That's very nice. My SB4K is active and I'm thinking of going with the Black on Alder and passive for my next build. Since I find that I'm playing it passive almost all the time.
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Carvin SB5000 / SB4000 Roll Call...Part 8!
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
- Start date
That's very nice. My SB4K is active and I'm thinking of going with the Black on Alder and passive for my next build. Since I find that I'm playing it passive almost all the time.
My SB4000 is hands-down the most acoustically resonant bass I own.
Unplugged, the tone of this bass is bright, rich and snappy in all the right places as if the alder body and maple neck were part of two of the happiest trees on the planet.
I am just curious if mine is the only anomaly in this regard.
Do you find this to be the case with the unplugged tone of your SB?
Cheers!
Unplugged, the tone of this bass is bright, rich and snappy in all the right places as if the alder body and maple neck were part of two of the happiest trees on the planet.
I am just curious if mine is the only anomaly in this regard.
Do you find this to be the case with the unplugged tone of your SB?
Cheers!
Question for those of you who have had multiple SBs - does the active/passive circuit have any effect on the passive tone, compared to if you just get a passive SB4000? I'm planning on ordering one this fall, and I normally prefer passive basses, but I'm wondering if the active/passive option is a win/win or if it will alter the tone even when in passive mode.
I wasn't going to pollute your for sale ad with extraneous talk, but that's what this thread is for, so: bass4worship - say it ain't so!
Yes they're for sale but I'm holding on to my XB75. Not gigging so I'm just keeping one.
I wonder why they have the default for the SB4000 to be passive and it's active for the SB5000.
Speaking of active and passive, I accidentally left my bass plugged into live pedals all night and now both 9v are dead. I remember reading in a past SB thread about how people were having battery replacement issues due to different size batteries (or something like that). Would someone with direct knowledge care to recap the 9v battery situation for me? Thanks!
Carvin has been doing that since the LB20 was offered as a passive form of the active LB70, but there was never an LB25 or 26 passive 5 or 6 string version. Later, the B5 had to be ordered as an active bass, but the B4 could be passive.
Finally, with the B40 and B50, the 5-sting version could be ordered as passive. For many years, people have wondered why the 5-string basses had to come in active versions, and I don't think Carvin ever really gave a good answer for it. I think it was simply a marketing decision.
Sometimes you hear this mentality out there that 4 strings = old school = passive, and 5+ strings = modern = active. I don't think it makes any sense, but I've heard it. Someone was circulating a youtube vid a while back where the guy was saying everyone should own 2 basses, a passive 4 and an active 5. Still doesn't explain why Carvin wouldn't even offer a passive option on 5ers. Curious.
Just buy quality name brand batteries and you should be fine. The problem with 9V batteries is there doesn't seem to be an industry standard size. If the battery is small, just add a piece of folded paper or whatever it takes to make up the space.
I decided to send it back to Carvin. They will probably switch out the pre and jack. They r paying for shipping so I will let them fix it!I can't wait to get it back!
I just got this bass back today. The hum is gone. As I suspected it was a grounding/wiring issue which Carvin corrected. The crackling from the jack is still there even though the invoice says it was "replaced".
I guess I'll take it to my repair guy to get that taken care of. I'm soooooo not impressed with Carvin's QC! 
I don't 4see a second purchase. 
I just got this bass back today. The hum is gone. As I suspected it was a grounding/wiring issue which Carvin corrected. The crackling from the jack is still there even though the invoice says it was "replaced".
Call them and let them know about your dissatisfaction. I've done it...make them respond. Make them, make it right.
So I'm looking, perhaps, at what specs to spec out a new carvin sb5k. I looking for a nice round warm bottom end as I mainly play reggae. I was thinking of a koa body but I don't know. I''ve never played a koa bodied anything. I have heard the koa sb5's are real nice sounding but which sb5k's don't sound good right? Right now I play a squier pro tone precision 5 so it's got a swamp ash body, maple/rosewood neck. It sounds very nice, but I want a new bass. There's so many options....what combos of wood would you suggest?
Hi All.
Been Gassing for a SB4000 for a while.
Pull the trigger today.
I went all out.
SB4000
Bookmatched Figured Claro Walnit Top.
Maple / Alder Body
5 Piece All Maple Neck / Rosewood Fingerboard.
Headstock Matched Body Finish.
Abalone Dot Inlays.
J99A Single Coil / AC Active / Passive Electronics.
Gold Hardware.
Gold Plated Logo
No Pickguard
Ivory Graph Tech TUSQ Nut.
The wait begins.
Finally got my 5k this weekend! Beautiful craftsmanship and build. Specs were spot on. So far, I've had only 2 chances to plug it in and give it a go. Seems like it plays very well, but I have some questions about the electronics.
Here are the issues I've come up with so far:
-Out of the box it needs some set up, truss rod, intonation (not abnormal with shipping and different climates).
-When I opened the case, I noticed that the B saddle doesn't have an adjustment screw. Looked in the case, just to be sure it didn't fall off when being rattled around on the UPS truck, and...nothing. Looks like QC missed one there.
-The tone knob seems to not be quite as effective as I had hoped. Full up, its bright and clear. But nothing changes (virtually nothing, barely noticeable) until I roll it back 95%. Then it's dark and thick as it should be. But I barely roll on the tone and it gets back to very bright.
-Going from one master volume on my old P bass to two volume controls to think about makes swelling in and out pretty tricky...I guess I'll be stuck to my pedalboard for that.
I'd love to hear your thoughts...Should the tone knob be more responsive than it is? I already emailed my rep and told him about the saddle screw.
Here are the issues I've come up with so far:
-Out of the box it needs some set up, truss rod, intonation (not abnormal with shipping and different climates).
-When I opened the case, I noticed that the B saddle doesn't have an adjustment screw. Looked in the case, just to be sure it didn't fall off when being rattled around on the UPS truck, and...nothing. Looks like QC missed one there.
-The tone knob seems to not be quite as effective as I had hoped. Full up, its bright and clear. But nothing changes (virtually nothing, barely noticeable) until I roll it back 95%. Then it's dark and thick as it should be. But I barely roll on the tone and it gets back to very bright.
-Going from one master volume on my old P bass to two volume controls to think about makes swelling in and out pretty tricky...I guess I'll be stuck to my pedalboard for that.
I'd love to hear your thoughts...Should the tone knob be more responsive than it is? I already emailed my rep and told him about the saddle screw.
Intonation out of the box was the one sticking point I've found so far... it was pretty bad. Set up fine now and should be okay moving forward, but the saddles did have to move almost all the way back...
5sg.
5sg.
