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Carvin R600

#22
I have a older BR610. Nice amp!

BR610.jpg
 
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#23
bassicallybob said:
The only reason I'm looking to bridge is the fact the amp is only good to 250w @ 4ohms without bridging.
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Then you likely need an additional cabinet for your loud rehearsals. Running 250 watts into a 210 cabinet is reasonable. 300 - 400 watts might cause damage even to a premium quality 210 cab. I wouldn't run bridged--that's for people running big cabinets like 810s. I would just run the amp full range with 1 cab on amp 1. Run a second cabinet on amp 2 if you don't get enough volume.
 
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#29
-Down to 2 ohms
(per seperate channel) in "stereo/biamp" mode.
-Down to 4 ohms
(both channels combined) in
"bridge/full range" mode.

Does that make much sense?
I'm asking because I'm never really sure anymore. Hahaha.
 
#30
bassicallybob said:
I only own one cabinet at the moment *shrug*
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*shrug* back atcha!! You do realise, I hope, that I’m trying to help you here?

Then just use one channel and parallel the power amp’s inputs. If you must run in bridge only use a SpeakOn cable to connect to the speaker cabinet. Using the 1/4” Phone outputs could cause damage to your amplifier.
 
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#31
NOVAX said:
-Down to 2 ohms
(per seperate channel) in "stereo/biamp" mode.
-Down to 4 ohms
(both channels combined) in
"bridge/full range" mode.

Does that make much sense?
I'm asking because I'm never really sure anymore. Hahaha.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's generally how it works. If each channel is stable down to 4 ohms, the minimum load for bridging would typically be 8 ohms.
 
#32
BassmanPaul said:
*shrug* back atcha!! You do realise, I hope, that I’m trying to help you here?

Then just use one channel and parallel the power amp’s inputs. If you must run in bridge only use a Speakon cable to connect to the speaker cabinet. Using the 1/4” Phone outputs could cause damage to your amplifier.
Click to expand...

AFAIK you don't have that option with this head.
 
#34
Richard Lindsey said:
Yes, that's generally how it works. If each channel is stable down to 4 ohms, the minimum load for bridging would typically be 8 ohms.
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Thus, if each channel can go down to 2, bridge away at 4.
I had an F series Carvin power amp that only went to 4 ohms per channel and warned most vehemently about not bridging below 8 ohms. I followed the rules, but I'm not sure the previous owner(s) did and guess what? That's right, it blew up! Rattling puffs of death smoke and everything.
 
#35
BassmanPaul said:
There is a dedicated Speakon socket for Bridge mode.

Cable is wired +1 and -1 on both ends - a standard cable.

Edit: To bid Bob welcome to Talk Bass! :)
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I meant the "parallel the power amp's inputs" part. Not doable on this amp.

As far as the Speakon connector goes, I think it depends on which series R600 it is. There were at least three. I think the Series I can't be bridged at all, the Series II can be bridged but doesn't have a Speakon connector (that is, only has two dedicated 1/4" bridging outputs), and the Series III has the Speakon.

Or something like that. No substitute for actually looking at the specific amp the OP bought.
 
#36
BassmanPaul said:
*shrug* back atcha!! You do realise, I hope, that I’m trying to help you here?

Then just use one channel and parallel the power amp’s inputs. If you must run in bridge only use a SpeakOn cable to connect to the speaker cabinet. Using the 1/4” Phone outputs could cause damage to your amplifier.
Click to expand...

Oh I appreciate the info my dude, no attitude intended! Thanks for your input
 
#37
bassicallybob said:
The only reason I'm looking to bridge is the fact the amp is only good to 250w @ 4ohms without bridging. That *should* be enough for most settings, but certainly not all, especially a particularly loud rehearsal space.
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If your rehearsals are that loud, more speakers are going to help a lot more than more amp. 250w will probably drive the cab you have now to its mechanical limits. 400w is the electrical rating of the cabinet. The speakers will fart out well before that.
 
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#39
bassicallybob said:
The cabinet is rated to 400W RMS, and I've pushed it pretty hard with a 500W head in the past without fail.
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That's cool. My point is that you're not gonna get much louder with one cab and a bigger amp, compared to the same amp and two cabs, before the single cab gets into trouble. I've done gigs in a small space where I brought a 210 and a 500W head, and had an idiot (or deaf) guitarist bring a half stack (to essentially a coffee shop) and I set the amp to the max the cab would go before it farted out. ISTR that cab's rated about the same as yours.

Using a 500W amp does not mean a guaranteed 500w going to the cabinet all the time. Use your ears, the cab will tell you when you can't push it any harder.
 
#40
okcrum said:
That's cool. My point is that you're not gonna get much louder with one cab and a bigger amp, compared to the same amp and two cabs, before the single cab gets into trouble. I've done gigs in a small space where I brought a 210 and a 500W head, and had an idiot (or deaf) guitarist bring a half stack (to essentially a coffee shop) and I set the amp to the max the cab would go before it farted out. ISTR that cab's rated about the same as yours.

Using a 500W amp does not mean a guaranteed 500w going to the cabinet all the time. Use your ears, the cab will tell you when you can't push it any harder.
Click to expand...
Yeah I definitely get where you're coming from, I'm buying this in a pinch where my old head crapped out on me, and I have multiple shows coming up without much cash to spend. I'm a bit n00bish with bi-amp systems and impedence, so I had to ask a few n00bie questions.
 

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