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Double Bass Busted seam help!!!
- Thread starter Dogbertday
- Start date
If he uses hide glue at the right strength, the seam will re-open when the bass is exposed to extreme dryness. If he uses titebond, the joint will hold and he will have an expensive rib crack to repair. And if the seam ever needs to be re-opened (to remove the top) then picking vinegar and (maybe) dental tools will be needed to remove the cured titebond before it can be re glued. I highly recommend that you talk to a few double bass luthiers about their experiences in reversing titebond repairs to understand their point of view. Hide glue isn't about following tradition necessarily. It's still used after 400 years because nothing else works as well.
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Also, this completely untrue. You are looking at the hourly rate for hours of chiselling vs. just steaming open the seam as has been done for centuries.
This^^^. Seams are designed to open before the wood cracks. This issue has been solved by the folks who know the double bass in this thread. Let's move on from the snarky back and forth at this point, please.
Agreed, so let's recap!
1. hide glue comes off with steam or water - therefore you don't have to stress about blowing the repair. If you bungle it a luthier can undo your work in less than an hour
2. Seams are MEANT to open - a permanent repair puts stress on more expensive areas to repair.
3. Hide glue vibrates freely with the wood and does not affect the tone of the instrument the way a solid glue does.
Also, if your sound post hasn't fallen, put your bass back together before it does. If it has, take it in to get it reset and the seam fixed. Use the repair advice for next time.
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Coffee free for over 25 years. I kinda over did it as a younger lad...
On the topic of not knowing things, of which this thread is great example: Just after the "Donnie, please" clip, another clip came up of Buscemi admitting that he didn't even know Donnie had a last name. Which makes sense because it was revealed in scattering of the ashes scene which he was not in.
I though the admin asked that the snarky back and forth come to an end. You don’t seem to listen very well. By the way I updated my profile pic just for you!
This is my last post here. Have yourself a great evening!
The one bass repair video of his I saw is horrifying. He is not too far from me, but I am glad I drove my bass all the way to Houston for repairs! Good BBQ out by him, though.
We may disagree on glue, but your creativity had me laughing out loud for about five minutes. A+ effort!
More thoughts on the "original titebond". It is probably fine for bluegrass instruments being played in the Ozarks, especially outdoors! As well as instruments that are going to be repaired by Jerry. It isn't a nice thing to spring on a future luthier and that is the biggest reason to never use it. This is a photo of ribs from Missouri Hick BBQ, in Cuba, Mo. Not far from Jerry's shop! Very solid.
Tagging on to this thread for info. Caught my bass on a door handle (in the case, so no scratches) during a school visit yesterday and popped a seam on the upper bass bout on my ply. It doesn’t even buzz right now, but I’m crazy busy for the next few weeks and would like to learn how to do this basic repair on my own.
If those in the know could recommend a good repair kit to order including clamps, spatula, etc. I would be most grateful. I would like to keep that around for the next time. I know It’s probably cheaper to go to the hardware store and put it together myself, but time is at a premium right now and something that could be delivered complete would be worth it.
Also, if there is a preferred DIY video that the luthier types recommend for step by step use, kind of a “seam repair for dummies” kind of thing, please link here! Thanks.
If those in the know could recommend a good repair kit to order including clamps, spatula, etc. I would be most grateful. I would like to keep that around for the next time. I know It’s probably cheaper to go to the hardware store and put it together myself, but time is at a premium right now and something that could be delivered complete would be worth it.
Also, if there is a preferred DIY video that the luthier types recommend for step by step use, kind of a “seam repair for dummies” kind of thing, please link here! Thanks.
Kolstein has one - not super cheap:
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The tough to find part are the dowel clamps, you can get three or four here for $8.95 each - that is what I did. I figure if a repair needs more than that, I take it in. Since I am near a good shop with reasonable prices, I take mine in for everything. I've seen people use these instead of tape to get through a gig as well!
Gluing clamp, wood, single, double bass
I somehow ended up with an earlier version of the Kolstein DIY seam repair kit. The old version of the clamps were made from lignum vitae and quite nice, but the formaldehyde-laden bottled hide glue was worse than useless.
What I’d recommend is one hardware store quick-adjust clamp for every three inches of open seam and Knox unflavored gelatin, which really isn’t much different from HHG.
A fancy double boiler isn’t required. My glue pot is a glass baby food jar I heat in a pan of water. Apply glue to the seam with a razor blade, flex the seam to distribute glue, clamp, and allow any squeeze-out to gel before rubbing off with a wet finger.
What I’d recommend is one hardware store quick-adjust clamp for every three inches of open seam and Knox unflavored gelatin, which really isn’t much different from HHG.
A fancy double boiler isn’t required. My glue pot is a glass baby food jar I heat in a pan of water. Apply glue to the seam with a razor blade, flex the seam to distribute glue, clamp, and allow any squeeze-out to gel before rubbing off with a wet finger.
@KUNGfuSHERIFF What do you think of the clamps in the second link Damon posted? They seem reasonably priced and similar to what i usually see in repair shops. Also, when people are talking about Knox gelatin, is this a grocery or hardware store kind of thing?
Where I live, it's a grocery store kind of thing. For the components needed to make spool clamps, it's hardware. For the time required to make clamps, I think buying the pre-made ones at $9.00 a pop is a better deal.
Awesome, thanks! How many should I get, 4 or 5 or so? Right now i have about 10" of open seam, but it's on the new standard ply and the fit is so good I wouldn't even know it was popped if i hadn't heard it and it doesn't buzz when I play.
