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Video of a problem I had on my WT500 years ago. Reflowing the solder joints for the high wattage resistors fixed the issue. May be helpful.
Right, then the trace opens up and a new problem emerges. Especially if it's the shunt regulator trace, an over-voltage condition throughout the preamp.Most likely the issue, but it's a job best left for a qualified tech. I've seen these boards cook the traces until there's not much of anything to solder to.
I think talkbass should set up an IA to automatically reply this actually.A QUALIFIED service tech should diagnose correctly in order to identify the actual cause and thus the proper repair.
I think talkbass should set up an IA to automatically reply this actually.A QUALIFIED service tech should diagnose correctly in order to identify the actual cause and thus the proper repair.
Unfortunately Qualified techs are virtually non existent around these parts...I think talkbass should set up an IA to automatically reply this actually.
Can't help you there, it's what happens when qualified techs are no longer appreciated enough for them continue developing and refining diagnostics skills enough to remain in the industry.Unfortunately Qualified techs are virtually non existent around these parts...
As stuff becomes more complicated and cheaper to manufacture it no longer makes sense to get things repaired.developing and refining diagnostics skills enough to remain in the industry.
Schematics are only available to Fender authorized service centers with a valid NDA on file.As stuff becomes more complicated and cheaper to manufacture it no longer makes sense to get things repaired.
I know of 2 GB shuttle 6.0's with bad preamps. Are schematics available? Drawing one by hand is prohibitive in terms of time.
Unfortunately Qualified techs are virtually non existent around these parts...
Sounds like it could be cold solder joints on the large power resistors on the preamp board. On older (US made) WT amps, these resistors are part of a circuit with zener diodes that drop the supply voltage from around 80V to 15V DC and they get hot, often enough to discolor the PCB and cause the solder joints underneath to fail. This failure is a common issue with these amps and will cause the preamp to cut out, sometimes causing loud pops and the flashing of the front panel LEDs. On my WT-500, I replaced the original 5W resistors with 10W units and cleaned up the solder joints. Others have used heatsinks and/or attached the power resistors to the chassis, away from the PCB. A little searching should bring up some of the solutions.I am investigating on an issue I have on my favorite Amp.
While I am playing the sound decreasses slowly, till I have no volume at all. And then it increases.
Same problem with the DI, so I guess it is a preamp issue.
It is a bit disturbing if I am on stage.
During this, the leds of the equalizer are all lightening red.
I thought it was the tube that was KO but after changing it same problem occurs.
Do you have any idea of where does this come from ? Is it a "typical Eden WT" problem ?
is expensive to fix that ?
I moved the resistors off the board on my WT400, heres a post with the process if you wanted to share with the repairman you are using.Right, also true in France, many people talking a lot and so few with real skills.
Fortunatly I know a quite old HIFI manufacturer, passionnated with his job and when I called him yesterday he knew exactly the amp model I have.
When I came in his store I saw he was reparing many Marantz HIFi reciever, I'm also a fan of these old things
50$ to make an investigation and then it depends from the kind of issue he founds.
Thanks for giving me your advices , I thinck I will have to bring my amp next month when I 'll get paid
Have a nice day guys
The WT-X05 series had a different issue (than the WT-X00 series) with the low voltage regulators early in their production (if I remember correctly)I have the same issue with my WT-405.
Watching.
Video of a problem I had on my WT500 years ago. Reflowing the solder joints for the high wattage resistors fixed the issue. May be helpful.
Did you try the Jumper test?Thanks for this video but my issue is quite different : The volume decreases in a few seconds and then increases with no "click"