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Breaking strings too often

Type "repair broken guitar string" into your Google machine and it will turn up several videos about how to do just that. Who knew?

Have yet to find any about a .130 gauge bass B-string. Thin, plain guitar strings are no sweat, I am doing this myself now and then. And nylon strings, well, they're made like that. You're basically doing that from the start on. Would be interesting to see how to do it on any .130 gauge bass string.;)
 
Hey, thank for all the comments... i'll answer some of those questions...

I play metal, with fingers.. near the saddless...

my amp is kinda small, and strings generally are old and bad quality, i didnt think THAT to be one of the big reasons of my problem.

about the saddless, i guess it needs some service...



Say it in Spanish and I can translate for you. It really intrigues me.

hola Ema, para atar una cuerda gruesa como .125 o .095 que esta cortada cerca del PUENTE, primero hay que cortarle el pedacito que queda entre la rosquita y el corte...
luego, el pedazo de cuerda más largo, hay que quitarle todas las capas de entorchado, dejando unos 3 o 4 cm de cuerda sin entorchar...

bass_strings.jpg

3 o 4 cm de cuerda SIN ENTORCHAR

luego sacas la rosquita que te quedo en el otro pedacito de cuerda, y con la cuerda sin entorchar, atás la rosquita, las partes del entorchado que sobran, se cortan con algún alicate.

PD: el problema con las cuerdas gruesas A E B, es que el entorchado no llega igual de grueso hasta el final, entonces en la cejuela hay que ponerle algún cartón o algo asi para que no baile la cuerda en la cejuela. Esto en las cuerdas D y G no es necesario!!

alright then, sorry for the spanish xD

if still necesary, i'll make that video, promise...
 
I broke a few strings on my pointy 80s Ibanez way back when. The old trick I used to eliminate them was to get a set of pantyhose (if you can even find 'em any more) and slowly rub the bridge and nut surfaces. If you get any snags that's a sharp spot that needs some very gentle filing, just to the point it doesn't snag any more.
 
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Hey, thank for all the comments... i'll answer some of those questions...

I play metal, with fingers.. near the saddless...

my amp is kinda small, and strings generally are old and bad quality, i didnt think THAT to be one of the big reasons of my problem.

about the saddless, i guess it needs some service...





hola Ema, para atar una cuerda gruesa como .125 o .095 que esta cortada cerca del PUENTE, primero hay que cortarle el pedacito que queda entre la rosquita y el corte...
luego, el pedazo de cuerda más largo, hay que quitarle todas las capas de entorchado, dejando unos 3 o 4 cm de cuerda sin entorchar...

bass_strings.jpg

3 o 4 cm de cuerda SIN ENTORCHAR

luego sacas la rosquita que te quedo en el otro pedacito de cuerda, y con la cuerda sin entorchar, atás la rosquita, las partes del entorchado que sobran, se cortan con algún alicate.

PD: el problema con las cuerdas gruesas A E B, es que el entorchado no llega igual de grueso hasta el final, entonces en la cejuela hay que ponerle algún cartón o algo asi para que no baile la cuerda en la cejuela. Esto en las cuerdas D y G no es necesario!!

alright then, sorry for the spanish xD

if still necesary, i'll make that video, promise...


Translation:


To repair a broken string at the saddle:

First of all you have to cut the broken part with the ball at the end.

On the string, at the broken point, you have to unwind the wounds leaving about 3 to 4 cm with the core exposed. (picture)

You have to take out the ball from the broken part of the string and tie it down to the core. Cut the excess with a wire cutter.

PD: The problem with thick strings (B, E, A) is sometimes the full wound doesn´t reach the nut, so you´d have to use some paper in order for the string not to vibrate on the nut. This is not needed for D and G strings.
 
I play metal, with fingers.. near the saddless...
my amp is kinda small, and strings generally are old and bad quality, i didnt think THAT to be one of the big reasons of my problem.
about the saddless, i guess it needs some service...

And then when you started the OP, you said:

"Hi there, i'm playing from a few years and in this last months i've been breaking strings too often, I mean, once a week. A, E, B strings, from a fender mb-5."


How can strings generally be old, and then you break them once a week and have to buy new ones? You did not answer if this happened with D'addaros too. As it has started to happen last months, we can't tell if you break them with an old set of strings, or new ones. One thing though, that the set that you buy, the cheap Argentinian one MAY be one of those ROUND CORE strings. D'addario hasn't this but this is a far fetched one, since I know of only the brand DR that makes them.

Basically the bass string is wound around a round core instead of a hex core. A round core string is more prone to unravel and turn loose, if you don't take good care and certain process to it, when stringing them on your bass. Not to go into details, 90 percent of all strings are on hex core in order to protect the string from unravel. Usually it should say so on the packaging. If it says "hex core" then rule this one out completely. It's not that. Round cores are only for those seriously experienced and professional, and can detect the advantages of these. However, this is another topic. Here's a picture:
Acoustic-Guitar-Strings.jpg



However, since you're saying you're buying some cheapo Argentinian brand, we don't know whether those are of round core or hex core. I can very well think that round cores tends to break up and unravel at the bridge saddle MORESO than a hexcore one.

- - - - -

Here's a tip of reversible experiment that will not damage your bass.
If it looks like the bridge on the Fender picture I put out above you can do this.

1. Take off the B and E strings.
2. Take off the bridge saddle for these string and reverse them front to back (not upside down). If they're EQUALLY ROUND the angle of which the string leaves the saddle towards the neck and back to the string ball end, should remain and stay the same. Just as well as the slot should be equally as big for that given gauge.
3. String them on back again.
4. You may have to intonate your bass again. And adjust the HEIGHT screws again to accomodate radius and string height.
5. Do this with the rest of the strings too, if needed.
6. You can check with a magnifying glass if there's any nicks or dent inside that saddle groove that erodes its way into the string.

However, this is provided that the bridge and saddles allows for this! It isn't sure it will work. Some has the intonation screw at the side of the strings, and then you will whack the alignment and it will not be able to change it like that. If it looks like this:

$_57.jpg


Then there's no room for turning it around at all. Then drop my tip above. You MAY be able to turn each saddle upside down instead, but I am not sure this will work either. It is only to be sure of that there's no dent or unevenness in the slots. The underside of these saddles may have been completely smooth and not "rugged up" by any string. This may or may not work as a test. I don't think these saddles are made round, and equal round all the way around. The may be flat at the bottom (underside) so you can adjust string height to maximum low and so on. Someone else may chime in on this and tell us how they're made.


I do think however, is that you're hammering it. Since it has happened the last months, your stamina and muscles may have reached a point were you hammering so much that it is beyond the elasticity of the string. Do you have grown small biceps on your picking fingers? ;) Just kidding. Jokes aside, you said you used a "small amp" which I think may be the culprit as someone else have said early on. Since you're using a 5 string and a Low B, that note isn't very well heard at all on any small amp. You should check out the distance between the string and pickups too if needed. If they're too far away from the string it will produce a low and soft note, and you need to hammer it to get heard.
 
By and large, ususally made for trem guitars, the Graph-Tech string savers exists for bass bridges too, you could just change out the saddles if you like.
If you're going through a string in a week, the cost of a bunch of these may very well be less than the string cost, and ONE (of many) of the solutions:

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I do think these are only worth it of you have really cheap "economy" bridge saddles of cheapo Asian import basses. A Mexican Fenders bridge isn't of thin pot metal, or something. I don't know. A bridge saddle should be made of the same steel as the string, in order for it to work properly in the long run.

If your saddles looks like this (below) they may be the culprit for string breakage. I have never ever understood the point with these, and I never will...they're supposed to eat strings for breakfast...

BP-2125-001.jpg
 
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In 2012 I broke my first bass string ever, a G-string, a 045, while playing live. I've played since the end of 80's. The string set was from 2006 (!). It was a deliberate attempt to see how far it could go. No fancy string a all. D'addarios.

- - -

Add note: The strings were the stainless steel ones, and frets nickel. Dents were made during the years on the nickel frets only, and hardly ever on the strings. They kept their intonation and tuning provided that you took care of them after each gig. But it was a deliberate experiment to see how far they lasted if you took care. Never boiled them ever. Just wiped them with isopropanol ethyl alcohol from time to time. If I wanted other basses with more zzing, I could turn to them with fresher strings on.
 
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I had the same problem in the early 00's, partly due to bad technique: hammering away with a heavy pick, crappy saddles and Rotosound not having their product up to a high level during that time.
Rotosound upped their quality control, even Billy Sheehan turned his back on them for a while because of this, and returned later.
I replaced my saddles with the aforementioned Graph-tech saddles and maybe more importantly; I switched to a nylon picked and relearned myself how to play, with a much lighter touch.
Doing so also gives me more control in dynamics, if I want a louder note for an accent, I can. I you already play at max. power, you can never accent that.
Graph-tech saddles are also a very good investment, I also put them on my guitar.
 
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