Clank effect

[icarus88]

maybe some super slinky strings, play with aggression, turn up treble. Are you using pick or fingers...? I would learn the basics of setup and intonation.
I like low action i usually straighten the neck out flat, tune up to key EADG, then check it at the 12th fret..They gotta be the same pitch at that fret. If sharp or flat, then you adjust bridge saddles and keep checking till open strings EADG and 12th fret on each string match..it sounds confusing to some but after a few times you be doing it without a prob...Get a cheap guitar setup kit while your at it...good luck!

Fingers

 

[bigdaddybass12]

How much relief does the neck have? Less relief may help IMO depending what you have it set to now.

If you are trying to get a Steve Harris style clank, he strikes the strings at a more downward angle towards the bass rather than plucking upwards.

Yes on this, I am a “down” player. I like the sound but it can increase fret buzz because of the direction the string is moving.

 

[H K]

Here means where i live!!!

I see. OK, I will help you on your quest for The Clank.

What strings are you using, and how old are they?

 

[icarus88]

I see. OK, I will help you on your quest for The Clank.

What strings are you using, and how old are they?

It's been 4 days since I got the strings . Rotosound rs66le ( g string is Ernie ball)

 

[fhm555]

From what you describe, and what you want to achieve, I honestly think the problem might be your technique.

What is your string action, as in the distance from top of 12th fret to bottom of your low E string (unfretted)?

Ideally would use layered paper, picks, or a hex key of a specific measurement, to slide in between the string and the fret, for most precise measurement, rather than measuring with a ruler.

Here’s your string to fret measuring tool. Use it as a go/no go gauge. If you want a gap of .010, use the .009 and .011 leaves. If the.009 clears and the .011 does not, you are GTG.

Craftsman 6-8/9 in. L X 2-3/4 in. W 32-Blade Feeler Gauge 0.04 in. Silver 1 pc - Ace Hardware

Choose the 32 blade feeler gauge when you need to precisely measure the clearance between two parts. The durable and corrosion resistant stainless-steel blades range from 0.015" - 0.035" for a wide range of applications.Find the 32-BLADE FEELER GAUGE at Ace.

www.acehardware.com

 

[Drop1]

It's a balancing act between neck relief and saddle height. Neck relief is easy enough. Tighten enough that the strings lay flat on all the frets with the first and last fret held down then very slightly loosen the truss till there is maybe a gap big enough for a piece of paper to slide in at the 12th fret while holding the first and last fret down at the same time. It can be a TINY gap. So small you may not even be able to really see it. I tap on the string at the 12th fret with the first and last frets half and listen fir the sound of the string tapping the fret. The gap on mine is maybe 0.006". TINY!!!

Once you have that, then go to the saddles. Fret the 16th fret and lower the saddle until it buzzes out, then very slightly raise the saddle until it stops buzzing. Fret the 17z 18th, 19 and so on frets near the body one at a time to make sure none are getting choked out. If they are, VERY slightly raise the saddle until they don't buzz. Your action is now as low is it will go without buzzing out (unless you have high or low frets somewhere .)

From here I go to the nut. You'll want guages to set the nut. You can get feeler gauages SUPER cheap at any auto parts store. I cut my nut so that there is 0.015" between the string and frist fret with no frets held down. You "can" go lower, but this set up is already lower than many people will be able to play without unintentional buzzing out. 0.015 let's me make the open strings buzz , IF I WANT, but it's still high enough to play clean as well

You don't need tools for the first 2 steps. It's very easy to do. Watch a couple videos. That alone should get you into a place where you can play clean or clank away at will. You may even find you need to slightly add a little neck relief or saddle height to play clean at all unless you have a very light touch.

Just remember this, if it's buzzing near the head stock, add neck relief , if it's buzzing near the body (bottom of the neck) add saddle height.

It's all very very simple once you understand it.
Don't be scared to slightly go too low. Going a little too low is how you find the limit. Go too low intentionally and then raising the saddles or adding neck relief is the easiest way I've found to get as low an action as possible without tolls for measuring.

 

[icarus88]

I think it was a mistake to buy heavy gauge strings, I play with a super light touch, the string hardly vibrates, I don't even see that they are vibrating


Strings hardly stretch

 

[icarus88]

There is already an imbalance in terms of volume, the D string is quieter than the others, the G string is very different because it is Ernie Ball, it's a ridiculous thing

 

[StevieMac]

If your have heavy strings and a light touch, you should be able to get the action nice and low once you get the neck relief sorted out.

 

[Bass4ThePublic]

Just watch this, buy the tools he has and take the time to do a setup.

 

[onda'bass]

Don’t gooch it

 

[StevieMac]

Don’t gooch it

LOL!! Definitely don't do THAT.

 

[Iristone]

Does your bass sound and play "normal" as is? I used to look for fret clank too, but now I prefer to set up my bass for clean buzz-free sound. When I want "clank", I play with a heavier, more downward motion. You could check out John Entwistle's video on the "typewriter" technique.

 

[5StringBlues]

Just get your technique down and you will be a regular Colonel Klank.

 

[Nuisance]

It's a balancing act between neck relief and saddle height. Neck relief is easy enough. Tighten enough that the strings lay flat on all the frets with the first and last fret held down then very slightly loosen the truss till there is maybe a gap big enough for a piece of paper to slide in at the 12th fret while holding the first and last fret down at the same time. It can be a TINY gap. So small you may not even be able to really see it. I tap on the string at the 12th fret with the first and last frets half and listen fir the sound of the string tapping the fret. The gap on mine is maybe 0.006". TINY!!!

Once you have that, then go to the saddles. Fret the 16th fret and lower the saddle until it buzzes out, then very slightly raise the saddle until it stops buzzing. Fret the 17z 18th, 19 and so on frets near the body one at a time to make sure none are getting choked out. If they are, VERY slightly raise the saddle until they don't buzz. Your action is now as low is it will go without buzzing out (unless you have high or low frets somewhere .)

From here I go to the nut. You'll want guages to set the nut. You can get feeler gauages SUPER cheap at any auto parts store. I cut my nut so that there is 0.015" between the string and frist fret with no frets held down. You "can" go lower, but this set up is already lower than many people will be able to play without unintentional buzzing out. 0.015 let's me make the open strings buzz , IF I WANT, but it's still high enough to play clean as well

You don't need tools for the first 2 steps. It's very easy to do. Watch a couple videos. That alone should get you into a place where you can play clean or clank away at will. You may even find you need to slightly add a little neck relief or saddle height to play clean at all unless you have a very light touch.

Just remember this, if it's buzzing near the head stock, add neck relief , if it's buzzing near the body (bottom of the neck) add saddle height.

It's all very very simple once you understand it.
Don't be scared to slightly go too low. Going a little too low is how you find the limit. Go too low intentionally and then raising the saddles or adding neck relief is the easiest way I've found to get as low an action as possible without tolls for measuring.

This is the way...

 

[icarus88]

I got the "clank", I have to hit the finger very hard like a hammer, it doesn't work with a light touch,This means there will be no "clank" at high speeds.

 

[96tbird]

I think it was a mistake to buy heavy gauge strings, I play with a super light touch, the string hardly vibrates, I don't even see that they are vibrating


Strings hardly stretch

Steve Harris uses FLATwounds.

They are stiff and hard. He plays right at the pickup or slightly south.

With that setup he’s likely got really low action to get his strings clanking off the frets. Considering his blistering fast stream of notes, he has to be very low to get them clanking. There’s a time and distance factor of the string rebounding for the next smack of the finger on it.

On My P with flats the neck has very little relief and dead low action. My fingers and technique change attack when I want clank OR clean.

 

[icarus88]

It's very strange, I get a perfect clank tone on the E and A strings, but there is no clank on the D string no matter how hard i hit it.

 

[icarus88]

Steve Harris uses FLATwounds.

They are stiff and hard. He plays right at the pickup or slightly south.

With that setup he’s likely got really low action to get his strings clanking off the frets.

to test it out, i used my right hand on the bottom of the neck, it is easier to get a clank sound because there is more flex, getting a heavy gauge string was a mistake. i am not steve harris

 

[StevieMac]

Steve Harris uses a very light touch so it can be done, but you need minimal relief and low action to make it happen.