I’ve been playing P-basses and Jazz basses for 35 years, they are very comfortable and easy to play. Recently I joined a band where both guitarists play Explorers, so I got one to match, a relatively cheap Korean made Hamer. It looks great, but WOW is this thing uncomfortable to play! Does anyone have any advice on how to make this thing feel better? The neck is huge, the strap button placement makes me have to reach really far with my left arm, I just kind of hate it. But I want to match with the rest of the band. I’m not afraid to heavily modify this bass to make it easier to play, I’ve thought about moving the strap button further up on the neck (has anyone done this? I can’t imagine it’s good for the instrument but I dunno, I’ve just never seen anyone do it before). I’ve also considered shaving the neck down to make it thinner and even routing out some weight relief holes in the back. Does anyone have any advice? My back and shoulders are killing me!
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Can an Explorer be comfortable?
- Thread starter stinkmaster
- Start date
aesthetics above ergonomics... something that Gibson have often been guilty of: Thunderbird, Les Paul bass...
I love their look... but I don't think I'd ever gig one regularly.
I love their look... but I don't think I'd ever gig one regularly.
I love explorers. I have 3 of them. 2 basses and a guitar. Explorers can be uncomfortable, but they definitely don't have to be. It's simple (bad) design choices that make almost all production explorers balance bad and have a long reach to the first few frets.
The balance issue is easily solved if your bass is a bolt on neck. Just move the strap pin to the front of the neck pocket. (Just behind the neck) Preferable with a strap lock like the Dunlop dual design ones. This drastically changes the balance point and will make the worst neck diver have the headstock pointing to the sky, and make it "feel" lighter too.
The reach and weight issue is much harder to solve. For some reason, Gibson and other manufacturers think an explorer bass should look just like their guitar version, so they place the bridge near the middle of the body... This pushes the neck out and makes for the long reach and bad balance, pushing the headstock weight further out from the body.
I ended up building myself one from scratch because no company (to me) has made one right. I ended up with an explorer thats 6.5 lbs, balances great, has a comfortable forearm carve, and an easy reach to the first frets. Made the body, and used a neck from a Jackson Ellefson bass
-Basswood body
-Gotoh Resolite tuners
-Strap pin on end of the neck pocket
-Bridge placed far back on body
-Sand down top edge for a forearm bevel
In the first picture you can see the bridge and strap button placement.
The balance issue is easily solved if your bass is a bolt on neck. Just move the strap pin to the front of the neck pocket. (Just behind the neck) Preferable with a strap lock like the Dunlop dual design ones. This drastically changes the balance point and will make the worst neck diver have the headstock pointing to the sky, and make it "feel" lighter too.
The reach and weight issue is much harder to solve. For some reason, Gibson and other manufacturers think an explorer bass should look just like their guitar version, so they place the bridge near the middle of the body... This pushes the neck out and makes for the long reach and bad balance, pushing the headstock weight further out from the body.
I ended up building myself one from scratch because no company (to me) has made one right. I ended up with an explorer thats 6.5 lbs, balances great, has a comfortable forearm carve, and an easy reach to the first frets. Made the body, and used a neck from a Jackson Ellefson bass
-Basswood body
-Gotoh Resolite tuners
-Strap pin on end of the neck pocket
-Bridge placed far back on body
-Sand down top edge for a forearm bevel
In the first picture you can see the bridge and strap button placement.
Mine has a set neck, and the strap button is already on the heel. I’m not opposed to routing out some weight relief holes on the back, but I think that would make the neck dive even worse. I did try a wider strap and that helps a little bit
Definitely try some lightweight tuners then. Hipshot Ultralights(50 grams) or Gotoh Resolites (40 grams).
That’s a great idea, hadn’t thought of that. Thanks!
I just looked at those Hamer explorers and they're guilty of bad bridge placement too. That's going to be hard to counteract.
If you're open to buying a different bass... I saw this on eBay and reverb....
Fernandes BXB-55 White Explorer Bass Made in Japan 1980s Used | eBay Fernandes BXB-55 White Explorer Bass Made in Japan 1980s Used | eBay
Great medium scale basses, I have one. Says this one is 8lbs, and would probably just need to move the strap button to balance great.
If you're open to buying a different bass... I saw this on eBay and reverb....
Fernandes BXB-55 White Explorer Bass Made in Japan 1980s Used | eBay Fernandes BXB-55 White Explorer Bass Made in Japan 1980s Used | eBay
Great medium scale basses, I have one. Says this one is 8lbs, and would probably just need to move the strap button to balance great.
here it is with my Jbass and Ripper in the background
Maybe it works with certain body geometries? According to John Entwistle IIRC, you could rest your elbow on the "wing" and it becomes comfortable.
Some Gibson designs are not as much "unergonomic" as "ergonomic in a peculiar way". The other classic "uncomfortable" guitar, Flying V, was allegedly to be played in the classical seating position. The SG was also probably a pragmatic design to increase higher fret reach, and only gained its "devil horn" imagery as a byproduct.
Some Gibson designs are not as much "unergonomic" as "ergonomic in a peculiar way". The other classic "uncomfortable" guitar, Flying V, was allegedly to be played in the classical seating position. The SG was also probably a pragmatic design to increase higher fret reach, and only gained its "devil horn" imagery as a byproduct.
- Apr 18, 2008
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- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
As a followup, I find Explorers (and similar) especially comfortable and ergonomic when playing seated. The crook in the bottom edge is right around where the center of gravity is, and it actually pushes the bridge a little further away from your body than the standing-with-a-strap position. And the lack of the upper body digging into your rib cage is also really nice.
- Mar 13, 2008
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- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
My Explorer, it's from a limited run Epiphone did for AMS a few years back, unlike the early 2000's version this is a 34" scale bass, the neck is a little bigger than their current Thunderbird, but it plays pretty nice. I find it pretty comfy to play both seated and standing up, I use a 2" leather strap and keep the length somewhat short, the large rear portion of the 'bout takes care of balance, this one has a pre amp in it and is quite versatile tone wise.
Now that I think of it, maybe the main reason I've never experienced any neck dive with any Thunderbird is that I subconsciously use its wing as an elbow rest.
The Nikki Sixx handrest only works if you play with a plectrum near the bridge. My solution works for any technique except for palm muting, which can be done by using the whole bridge as the Nikki Sixx handrest.
The Nikki Sixx handrest only works if you play with a plectrum near the bridge. My solution works for any technique except for palm muting, which can be done by using the whole bridge as the Nikki Sixx handrest.
godofthunder59
Life is short, buy the bass.
- Feb 19, 2006
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- Endorsing Cataldo Basses, Whirlwind products, Thunderbucker pickups
Those Korean Hamer standards have a beefy neck for sure but I always found the Explorer shape very comfortable to play.
I have one like Tbird1958 pictured above. Its a blast to play, and balances better than my Thunderbird.
The only truly comfortable solution:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/WalkUpStand--k-and-m-performer-walk-up-guitar-stand-electric
Or, buy a lefty Explorer, flip it upside down, and string it as a righty.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/WalkUpStand--k-and-m-performer-walk-up-guitar-stand-electric
Or, buy a lefty Explorer, flip it upside down, and string it as a righty.
Last edited:
- Apr 18, 2008
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I've owned a few explorers over the years, this is my current one.
The Dean is a big departure from a standard explorer, the body is smaller and the 24 fret neck is slim and fast.
I'm seriously thinking about modding it. I have a couple of sets of Epiphone Thunderbird pickups and bridge/tailpieces, maybe add a metalflake finish, or even a figured mape cap...
The Dean is a big departure from a standard explorer, the body is smaller and the 24 fret neck is slim and fast.
I'm seriously thinking about modding it. I have a couple of sets of Epiphone Thunderbird pickups and bridge/tailpieces, maybe add a metalflake finish, or even a figured mape cap...
Had the same problem with my T bird. A longer strap definitely helped but it’s not perfect. I wasn’t having problems reaching the low end of the neck, but it’s certainly uncomfortable.
my first GAS was the Alembic version, first real bass was the Ibanez Destroyer (back in the early 80s, red one with the cream split P pickup). Never had an issue with function or comfort... but the only other basses I spent time with were a Ric 4001 and the 70s Christmas Catalog Harmony I took lessons on for 6 months.
