Classical drop-D extension focused build

[mapleglo]

Very cool bass Warren and welcome to tb! As life has a way of muscling in front of projects, my capo-machine got pushed to the back burner so thank you for reminding me to move it back to the front! I think a bass can be capo'd in a few ways but my design goal is to make it small and automatic. Phil Kubicki's design is very good and not difficult to engage/disengage - I want to take it one step further. That and make it something that could be used on a variety of neck types.

Another great design that's already out there is the Hipshot drop-D machine. If you want to see it in action by a master check out Michael Manring - he's developed a very sophisticated style of de-tuning on the fly using the Hipshot machine on all 4 tuners that is mechanically seamless and allows for his beautiful polly-tonal expression on a 4 string bass. He lives in the Bay Area and I've met him and seen a number of his solo performances. Never fails to wow me.

Do you have any pics of your capo (from the back as well) when it was still intact?

Wow!!!!!!

 

[wunnorf]

This is the only other photo I can find of the capo. It was pretty basic and there is nothing to see from the back of the neck. It just pivoted around on the countersunk screw. I made it from a little piece of brass and the plastic tube was cut off the end of an elastic type ukulele capo. It was a bit fiddly to use but it worked OK. If you pushed it off the string in a hurry, the plastic tube would fall off. In the end it split through the side of the countersunk hole I think.

 

[Jon Clegg]

This is the only other photo I can find of the capo. It was pretty basic and there is nothing to see from the back of the neck. It just pivoted around on the countersunk screw. I made it from a little piece of brass and the plastic tube was cut off the end of an elastic type ukulele capo. It was a bit fiddly to use but it worked OK. If you pushed it off the string in a hurry, the plastic tube would fall off. In the end it split through the side of the countersunk hole I think.

View attachment 2962968

Welcome to TB, Warren.

That capo is pretty ingenious in its simplicity; it could be refined upon a bit to make it more durable. Also love how you modded that Washburn into a medium scale with an extended range E.

 

[ICM]

That's such an interesting bass, super unique!

 

[wunnorf]

I watched a YouTube video a couple of days ago of David Wilcox making a single string capo from a piece of plastic hair band so I thought that would be worth trying on the 'Washfactor'. After a couple of attempts I got something that works OK, but looks a bit rough. The process is a bit hit and miss, but I have plenty of hairband left so will have another go at getting a more even curve. Even this rough one seems to hold down the E or the Eb with no buzzing, and you can actually just slide it down to the Eb position. Obviously not the click - click solution that JIO is working on, but a lot tidier than the Shubb capo. Apologies for the rubbish night time pictures from my phone - looks like either the bass or the lens needs cleaning!

 

[wunnorf]

I made a tidier capo from hairband plastic, but the plastic seems to creep over time so after a day or so, the capo isn't clamping the string down enough and it starts buzzing. I have made another one from a strip of stainless steel covered in heat shrink tubing. Its not pretty, but I think will work more reliably and I can reshape it as necessary. It's a fairly crude way to lock off the string but it works at the E and the Eb without buzzing.

 

[warx]

I just started on a project using a MIM Jazz fretless I picked up cheap. Early stages but I'm plugging the tuner holes and will glue on the E string extension (either American Mahogany or Beech) then start figuring out how to position four smaller tuners (prolly Gotoh Compacts) in wherever they seem to fit. The hardest is going to be the E tuner. I generally prefer XL (0.100" gauge) so maybe I can get away with a turn shortly after the extended nut.

My question is strings. Looking at a scale length of 38.16" (two extra frets). I see a few very select roundwounds come in Extra/Super long but obviously all four are long. Another option I see is a place (Kalium) that sells strings at 38" individually but - just their own string "steel wound" $8. Has a ton of gauges though. What do you folks use?

 

[warx]

Reading no love for Kalium (is that true?) None of the "Extra Long" or "Super Long" strings will fit 38-1/4" scale which on the Jazz would need to be wound to 39-1/2" minimum.

I think it really comes down to Gary Goodman or take a chance on Kalium.

StringJoy not clear if they offer custom length
CircleKStrings out of business
Kalium poor customer service, risk of losing money
Gary Goodman 33- 40" scale (custom to 47" scale)
Curt Mangan custom - but not custom length (won't work)

And a good resource link:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[warx]

Here's the current status (bear in mind it's a leftie bass). I have a square nut blank coming for the low D. I am trying to decide whether to fill the normal nut slot under the E with wood/epoxy and shorten the nut to just three (ADG) strings. Or, just file down the E spot of the regular nut. Not even thinking about capo options yet. It's American Mahogany which I hope is dense enough. The tuner holes are filled with beech (did not have maple). I'll apply some dark stain to either the top or all three sides before epoxying the whole fingerboard. Hmm, I wonder if I should just fill the nut slot under the E and it will get epoxied.

 

[JIO]

Here's the current status (bear in mind it's a leftie bass). I have a square nut blank coming for the low D. I am trying to decide whether to fill the normal nut slot under the E with wood/epoxy and shorten the nut to just three (ADG) strings. Or, just file down the E spot of the regular nut. Not even thinking about capo options yet. It's American Mahogany which I hope is dense enough. The tuner holes are filled with beech (did not have maple). I'll apply some dark stain to either the top or all three sides before epoxying the whole fingerboard. Hmm, I wonder if I should just fill the nut slot under the E and it will get epoxied.

View attachment 3480630

Just to clarify- you are left handed correct? If so the thing you have to keep in mind is having comfortable (for you) right hand access to those extended frets. The mass of the Fender hs (depending on where you put the tuners) will be in the way for fast fretting at the hs, and if you plan on positioning tuners there they will definitely be in the way.

 

[warx]

Just to clarify- you are left handed correct? If so the thing you have to keep in mind is having comfortable (for you) right hand access to those extended frets. The mass of the Fender hs (depending on where you put the tuners) will be in the way for fast fretting at the hs, and if you plan on positioning tuners there they will definitely be in the way.

Correct. I am Left-handed. With the curve of the hs I can reach the Db fine (I have big hands) and then play the D open. I am not sure I could play anything between Eb and D comfortably though. I'm going to use compact Gotoh tuners two up and two down so they will stay at the far end of the hs.

I think I'm going to try some DR Long scale Hi-Beams to start with. Says 40.7" wound length so should work. With epoxy fretless I don't think there's a difference between stainless and nickel wear-wise - both much harder than epoxy!

 

[warx]

Almost finished. I just need to get some real nut files and get my strings down properly. round needle file does not cut it. My process was slowed down as I decided to epoxy the fingerboard at the same time. When I taped over the nut slot I covered too much of the board - but in a non-crucial place at least. Lessons learned. Also on my extension the tape dam migrated inwards and I did not notice - but again not a crucial part functionally.

I need to order a single left machine head to get my D string path straighter (my set had two left and two right - but I needed to use one of each on the top). Seems to work pretty well (and better when I can lower the strings). I might relieve a bit more around the "r" of Fender(r).

Next time I'll find some matching maple for the plugging the tuner peg holes and the extension.

 

[JIO]

That's one way of doing it!

 

[warx]

Just a couple more shots a a really simple capo solution. I know it does not have a fixed detent to hold it in absolute position but I just can't think of an easy solution for both an E and Eb gates. Looking at how the classical ones work they still seem like they don't have a positive position either. Maybe a rotating gate with a very small thumb-screw that limits its position? I am not sure it's worth it. I am not even sure if gating at Eb is worth it although I play in that key more than D I suppose.
You can also see I did cut more of a relief from underneath (close to the "r" of "Fender"). Makes a big difference for the Eb.

 

[JIO]

Ok! Welcome back fellow innovators! I started this thread July '17 - over 3 yrs ago. Thanks to a few things, including Covid (as in "a silver-lining") I have checked off a number of my 'back-burner' projects - including this drop-D mechanism for my XD bass. Here are pics of it - it is a crude prototype and by no means the final design of the concept. It is made of brass and aluminum mostly and works much more easily/directly than Phil Kubicki's spring-loaded capo. I love his design but it takes a two-part fingering technique to engage and re-engage it where as my design is easily done with ones thumb while fretting. The big difference is that this is for a standard tuners-at-the-hs bass.

in 'off' position - open low D

Capo 'off' - above E string and not in the way of fretting.

Capo engaged - open E

 

[Why Nautilus‽]

Still looks great! Worth the wait!

 

[wraub]

Looks clever AF and very cool. Nicely done!

Ok! Welcome back fellow innovators! I started this thread July '17 - over 3 yrs ago. Thanks to a few things, including Covid (as in "a silver-lining") I have checked off a number of my 'back-burner' projects - including this drop-D mechanism for my XD bass. Here are pics of it - it is a crude prototype and by no means the final design of the concept. It is made of brass and aluminum mostly and works much more easily/directly than Phil Kubicki's spring-loaded capo. I love his design but it takes a two-part fingering technique to engage and re-engage it where as my design is easily done with ones thumb while fretting. The big difference is that this is for a standard tuners-at-the-hs bass.

View attachment 4026663
in 'off' position - open low D
View attachment 4026657
Capo 'off' - above E string and not in the way of fretting.
View attachment 4026664
Capo engaged - open E
View attachment 4026666

View attachment 4026667

View attachment 4026668

View attachment 4026672

 

[MattZilla]

Huh, since it’s not fretless like a DB, the fretboard material under the extension kinda doesn’t matter... it could itself be milled out of aluminum or bronze, have the mechanism built into it with the articulating arm on the other side of the (D) string, and epoxy on top a pair of tangless fret stubs (along with some maple veneer if you need that aesthetic).

 

[CormacBass]

I just want to say I love this, I'm planning on building something similar soon, the information in this discussion is pure gold for me. Thank you!
I have a question about harmonics, when playing the open D, where is the harmonic that would typically be at the 12th?

 

[RichterScale]

That contraption is great,.....but I'm fixed on that headstock design.
That is just super cool.
Is that completely original, or is there something similar out there that was an inspiration?