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Carvin SB5000 / SB4000 Roll Call...Part 7!

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I sold most of mine in a fit of stupidity. Hopefully I land one of these jobs and I'll be back in the game soon. That SB5000 is on the short list but a rig comes first.

I can dig that. I'm toying with the idea of selling a couple pedals that I never thought I'd part with to pick up a couple others. lol Fortunately I'm set on rigs, so aside from a couple last pedals to finish my main board, a SB5000 is at the top of my short list. It's tied between that and an NXT 5-string. ;)

Its a Gayle Wind custom strap. Theyre a litle pricey, but worth it:D

Thanks for the info, I'll check them out. :)

5sg.
 
:D

Christmas.jpg
 
videomagician said:
It is getting harder and harder not to order an SB5000 with some of the new options...

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Ok, I waited seven threads for the SB, for someone else to come forward, but I can't hold it anymore.

Am I the only one that does not like Carvin's blocks? They are too small!
 
macribas said:
Ok, I waited seven threads for the SB, for someone else to come forward, but I can't hold it anymore.

Am I the only one that does not like Carvin's blocks? They are too small!

Agreed. They use the same blocks on four, five, and six string necks, I think. Looks silly on the fives and sixes.

I have a five with silly looking blocks.
 
Handyman said:
Has anyone else removed their saddle lock screws? They don't seem to have any function other than making bridge adjustments more complicated than necessary.
I haven't removed mine. I thought they were to hold the saddles in place to avoid unwanted adjustments due to vibration.

New bass note:

I got two gigs in over the weekend with the new SB5000 fretless and I am digging it much. With the Maple capped, chambered Swamp Ash it has a different tone and frequency range than my fretted Alder SB5000. While I don't like the sound of a chambered Alder SB that is fretted, it works with this fretless/wood combination.

I do notice that I have to increase the input gain on my amp about 25% with this bass. I might need to pull the plate and check and see where the preamp volume pot is set. Also, the volume knobs are wired backwards. I don't know if that was at the request of the person who originally custom ordered this bass or if it was an accident in production.

Funny side note, I didn't have the bass out of the box for more than 5 minutes before I dinged it, hehe. I was putting on some straplocks so I could use my old straps and bobbled it. Chipped a tiny piece of finish off the headstock. I figured that accomplished two things. One, I can't return the bass under the 10 day trial. Which is a good thing since its a gift and I love it. And two, it got me immediately past the stage of babying it since the first scratch is out of the way :D

I did a little tweaking on the setup and made it more to my tastes. Next I need to get some DR strings on there and it will be complete. Great bass. Light, plays well, sounds good and looks stunning under the stage lights. Really brings out the colors. The first gig I was a little embarrassed at how pretty the bass was on stage :) I usually have more plain basses and this one is definitely an attention getter once the lights hit it.

I've found that a lot of times the prettiest basses aren't the best sounding basses, but this one is definitely an exception. Looks great and sounds great as well. And the GF is extremely happy she finally found a present that I'm smitten with :D
 
I haven't removed mine. I thought they were to hold the saddles in place to avoid unwanted adjustments due to vibration.

That's the intention, though I've never had a saddle move around on its own with any of my basses before. Somehow I'm thinking they'll stay put on my SB5000, too. :p

For the record, I also think the saddle lock screw on my G&L is pretty silly, as well.

Also, the volume knobs are wired backwards. I don't know if that was at the request of the person who originally custom ordered this bass or if it was an accident in production.

I'm guessing this was an oops in the factory. They also get the pan pot wired backwards with their neck through basses fairly frequently, too. You'd think this would be on some sort of inspection checklist or something like that.
 
Has anyone else removed their saddle lock screws? They don't seem to have any function other than making bridge adjustments more complicated than necessary.
Their function isn't to keep the saddles from "moving around" per se... it's to lock the bridge up tight as if it were literally one big forged piece to reduce absorption of string vibration in all the "connections" introduced by all the adjustment capabilities.

This theory definitely holds water as other manufacturers also offer this, and, some luthiers will literally prefer a simpler bridge design over a more complex/adjustable one for this same reason (which is actually where the locking features came from... this feedback from luthiers and their customers).

Is it night/day? IMHO, no.

Is it worth taking them out? IMHO, no. I don't adjust my bridge hardly ever, so any benefit they present, I'll enjoy.

About the only thing I adjust with any regularity on an instrument is the truss rod (which is really the way it should be unless you're going through a phase of string/action experimentation, in which case just leave them loose until you settle on a config and then lock them tight again).
 
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