Greetings, I was wondering if someone could tell me the difference in capacitors? I'm in the process of modding my Squier CV 60's P bass and I ordered a wiring kit from eBay that is coming with .22k capacitor. However, I was just informed that the original '62 P basses were wired with a .1uf? Not that I'm overly concerned with the '62 wiring ... I might be a little ... just wanted to know if the differences between the two and/or what other fellow bassists have had experience with.
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Capacitor difference??
- Thread starter paddy_85
- Start date
I'm thinking the .22k must be a error or I'm reading it wrong. I overlooked it during the buy because I was more excited about the CTS 250k pots.
I'll post what it is when I receive the item.
Thanks for the reply.
I'll post what it is when I receive the item.
Thanks for the reply.
OK, let's clear some things up:
1) The OP may be referring to a .022 microfarad capacitor, which is a standard guitar capacitor, not bass.
2) As stated above, many basses use a .047 microfarad capacitor, which is a standard bass capacitor for conventional passive tone circuits
3) The frequency inverse to value is right on. I prefer a .033 capacitor, especially if there is only one tone control or on a bridge pickup tone control, in order to flavor the upper mids a little more.
4) The CTS 250kohm pots are standard for most standard (not overwound) bass pickups that measure @ 12kohm or less DC resistance at the leads.
If it turns out to have a .022 guitar capacitor, you can:
1) play it the way it is, if you like it;
2) change the cap completely; starting with a .047 as a conventional starting point for further experimentation; or
3) add another capcitor in parallel to fine tune your tone, anything from a .01 to a .1, depending on how much highs you want to roll off.
There are those aficionados who swear the different type or manufacture of capacitor makes a difference; orange drops, bumble bees, etc. I have never been able to hear a difference in the brand or make (ceramic, paper, mylar, etc.), with the only caveat is that all capacitors are inherently unstable and will deteriorate over time, whereas pots are very stable if taken care of.
Yeah, probably more info than needed to know....
1) The OP may be referring to a .022 microfarad capacitor, which is a standard guitar capacitor, not bass.
2) As stated above, many basses use a .047 microfarad capacitor, which is a standard bass capacitor for conventional passive tone circuits
3) The frequency inverse to value is right on. I prefer a .033 capacitor, especially if there is only one tone control or on a bridge pickup tone control, in order to flavor the upper mids a little more.
4) The CTS 250kohm pots are standard for most standard (not overwound) bass pickups that measure @ 12kohm or less DC resistance at the leads.
If it turns out to have a .022 guitar capacitor, you can:
1) play it the way it is, if you like it;
2) change the cap completely; starting with a .047 as a conventional starting point for further experimentation; or
3) add another capcitor in parallel to fine tune your tone, anything from a .01 to a .1, depending on how much highs you want to roll off.
There are those aficionados who swear the different type or manufacture of capacitor makes a difference; orange drops, bumble bees, etc. I have never been able to hear a difference in the brand or make (ceramic, paper, mylar, etc.), with the only caveat is that all capacitors are inherently unstable and will deteriorate over time, whereas pots are very stable if taken care of.
Yeah, probably more info than needed to know....
Thanks again line6man and iiipopes!
I'm wondering now if they have a generic message with all their wiring items because the item title reads 'Fender® USA "Vintage" Style Wiring Kit P PRECISION BASS'
I have attached the image that accompanies the item.
I hope I'm not getting a guitar wiring kit
I'm wondering now if they have a generic message with all their wiring items because the item title reads 'Fender® USA "Vintage" Style Wiring Kit P PRECISION BASS'
I have attached the image that accompanies the item.
I hope I'm not getting a guitar wiring kit
Attachments
There are differences in caps but as far as I can tell not between any "modern" caps. Any modern plastic film cap will work just fine (radio shack!) Caps that DO make a difference are ceramic disks (often have high leakage) and some "vintage" ones like the old paper and wax jobbies. They were crap when they were NEW caps! I can't believe the prices some people are asking for this "vintage" nonsense.
Another thing, especially with caps is the tolerance ranges.
ie, your standard ceramic cap is rated between -20% and +80% !
+1. Absurdity!
Especially when you consider that gibson takes a cap that cost a $1+ or so and wraps it in black plastic and calls it a reissued black beauty, cost $40. Why do they do this, because there are people willing to pay for it.
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Cap composition does not make any audible difference in this application. Never has, never will. The blind tests support the Physics, 100% of the time.
Likewise, any properly-working B250K pot is a B250K pot.
Tolerances can be pretty far off of these components sometimes, and to the extent that they are, there can be some slight differences -- but otherwise, the audio benefits of one over the other are completely imaginary.
If it isn't broken, don't fix it.
Thanks again line6man and iiipopes!
I'm wondering now if they have a generic message with all their wiring items because the item title reads 'Fender® USA "Vintage" Style Wiring Kit P PRECISION BASS'
I have attached the image that accompanies the item.
I hope I'm not getting a guitar wiring kit
I have bought that pot before and it is a .1 microFarad cap. It will cut all of the highs and most of the mids out.
I use a .033 microFarad cap on my Jazz because it sounds better when in series. I use a .047 on my P.
On my P/J I have a combination of a .022 and a .047.
Ric5
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- Jan 29, 2008
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- I like 5, 8, 10, and 12 string basses
I agree ... .022 is for guitar and not bass. I also don't hear a difference between different brands of capacitors. But I do with pots.
Thanks for all the replies.
I've definitely learned a thing or two about capacitors.
Now ... the waiting game.
I've definitely learned a thing or two about capacitors.
Now ... the waiting game.
I know this post is a few months old, but I wanted to add that there are also 0.068 µF capacitors, as well. Obviously they fit in between the 0.1 "thoomb-thoomb" caps, and the standard 0.047s that cut some of the over-brights while keeping mids. The 0.068 is nice for blues, or if you wish you could turn your tone knob down "a little bit more".
Also, you can add an "always on" (hard wired from hot to ground) 0.001 µF cap to skim off the highest, hiss frequencies, and tighten up the sound a little.
Also, you can add an "always on" (hard wired from hot to ground) 0.001 µF cap to skim off the highest, hiss frequencies, and tighten up the sound a little.
You can go to mouser or digikey or Newark and get any cap in just about any increment you like with good tolerances (5-10%) to fine tune to your hearts content. As said before a cap is a cap electronically speaking, don't buy the vintage hype crap. If you do buy into it let me know. Ill hook you up with ultra tight tolerance hand picked, calibrated black label caps for only $600 each!
unless you like a lot of bias towards the treble spectrum ?
With my NP4 equipped "P"-
.033 is my preference w/500k pots- Puts my controls in the
middle "5" ( 1-10), I figure my amp can do some of the
work, since it was expensive ! GK Neo410/700RBII
PC
Thanx mad matt.. Wondering about the PJ set-up you use. a .22 and a .47.. would like to try it.. where would I find a drawing for that set-up?
PP
PP
