Blend knob vs. 3 way switch

[soundtweakers]

Besides the blending capabilities of the blend pot, what are the theoretical/actual electronic pro and cons of it compare to a 3 way switch. I always used the blend pot like a 3 way switch anyway.

I"m rewiring a passive P/J, and debating whether I should go with V-B-T or V-3way switch-T.

 

[mech]

Besides the blending capabilities of the blend pot, what are the theoretical/actual electronic pro and cons of it compare to a 3 way switch. I always used the blend pot like a 3 way switch anyway.

I"m rewiring a passive P/J, and debating whether I should go with V-B-T or V-3way switch-T.

It seems you've answered your question.

mech

 

[MrSandman]

I found more usable sounds on vol/vol configuration. Although i like it on j bass... not sure about pj..?

 

[jg42]

I found more usable sounds on vol/vol configuration. Although i like it on j bass... not sure about pj..?

does vol/vol sound different from vol/blend?

 

[JTE]

The blend pot (a real one anyway) works just like a Jazz bass-style V/V set up, only the pots are ganged. It works so that when you have the bridge soloed and roll the pot towards the center, it does NOT lower the bridge PUP, only rolls up the volume of the neck PUP. At center both PUPs are wide open, and as you continue to roll it towards the neck solo, it keeps the neck wide open as it rolls the bridge down.

Electrically, because you also have a master volume, you now have three volume controls loading the signal instead of two. That can make an audible difference, especially in high-end response. Because you tend to use the blend at its extremes and center anyway, I'd say go with the 3-way switch instead. They're simpler, have less potential for loss, and easier to get if you need a replacement quickly.

I've had basses with blends, 3-way switches, and V/V controls. I personally like the blend best, with the switch coming in a close second. V/V is clumsy and awkward for me- but I've primarily played basses with one volume control since 1976.

John

 

[Bassamatic]

Really good reply!

 

[Stealth]

The pro of a blend pot are that you can finely adjust the mix of the pickups, as an equal blend doesn't always give the best tone, sometimes it's better when one of the pickups is a little rolled off. The pro of a 3-way switch is that in the outer positions, you actually disconnect the other pickup completely, thus getting the perfect tone from just that pickup. The con is, obviously, you can't fine-tune the sound of the blended pickups (or it would require a bit of switch wizardry. (Just throught of a way, but I'll post later)

Personally, I use a 3-V-T layout, because I like all three tones out of the bass, the pure P, the pure bridge J and the blended P+J.

If you want to wire your bass with a blend, make sure the pot you use is has an M/N taper (meaning the center has both pickups at full power, not at 50% output as with A/C pan pots). Look around the net to see how a blend pot is usually wired, but don't connect the grounded lugs to the ground - leave them hanging unconnected. This insures a much smoother transition in tone.

 

[soundtweakers]

The blend pot (a real one anyway) works just like a Jazz bass-style V/V set up, only the pots are ganged. It works so that when you have the bridge soloed and roll the pot towards the center, it does NOT lower the bridge PUP, only rolls up the volume of the neck PUP. At center both PUPs are wide open, and as you continue to roll it towards the neck solo, it keeps the neck wide open as it rolls the bridge down.

Electrically, because you also have a master volume, you now have three volume controls loading the signal instead of two. That can make an audible difference, especially in high-end response. Because you tend to use the blend at its extremes and center anyway, I'd say go with the 3-way switch instead. They're simpler, have less potential for loss, and easier to get if you need a replacement quickly.

I've had basses with blends, 3-way switches, and V/V controls. I personally like the blend best, with the switch coming in a close second. V/V is clumsy and awkward for me- but I've primarily played basses with one volume control since 1976.

John

Thanks John for your reply. I too primarily play with one master volume control for ages on my straight Jazz bass that has the V-B-T controls, and I absolutely love the tones of this bass neck, bridge, or combined, a single master volume is very important for me.

I'm at this debate because of this Hot Rod PJ bass I got recently set as V-V-T. Sound wise I like the P/J full on, the J solo'ed, and especially the P solo'ed completely blew me away. The two volume control bothers me quite a bit so I"m really looking for the best solution for a Master V that will have the least amount of loss. Guess I'm leaning towards a 3-way switch. Also, I'm considering a rotary type 3way switch instead of the Les Paul type, but can't seem to find any wiring diagram with rotary switches.

 

[soundtweakers]

The pro of a blend pot are that you can finely adjust the mix of the pickups, as an equal blend doesn't always give the best tone, sometimes it's better when one of the pickups is a little rolled off. The pro of a 3-way switch is that in the outer positions, you actually disconnect the other pickup completely, thus getting the perfect tone from just that pickup. The con is, obviously, you can't fine-tune the sound of the blended pickups (or it would require a bit of switch wizardry. (Just throught of a way, but I'll post later)

Personally, I use a 3-V-T layout, because I like all three tones out of the bass, the pure P, the pure bridge J and the blended P+J.

If you want to wire your bass with a blend, make sure the pot you use is has an M/N taper (meaning the center has both pickups at full power, not at 50% output as with A/C pan pots). Look around the net to see how a blend pot is usually wired, but don't connect the grounded lugs to the ground - leave them hanging unconnected. This insures a much smoother transition in tone.

Thank you, I've done the VVT to VBT mod with the Bourn 250K Blend pot that worked really well for me, and yes I unloaded the blend pot as recommended by TB member Walterw.

I totally dig the "true bypass" quality of a 3-way switch for that straight P or J or PJ tone, and I don't think I'll miss the ability to blend. Thank you for reconfirming something I suspected.

Some folks does the 4 way rotary with the P-PJ(series)-PJ(parallel)-J configuration. That seems pretty interesting as well, wondering if anyone has a drawing of that?

 

[Stealth]

Courtesy of TB's line6man:

This shows a two-pole, 4-position rotary.
C-s are common contacts of each pole, in the center of the rotary. On most rotaries they're labeled A and B.
1-2-3-4-s are the rotational positions on the rim of the rotary. On most rotaries they're labeled 1-4 for the A's connection, and 5-8 for the B's connection.
As you rotate, A gets connected to 1-2-3-4, while B gets connected to 5-6-7-8.

 

[soundtweakers]

Courtesy of TB's line5man:

This shows a two-pole, 4-position rotary.
C-s are common contacts of each pole, in the center of the rotary. On most rotaries they're labeled A and B.
1-2-3-4-s are the rotational positions on the rim of the rotary. On most rotaries they're labeled 1-4 for the A's connection, and 5-8 for the B's connection.
As you rotate, A gets connected to 1-2-3-4, while B gets connected to 5-6-7-8.

Is the diagram you posted for the P-Series-Parallel-J wiring? I've seen another diagram courtesy of TB's line6man for the P-Series-Parallel-J so I"m a bit confused at the moment. I've decided to do this rotary switch mod, but not sure what and where to buy the switch, and the pole#

thanks

Diagram courtesy of line6man

 

[acebase62]

My 1985 Fender Jazz Bass Special came stock with V-V-T and a 3 way toggle.

The toggle middle position activated both pickups, but allowed for independent volume control of either (like a standard V-V-T).

The other 2 toggle positions soloed either the neck pickup or bridge pickup.

 

[Stealth]

Is the diagram you posted for the P-Series-Parallel-J wiring? I've seen another diagram courtesy of TB's line6man for the P-Series-Parallel-J so I"m a bit confused at the moment. I've decided to do this rotary switch mod, but not sure what and where to buy the switch, and the pole#

thanks

Diagram courtesy of line6man

From the look of it, what I posted should also be good and much simpler. The Bridge PU- is always considered connected to ground.

Here are the positions explained:

• 1) Neck+ connected to Neck- (Neck PU is shorted with itself). Bridge+ connected to Volume. Bridge only.
• 2) Neck+ connected to Volume, Neck- to 2 and through that to Bridge+. Series.
• 3) Neck+ connected to Volume. Neck- grounded. Bridge+ connected to 3 and though the wires to Volume as well. Parallel.
• 4) Neck+ connected to Volume. Neck- connected to 4 and thus grounded, Bridge+ also connected to 4 and thus grounded. Neck only.

The wiring you've shown is a bit more explicit in showing each position (it's easier to read), but I don't really like the switching sequence (N, S, P, B makes more sense to me than N, B, P, S)