Spoken like a man who never flips his gear!"The only good tweeter is a dead tweeter"
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I have a Peavey TVX 410 cab in one of my rehearsal spaces that someone gave me because the tweeter is blown and it's stoopid heavy. Anything I have has the tweeter switched off if it has one.Spoken like a man who never flips his gear!
Al Kraft
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I think as long as you don't say something as specific as "Tweeter in Chief" you're okay....Better hope the SS (Secret Service) isn't reading this thread.
just got my first Class D amplifier:
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... But can't see where the volume potentiometer should be connected. Surely a Class D amplifier is not expected to run flat out continuously and rely only on a preamp to adjust the output volume?!
If not then where should the master volume be attached, please?
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... But can't see where the volume potentiometer should be connected. Surely a Class D amplifier is not expected to run flat out continuously and rely only on a preamp to adjust the output volume?!
If not then where should the master volume be attached, please?
JeezyMcNuggles
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Turn every single knob (except contours, compressors, etc) to the right and hit all the strings as hard as you possibly can.
BurningSkies
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If you need to ask these questions, perhaps this is not the project for you?
Why not? Every other instrument amp I've ever owned or worked on, tube or solid state, does exactly that. Look at on-line schematics if you don't believe me. The only rig I've got that has a volume control on the power amp is a modular preamp/power-amp rig where the Crown XLS-1500 has a volume control. Which I run flat-out.
Good Point but as I said, this IS my 1st Class D power amp and all I hear is that the AUDIO INPUT determines the VOLUME/OUTPUT/WATTAGE & Current Draw which does seem just SO unlike the Tube circuitry we're all used to
BurningSkies
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Good Point but as I said, this IS my 1st Class D power amp and all I hear is that the AUDIO INPUT determines the VOLUME/OUTPUT/WATTAGE & Current Draw which does seem just SO unlike the Tube circuitry we're all used to
So that should give you the idea...if the level you input drives the level output...you want something in the front that is altering the voltage the amp is seeing right?
Passinwind
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Please show us the block diagram for your proposed build. Because as usual, the answer right now would be "it depends."
Thanks!
well, the earlier link I provided:
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...shows one that could be useful (Although you'd have to remove the probe from it)
well, so I'm told BUT is that correct?
Do Digital Amps behave this way..?
(this is my 1st)
Passinwind
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BurningSkies
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Good Point but as I said, this IS my 1st Class D power amp and all I hear is that the AUDIO INPUT determines the VOLUME/OUTPUT/WATTAGE & Current Draw which does seem just SO unlike the Tube circuitry we're all used to
No, it is EXACTLY the same as a tube power amp and a solid state linear power amp.
That's NOT what was asked for.
What kind of electronics experience do you have?
I had a large 300w Phil Jones head that had a gain control that couldn't be turned all the way off. No idea what the rationale was for that. It was also the only amp I've come across that I could turn all the way up and be short on stage volume.
I'm guessing you got a great deal from the Chinese Dumpster called Ebay?
It looks like a first generation class-d amp - way too many output devices.
And it looks to be a reference design created for 100v lines. A bass amp would be the wrong application for it.
You'll need a power supply but a good power supply will cost more than what you'd pay for a modern module with built in power supply. In fact you can buy a complete power amp with a warranty for less than what most people can piece together parts for.
You should also build in a limiter as I expect any runaway condition is going to take out some of them output devices. A pre-built power amp would also include a limiter.
I think you'd find help from a lot of bargain hunter hi-fi forums, but IMHO it's not worth trying to make a gig-worthy amp from it.
