I would consider it for all my solid body Fenders. It's an easy mod, and minor chips in the finish won't probably show up as the block will ultimately be covered up by the bridge.

I am stoked, and you played the bass a lot so you will be able to sense the difference right away. Of course, you have other factors, such as the swiss cheese and the new top, but I think the bridge block might tell you a lot.

Well, I think it actually wouldn't be a straight forward mod on a finished bass. If I understand it correctly, the brass bar needs to be centrally imbedded into the body. The only way you can do that (similar to how mine is) would be to have it routed from the back. The bar would be inset, and a rear plug (of wood) would need to fill the remainder of the route. I guess something like a battery cover could suffice as a way to 'cap' it, but it wouldn't be seamless. It could be a very well polished brass cover, or some such thing.

The stability/grounding factor of this system has to do with not only a tight fit of the epoxied brass bar in the route, but also with the wood between the bridge and bar being rock-solid (like my 1/2" maple top will be) On my sandwiched/layered body; the bridge will be anchored directly to the brass bar through the maple, and the maple is grafted to the alder - each dynamic interface reinforces the other. So on a finished bass, the only way to do that is a rear rout. If it made a remarkable sonic improvement - it could be a worthwhile and doable mod, but it would require skill and finess to do it well cosmetically.

Anyway, it was fun to do on my "in progress" project and it may not change anything, but you never know unless you try! I think it's guaranteed that I will be able to hear a difference considering I'm introducing multiple variables; holy body/maple laminate/maple neck/P pu/passive electronics… so the final review will come down to - thumbs up or thumbs down!

 

[BassHappy]

Well, I think it actually wouldn't be a straight forward mod on a finished bass. If I understand it correctly, the brass bar needs to be centrally imbedded into the body. The only way you can do that (similar to how mine is) would be to have it routed from the back. The bar would be inset, and a rear plug (of wood) would need to fill the remainder of the route. I guess something like a battery cover could suffice as a way to 'cap' it, but it wouldn't be seamless. It could be a very well polished brass cover, or some such thing.

The stability/grounding factor of this system has to do with not only a tight fit of the epoxied brass bar in the route, but also with the wood between the bridge and bar being rock-solid (like my 1/2" maple top will be) On my sandwiched/layered body; the bridge will be anchored directly to the brass bar through the maple, and the maple is grafted to the alder - each dynamic interface reinforces the other. So on a finished bass, the only way to do that is a rear rout. If it made a remarkable sonic improvement - it could be a worthwhile and doable mod, but it would require skill and finess to do it well cosmetically.

Anyway, it was fun to do on my "in progress" project and it may not change anything, but you never know unless you try! I think it's guaranteed that I will be able to hear a difference considering I'm introducing multiple variables; holy body/maple laminate/maple neck/P pu/passive electronics… so the final review will come down to - thumbs up or thumbs down!

Hi JIO

The one that Bruce is making is an aluminum "Block" not a brass bar. Here is his template for it. Remember, he is making a new oversize bridge plate to replace the standard Fender one which matches up exactly with the original Performer bridge plate:

It is not routed from the rear, but right on the front of the body and goes directly under the bridge. The bridge is screwed right into it and it is slightly smaller than the actual bridge so it won't be seen - so there is no wood between them. In this case, and the case of my other basses, it's an easy mod even on a finished bass - if it is routed very carefully and you don't crack or mar the finish....

 

[JIO]

Hi JIO

The one that Bruce is making is an aluminum "Block" not a brass bar. Here is his template for it. Remember, he is making a new oversize bridge plate to replace the standard Fender one which matches up exactly with the original Performer bridge plate:

View attachment 513677

It is not routed from the rear, but right on the front of the body and goes directly under the bridge. The bridge is screwed right into it and it is slightly smaller than the actual bridge so it won't be seen - so there is no wood between them. In this case, and the case of my other basses, it's an easy mod even on a finished bass - if it is routed very carefully and you don't crack or mar the finish....

Oh, yes.., he mentioned that version as well. I thought you were referring to the imbedded bars he also spoke of. I imagine it's the same goal, to create a solid bridge/body connection. I like string-thru basses for that reason, at least conceptually. I only say that because I own basses that are string-thru and top-load and they all sound good to me. My ears are aware of 'good' or 'not so good', which is good enough for my needs. I've always felt that 'perfection' is more a curse that a blessing.

UPDATE: Just ordered the 1/2" maple blank from Tyler at classictonewoods (on ebay) Nice people to deal with - recommended for your next project. Will be here end of next week.

 

[BassHappy]

Oh, yes.., he mentioned that version as well. I thought you were referring to the imbedded bars he also spoke of. I imagine it's the same goal, to create a solid bridge/body connection. I like string-thru basses for that reason, at least conceptually. I only say that because I own basses that are string-thru and top-load and they all sound good to me. My ears are aware of 'good' or 'not so good', which is good enough for my needs. I've always felt that 'perfection' is more a curse that a blessing.

UPDATE: Just ordered the 1/2" maple blank from Tyler at classictonewoods (on ebay) Nice people to deal with - recommended for your next project. Will be here end of next week.

Yeah, that whole imbedded bar thing is a bit of a mystery - part of that Ampeg scroll thing that Bruce has perfected within his own versions. I don't know if you have spent any time over there but a lot goes on in that thread: http://www.talkbass.com/threads/love-of-ampeg-and-other-scroll-basses-part-2.1044767/page-24

Yeah, I just meant if the aluminum block seems to add something special I would consider upgrading the herd. I love doing things that could possibly make my "Fenders" sound better than anyone else.


Giggle giggle.

 

[JIO]

more update; got the 70's style commonly called "Getty Lee" (never been a fan honestly) tuners today, ordered a DiMarzio P/J set w/creme covers, a string tree/button, Dunlop strap buttons, and a '62 stacked pot harness (parts for self assembly-cheaper) from bestbassgear.com

So no more shopping for the next two days. I'm one of those idealistic types that attempt political statements… it's in my DNA…

...and lastly, I figured out the hs decal situation. I really have a hard time w/blank Fender hs's. They look.., blank - like a face w/o eye's, nose and mouth. It's because the logo/script is an important visual for our reference. Headstock shape + script + tuners/pegs/tree = gestalt. But this time, I didn't want to go 'Fender' homage. So… I think this is a good way to go.

 

[BassHappy]

more update; got the 70's style commonly called "Getty Lee" (never been a fan honestly) tuners today, ordered a DiMarzio P/J set w/creme covers, a string tree/button, Dunlop strap buttons, and a '62 stacked pot harness (parts for self assembly-cheaper) from bestbassgear.com

So no more shopping for the next two days. I'm one of those idealistic types that attempt political statements… it's in my DNA…

...and lastly, I figured out the hs decal situation. I really have a hard time w/blank Fender hs's. They look.., blank. It's because the logo/script is an important visual for our reference. The gestalt is headstock shape plus script - boom. But this time, I didn't want to go 'Fender' homage. So… I think this is a good way to go.

Cool JIO

Love the decal and I get the non shopping thing. My recollection is that you are doing a solid color over this - did you pick out a piece of kind of plain jane maple since the grain won't really be seen?

Your stuff is still in heavy rotation in the car - really enjoy having it - thanks again. And Happy thanksgiving. Going down to the neighbors for feasting and jamming. Should be a lot of tun. Breaking out the Alien today, which shines decently in a small living room with a couple of acoustic guitars. Of course, i play hard with a pick so that makes a bit of a difference!

Happy Turkey!

 

[JIO]

Cool JIO

Love the decal and I get the non shopping thing. My recollection is that you are doing a solid color over this - did you pick out a piece of kind of plain jane maple since the grain won't really be seen?

Your stuff is still in heavy rotation in the car - really enjoy having it - thanks again. And Happy thanksgiving. Going down to the neighbors for feasting and jamming. Should be a lot of tun. Breaking out the Alien today, which shines decently in a small living room with a couple of acoustic guitars. Of course, i play hard with a pick so that makes a bit of a difference!

View attachment 514303

Happy Turkey!

Perfect! Your day sounds like what T-day is all about! No jamming for me unfortunately but friends, food and a hike after eating on a clear bright day are planned. The maple looks to be pretty quiet. I'm now thinking of doing the translucent Mary Kay blond finish. By doing a hand rubbed oil finish on the neck (no vintage tint) I'm keeping the look dry and light. (like example pic) Probably no binding after all - but haven't decided yet. So any mapleness peeking through would be subtle (nice).

I'm glad you are enjoying my CD - I don't have a player in my vehicle and need more listening time to spin yours again. Thanks again for sending them!

Your Alien looks sweet - I bet it sounds great. Have you ever seen the Parker version of that? I couldn't find a pic - there was one on ebay a while back and I was pretty tempted. I love his vision and superior artisan craftsmanship. I own a Hornet 5'r that I really like, but if another Parker HB comes up I just might have to grab it this time!

Here's a pic of my humble little HB (a real sweetie!) -

 

[JIO]

decals applied - lacquer top/seal-coat coming up

 

[BassHappy]

decals applied - lacquer top/seal-coat coming up

Looks great and I always liked the Mary Kay finish. Can't wait to see what the maple looks like.

 

[JIO]

 

[JIO]

Maple is in the house - also the DiMarzio pu's, string tree, and Dunlop strap-loc buttons. I counted and there are 195 3/8" deep 5/8" diameter holes in the alder (!) The maple will also be 'perforated' in line with the alder holes, but shallow - more like 1/8th" deep. Just enough to join the holly party.

 

[JIO]

Got right on it drilling the bookended holes in the maple. Will cut it out tomorrow and glue & clamp it up.

 

[JIO]

should have known… (nobody does it better) Perhaps T stands for "Trouble", (as in, trouble is James Bonds middle name)

 

[JIO]

I'm gluing it now, and ordered creme binding from Stew Mac. They offer Les Paul width - 9/16" which is perfect for my 1/2" top. I thought by routing and installing binding, the seam issue becomes mute. (possible opening up under the paint over time) It also opens the discussion back to finish colour as the salmon version of Fiesta red would look really good w/creme binding… hummmm

 

[JIO]

The two sections are joined, and this weekend or sometime next week I do some edge sanding, routing and sealing. For reference sake (for now) I'll refer to it as the JB (Jazz Bass/James Bond/Jelly Beans.., strike that last one) As far as bridges go, I hear about "full contact" but this HM Fender brass bridge is rock SOLID into this body. I used 10-33 stainless machine bolts tapped into the brass bar, hogged out the bevels on the brass bridge plate for the screws to sit flush - and it's - tight. If there is one word you strive for in most all aspects of music - it's tight. (right?) word write it down!

 

[BassHappy]

The two sections are joined, and this weekend or sometime next week I do some edge sanding, routing and sealing. For reference sake (for now) I'll refer to it as the JB (Jazz Bass/James Bond/Jelly Beans.., strike that last one) As far as bridges go, I hear about "full contact" but this HM Fender brass bridge is SOLID into this body. I used 10-33 stainless machine bolts tapped into the brass bar, hogged out the bevels on the brass bridge plate for the screws to sit flush - and it's - tight. If there is one word you strive for in most all aspects of music - it's tight. (right?) word write it down!

Great Progress in such a short time! Everything is really shaping up! Love the additional swiss cheese, the maple is nice, the bridge mount too cool and Jazz Bass/James Bond for sure! I am hooked and I can't wait to see the next phase!

 

[Gbass75]

Any updates for us today? Progress pics?

 

[JIO]

Any updates for us today? Progress pics?

Spent some quality time rehearsing and starting re-assembly of my Supernova Mk II http://www.talkbass.com/threads/supernova-bass-project-ovular-content.1057545/page-27 a project that has had some ups and downs but always makes a 3point landing.

Will continue the JB in the upcoming weeks - I have to coordinate w/the shop that has the needed equipment. Just got my Stew Mac order today; wide creme binding/binding tape/copper shielding tape & Preservation Polish. The polish is nice, really cleans/shines up finishes w/no silicone in the mix. Apparently a lot of polishes use silicone and it's not recommended, especially if repairs or refinishing is needed down the line.