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Bridging an IPR2 2000

I've scoured the internet and even read through all (that I could find) the threads here to figure out what exactly I need to do to bridge my new IPR2 2000 into my 8ohm Aguilar 412. Here's what I've jumbled together from quotes on here:


"You have to parallel the inputs (no signal inversion or anything, just a straight parallel. Then, you take (+) from channel 1 and (-) from channel 2. Match the gain control on both channels and you're there.


You'll need to make a speakon cable with two speakons at one end and one on the other. You take the positive signal from the A amp to the positive on your speaker end speakon. Then you take the negative from the B amp and that goes to the negative on your speaker end speakon.


You basically create a Y cable.


Then set both attenuators for the same level.


Also: you need to run a cable from one "Thru" jack to the other."


To be honest.. I don't know what this means exactly and I for sure don't know how to do it. Anybody have a video or a step by step to help a brother out? If not, I may just have to sell it and get a Crest Pro Lite.
 
The input situation is the easiest. A 1/4" pedalboard-type patch cable from CH 1 "Thru" to channel 2's input should work.

As for the speaker "Y"cable, it's not too hard.
Speakon connectors have 4 conductors, and when opened up they are clearly labeled as 1+, 1-, 2+ and 2-.
Peavey (and pretty much everyone else) uses the 1+/-.
(The 2+/- are there for PA applications).

The easiest way to do this would be to buy a pair of male Speakons and a female, plus a normal Speakon cable to go from the short Y to the cabinet.
Run a short heavy gauge wire from a male 1+ to the 1+ on the female, and from the other male's 1- to the female's 1-.
MARK THE MALE CONNECTORS CLEARLY so you always plug the + into the correct channel.

Have someone do this for you, as the tricky part is getting the cable thicknesses right so that the built-in strain reliefs hold your mini Y-connector together so it's safe and robust. Heat-shrink tubing will be required, and a set of small Allen wrenches because these are solderless connectors.
Any competent tech should have no trouble.
Good luck!
 
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I do have a "bridge" speakon cable that came with a crown xls1000 I had bought from another TBer. It's marked but it looks like a normal speakon, not y'd. I'm assuming I won't be able to use that, right?


Nope.

You will need to buy a new section of wire, and three ends. One end is wired normally. The other end is wired +1 on one end, and -1 on the other. I will have to double check which is Ch. A and which is Ch. B as it does matter. Yes you have to jump the channels, and set the attenuaters equally.
 
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Here's my IPR bridging cable. It has 3 speakon connectors, a length of canare quad cable and a bunch of different kinds of shrink tubing. It took me about 20 minutes to make. All supplies were bought through Redco.
14779975863_a5e987bf22_o.jpg
 
Amp output connector A 1+ to Cab connector 1+
Amp output connector B 1- to Cab connector 1-

Mark the amp connectors "A" and "B" and have adequate strain relief where each cable enters it's connector.

You can create a "Y" as BurningSkies did by splitting the cable and applying heat shrink tubing, or run separate cables back to the cab connector as I did.
 
The input situation is the easiest. A 1/4" pedalboard-type patch cable from CH 1 "Thru" to channel 2's input should work.

As for the speaker "Y"cable, it's not too hard.
Speakon connectors have 4 conductors, and when opened up they are clearly labeled as 1+, 1-, 2+ and 2-.
Peavey (and pretty much everyone else) uses the 1+/-.
(The 2+/- are there for PA applications).

The easiest way to do this would be to buy a pair of male Speakons and a female, plus a normal Speakon cable to go from the short Y to the cabinet.
Run a short heavy gauge wire from a male 1+ to the 1+ on the female, and from the other male's 1- to the female's 1-.
MARK THE MALE CONNECTORS CLEARLY so you always plug the + into the correct channel.

Have someone do this for you, as the tricky part is getting the cable thicknesses right so that the built-in strain reliefs hold your mini Y-connector together so it's safe and robust. Heat-shrink tubing will be required, and a set of small Allen wrenches because these are solderless connectors.
Any competent tech should have no trouble.
Good luck!

The bigger siblings Peavey IPR2 5000 and 7500 have the 4-pin connector on Channel A (as mentioned for PA applications). The 2+ and 2- correspond to channel B. Any reason not to utilize this and save a speakON connector? In other words:
  • Wire Channel A 1+ to Speaker 1+ and Channel A 2- to Speaker 1-
Of course, still have to run a patch cable on input side from Channel A thru to Channel B input - just trying to save some money on the output side.