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Personally, I would drill two holes on either side of the back of the bridge, counter sink, them and put two screws to hold the back of the bridge against the body.
Personally, I would drill two holes on either side of the back of the bridge, counter sink, them and put two screws to hold the back of the bridge against the body.
Good idea- someone did that recently, and posted it. They used oval-head screws to match and it looked like original design.
But I think they centered the screws between the 1st/2nd strings and the 5th/6th strings to even out the stress.
I replaced the one on my '96 SR506 (same bridge) with individual string bridges.
But the new SR506 bridge has side rails for support, and the front 2 screws may be the same.
It has 6 screws in the back, tho, so you'd need to fill the existing holes and re-drill.
The other good thing about the new SR506 bridge is that it's top-load also.
Don't know if it's avail in gold, tho.
Personally, I would drill two holes on either side of the back of the bridge, counter sink, them and put two screws to hold the back of the bridge against the body.