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Build Thread

#103
Thank you for sharing your compound fretboard jig with us. It is a well thought out. I looks like it would work well. Does the pipes have bearings set in the ends?

I'm sorry, I'll wait for your explanation until tomorrow as you stated. It sounds like you had a busy night. I waited up late just in case you posted somthing.

Awsome!!!
Thanks,
Dino
 
#104
This jig is 30" long. The radius curve at one end is 12", at the other end is 20".

The sled is sized to fit the base of the router.

The pipes fit into the pipe holders with the plastic pipe caps (orange thread protectors visible in photo 2) left in place. They press into place but still allow the pipes to pivot.

While in use, the secret is to keep the pipes in contact with the radiused ends of the jig. You set your router's desired depth of cut and then slide the sled along the length of the pipes to mill.the cut.

After a cut, you then move the pipe sled rails a little, re-establish rail contact at all 4 contact points, and mill again.

But don't copy this one! I am building a new one that will NOT use pipes. It will be smaller, lighter, longer (40"), have less moving parts, be more stable, and much more accurate.

If anyone wants to build one then you'll want wait for it Ill post pics of its design and construction on my Jigs thread.
 
#112
You are all awsome! I am on brain fry trying to look at all these posts on "gettin Jiggy". This is the best forum and members hands down. I have to get posting what I've got going on! Sharing information makes us all better at what our passon is "CREATING FROM OUT HEART-AKA THE ROCK BOTTOM" Thanks, Dino
 
#113
LedBelli Bass said:
This jig is 30" long. The radius curve at one end is 12", at the other end is 20".

The sled is sized to fit the base of the router.

The pipes fit into the pipe holders with the plastic pipe caps (orange thread protectors visible in photo 2) left in place. They press into place but still allow the pipes to pivot.

While in use, the secret is to keep the pipes in contact with the radiused ends of the jig. You set your router's desired depth of cut and then slide the sled along the length of the pipes to mill.the cut.

After a cut, you then move the pipe sled rails a little, re-establish rail contact at all 4 contact points, and mill again.

But don't copy this one! I am building a new one that will NOT use pipes. It will be smaller, lighter, longer (40"), have less moving parts, be more stable, and much more accurate.

If anyone wants to build one then you'll want wait for it Ill post pics of its design and construction on my Jigs thread.
Click to expand...

It's a nice jig and I'm curious to see your next one, but there's one thing I don't understand.. the sled rests on radiused sides of 12" and 20", but if you increase your router depth (quote: "You set your router's desired depth of cut"), than the radius decreases, so the result will be less than 12" and 20" fb radius. Am I right?
 
#114
roberthabraken said:
It's a nice jig and I'm curious to see your next one, but there's one thing I don't understand.. the sled rests on radiused sides of 12" and 20", but if you increase your router depth (quote: "You set your router's desired depth of cut"), than the radius decreases, so the result will be less than 12" and 20" fb radius. Am I right?
Click to expand...

This is one of those areas where my descriptive abilities lose out. It's not as bad as it looks. You are right that there is a very minimal difference (<3/16") due to some of what you are saying.

However, the base of the router sits a full 2" above the level of the radius' (O.D. of pipe = 1 1/4" + thickness of plywood router base 3/4" = total 2") The crown of the fingerboard, after radiusing, sits within 3/16" to 1/8" of the crown of the jig. Therefore, the bottom planing surface of the router bit is actually very close to being on plane with the crown of the jig.

So, yes there is a small difference. Were I aiming a beachball at Pluto, I'd be concerned, but for this application it works fine.

Thanks for asking, it's good to see that people are paying attention to details!

The new jig will not have this, in fact, it might even have a fraction of + radius. Should have the answer to that by this time tomorrow.
 
#115
LedBelli Bass said:
This is one of those areas where my descriptive abilities lose out. It's not as bad as it looks. You are right that there is a very minimal difference (<3/16") due to some of what you are saying.

However, the base of the router sits a full 2" above the level of the radius' (O.D. of pipe = 1 1/4" + thickness of plywood router base 3/4" = total 2") The crown of the fingerboard, after radiusing, sits within 3/16" to 1/8" of the crown of the jig. Therefore, the bottom planing surface of the router bit is actually very close to being on plane with the crown of the jig.

So, yes there is a small difference. Were I aiming a beachball at Pluto, I'd be concerned, but for this application it works fine.

Thanks for asking, it's good to see that people are paying attention to details!

The new jig will not have this, in fact, it might even have a fraction of + radius. Should have the answer to that by this time tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I understand. The saddle for the router lies above the radius, I didn't think of that.

I am very keen on jigs, since I do not have a lot of (power) tools. And it turns out you can do so much more with them :D. Can't wait to see your new one, since I couldn't think of any other way to do this (I guess it's a lack of imagination)...
 
#117
LedBelli Bass said:
There are some surprises coming . . .

002-15.jpg
Click to expand...


put a clear coat on it right now and call me a happy camper
 

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