Build your own cabinet - bad idea or really bad idea?

[beans-on-toast]

You have to have some basic skills, tools, and be able to think things through.

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Another good alternative is to find a woodworker in your area. Not necessarily a company but a carpenter with a workshop who knows what they are doing. You could find someone that will build a cabinet for you based on plans that you supply for a good price. Sometimes local wood stores offer referrals.

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[kesslari]

Good advice.

If the goal is "decent speaker cabinet for cheap", careful shopping of the used market will probably beat building your own cab.

OTOH, if you do build your cab, find a good design and build from that.

 

[placedesjardins]

Thanks for the info/advice.
So basically, I have some of my own power/hand tools from all the home renovation/auto repair jobs I've done. Labor would be free of charge.
I was thinking of building a 2 x 10 cab for less than $200.

 

[placedesjardins]

There are lots of DIY cabinet designs on this site.
You can find allot of them here..
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/amp...overunderpowercabs-diy-techtalk-links.166225/

I recommend building at least a 1x12 or 1x15. Better bang for your buck than a 2x10 or 2x12 etc. More drivers per cabinet=larger investment and less advantage over buying used.
8x10s can be found used for $400-$600 all day in some places where as a full featured DIY fearful 12/6/1(like mine) can cost almost as much and still be less than half as loud.

Cheap and DIY don't often go hand in hand.
That being said, I'm real proud of the cabinet I built. Hard to buy that DIY pride.

Wow, I missed that thread. I guess the title was information overload and I just ignored it.

I have this crazy idea of creating tubes, like Bazooka car sub-woofers tubes, but stack four speaker tubes vertically. A 15" on the bottom tube, then two 10" speakers and then an 8" speaker on the top. Kind of like a snowman.

 

[G00D+~VIBES]

Wow, I missed that thread. I guess the title was information overload and I just ignored it.

I have this crazy idea of creating tubes, like Bazooka car sub-woofers tubes, but stack four speaker tubes vertically. A 15" on the bottom tube, then two 10" speakers and then an 8" speaker on the top. Kind of like a snowman.

Brilliant! Let us know how it turns out!

 

[pie_man_25]

a 210 for less than 200 hundred total would be difficult to do, at least with eminence drivers, I know Dayton Audio makes some good drivers at a good price, I know they have a 10" PA driver that is about $50 a piece.

That said, a 112 or 115 would be better bang for your buck for sure.

And don't get too discouraged with these comments, with a bit of reading I was able to build some really nice sounding bookshelf/computer speakers from scratch: Link Removed

Just do some good reading on the subject, listen to the pros, run things through some software and interpret the plots. I would recommend just doing a simple full-range "one way" woofer set up so you don't have to work out crossovers, and if you use two drivers (i.e. two identical drivers running full range), just make sure that they're on the baffle board in a vertical line (up and down), rather than side-by-side. In a nutshell, that really helps the higher frequencies to be carried more evenly across the room.

 

[beans-on-toast]

Thanks for the info/advice.
So basically, I have some of my own power/hand tools from all the home renovation/auto repair jobs I've done. Labor would be free of charge.
I was thinking of building a 2 x 10 cab for less than $200.

It helps to have a router for some builds. Some clamps. A drill. Wood glue or PL Premium construction adhesive. Silicone for caulking. Basic stuff.

A good plywood to use is baltic birch. It is void free which means that there will be no internal rattles. Places that sell this wood often offer a cutting service. So if you determine each dimension that you need, they can make most of the cuts for you.

 

[tjh]

So I'm still researching getting a bass amp in either micro head plus speaker or combo form. I have a limited budget.... What if I buy a big bass amp head and make my own speakers?
I'm talking from scratch with lumber to cut and stuff, separate input thingy and speakers ...

Wow, I missed that thread. I guess the title was information overload and I just ignored it. I have this crazy idea of creating tubes, like Bazooka car sub-woofers tubes, but stack four speaker tubes vertically. A 15" on the bottom tube, then two 10" speakers and then an 8" speaker on the top. Kind of like a snowman.

you are correct, it is not rocket science .. just make sure you have your ducks in the right order, unlike another thread currently going on here ... decide what is going in the cab (drivers/mid/tweet/etc), then begin to design/build around those specs, rather than building a box and then looking for a speak that will work in it ...

...you also can't just build a box and stick a few different size speakers and 'thingies' in it thinking it is going to work ... IF someone isn't going to spend the time doing the research to make it 'usable', there are plenty of very cheap, older used cabs on the market that will cost less and do a much better job than somethng cobbled together 'like a snowman' ...

... in case you haven't thought about it, or are not familiar with them, look into sealed cabs as well ... they can be a bit more forgiving for a first time build, but it is just a matter of finding a driver(s) of choice suitable for use in sealed boxes ...

 

[mbelue]

Thanks for the info/advice.
So basically, I have some of my own power/hand tools from all the home renovation/auto repair jobs I've done. Labor would be free of charge.
I was thinking of building a 2 x 10 cab for less than $200.

A 1x12 would be almost as loud and much easier to come in in budget.
Likewise a 1x15 would be just as loud as you hypothetical 2x10 and also probably cheaper.
Less drivers is less cost.

 

[akori]

So I'm still researching getting a bass amp in either micro head plus speaker or combo form. I have a limited budget.
So then I was thinking, people make their own sub-woofer cabinets for their cars. These people aren't rocket scientists or genius PhD people, just everyday people who can assemble things with hand tools.
What if I buy a big bass amp head and make my own speakers?
I'm talking from scratch with lumber to cut and stuff, separate input thingy and speakers, not pre-fabbed kits. I'm not a master carpenter or electrician, but have done some do-it-yourself stuff like fixing my car, install wood flooring in my house, and electric appliance repair. I don't expect to be making something that will run GK out of business. Just something that is functional and made by me.

I just love the way you phrased the question.

 

[mbelue]

Great design for a cheap 1x12.
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/ano...mall-and-cheap-22-pounds-that-pounds.1095329/

 

[GVisc]

I got a lot of satisfaction from building a little 1x8 practice cab, doing all the research, messing around with the tuning program, gathering the parts, planning the build, from that perspective I think it was totally worth it. And to top it off, the outcome exceeded my expectations. With the time spent on it and the cost of the parts I'm sure it wasn't practical, but thats not really the point in trying it.

 

[DukeLeJeune]

Thanks for the info/advice.
So basically, I have some of my own power/hand tools from all the home renovation/auto repair jobs I've done. Labor would be free of charge.
I was thinking of building a 2 x 10 cab for less than $200.

You might look at the Celestion BL10-200X, seventy bucks each from Parts Express. Ballpark 2-2.5 cubic feet internal volume, with box size and tuning frequency to be optimized for your lowest open string (low-E? Low-B?).

 

[placedesjardins]

...you also can't just build a box and stick a few different size speakers and 'thingies' in it thinking it is going to work ... IF someone isn't going to spend the time doing the research to make it 'usable', there are plenty of very cheap, older used cabs on the market that will cost less and do a much better job than somethng cobbled together 'like a snowman' ...

I read through one of the DIY threads where someone made a 2x10 cab. So, he put in an internal divider within the cab. I would have never thought of that. It also seemed to strengthen the cab.

I'll do some more reading.

 

[placedesjardins]

You might look at the Celestion BL10-200X, seventy bucks each from Parts Express. Ballpark 2-2.5 cubic feet internal volume, with box size and tuning frequency to be optimized for your lowest open string (low-E? Low-B?).

low e. My bass is in the avatar.

 

[placedesjardins]

Ha ha. Funny thing. So I go to Carvin's website to see the prices of their speakers. So two 10" neo woofers would cost $220. Then, I go to Musician's Friend and Eminence Legend 10" 200 W 8 ohm speaker would be $100 each.
Thinking my thoughts and putting them into a thread before doing any research.

 

[dukeorock]

You might look at the Celestion BL10-200X, seventy bucks each from Parts Express. Ballpark 2-2.5 cubic feet internal volume, with box size and tuning frequency to be optimized for your lowest open string (low-E? Low-B?).

Not sure if all of you guys know this, but Duke, who is replying with advice, is one of the best cab designers on the planet...I'd listen very carefully to anything he has to say

 

[DukeLeJeune]

Not sure if all of you guys know this, but Duke, who is replying with advice, is one of the best cab designers on the planet...I'd listen very carefully to anything he has to say

Oh no, but I am one of the best cab designers in Preston, Idaho. Anyway dukeorock is one of the best cab builders on the planet, just check out his website.

low e. My bass is in the avatar.

Thank you. Okay, I'd look at 2.3 cubic feet net internal volume, or 2.7 cubic feet gross internal volume (this takes into account the volume occupied by drivers and ports), and two 4" diameter ports, each 5.5 inches long. This will tune the cab to the mid-50's, which should work fine for low-E tuning. We'd get decent fartout resistance and be -2 dB at the 82 Hz first overtone of low-B, which is pretty good. This box design is just a point along a continuum, modify as you see fit.

A note about that Celestion woofer: Celestion uses a very conservative yardstick for X-max (voice coil overhang/2). The yardstick I use (when Klippel testing isn't available) is voice coil overhang/2 + 15%. By this yardstick, the Celestion has 4.6 mm of X-max, which imo is quite good for the price, especially considering that the Celestion also has good top-end extension.

I like to align the woofers vertically and put the ports on the rear of the enclosure, one above the center of the top woofer's magnet, and the other below the center of the bottom woofer's magnet. This allows for some chimney-effect cooling (hot air rises and tends to exit the top port, drawing cool air into the bottom port). Fartout will be your limiting factor, but cooling is a good thing. If you've ever found that you need to turn your amp up higher on the last song or two of the set, that's because your magnets were getting hot and temporarily losing strength... it comes back when they cool down. Chimney effect cooling isn't going to make a huge difference here, but it might help a little.

My suggestion for the internal dimensions would be 27" tall by 16.75" wide by 10.25" deep. This is a golden ratio, and imo you can omit damping material on the walls with this ratio. The benefit is not so much that you save money on damping material, but rather that you don't have that slight loss of low end impact that is the downside of damping material. But use whatever internal dimensions you want.

Finally, I suggest a horizontal window-pane style brace in between the two woofers, as 27" is too long an expanse of cabinet to go unbraced, and window-pane style braces work well.

I haven't worked with this woofer or built a similar cab so this isn't a proven design, but it's what I'd probably do if tasked with building a low-E 210 for around two hundred bucks in parts.

Feel free to change or adapt any of this as you see fit, or to do something completely different. Best of luck with whatever you decide to go with.

 

[T-Bird]

Hi.

Ha ha. Funny thing. So I go to Carvin's website to see the prices of their speakers. So two 10" neo woofers would cost $220. Then, I go to Musician's Friend and Eminence Legend 10" 200 W 8 ohm speaker would be $100 each.
Thinking my thoughts and putting them into a thread before doing any research.

Yeah, but the thing is, You eventually did do the research.
IMO anyway.

That's IME more than most people with an itch for a DIY cab will do.


Then, at some point they realize how much a decent driver(s) costs, but since the itch is very much still there (as well as the materials for the cab ), they choose the cheapest driver(s) they can find.
If the cab in question has a cross-over that seems to cost a lot as well, they either leave that out from the build or choose a generic cheap crossover instead.
The amount and perhaps size of the components may still be the same, but the compatibility of those components when put together is unknown.

Less than what the correct ones would've been that's for sure though.​

The result of the build is then a failure that very effectively discourage them from eveer trying a "fools errand" like that again.

They will also be very eager to let everyone on the 'net know how futile (in their mind) an excercise like that really is, and depending on their discussion board status, some may even choose to believe them.​

And that's IMO a damn shame.
And all just because the unreasonable expectations of being able to duplicate something mass produced CHEAPER, when You have to buy the parts for consumer prices.

If the goal would have been the joy of DIY and all the learning that's involved, it'd been a win, no matter what the (first ) outcome.


In the days of old when only the word of mouth and very few books about building cabs did exist, failures like the ones I mention above were somewhat understandable, but if someone with all the knowledge available now still do the same mistakes over and over again, it sure makes one wonder about the overall ability to learn.

Also in the days of old, when the MI market (and manufacturing location) was different, the labour intensive gear was somewhat expensive.
Doing that labour Yourself, you could well have saved a considerable amount of money.

These days, You'll be lucky to find a commercial replacement speakers for a cab for less than the whole cab costs.


Regards
Sam

 

[N. Kentucky Bass]

I have this crazy idea of creating tubes, like Bazooka car sub-woofers tubes, but stack four speaker tubes vertically. A 15" on the bottom tube, then two 10" speakers and then an 8" speaker on the top. Kind of like a snowman.

I want what some of what you're smoking, dude!