• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Club Clement (Part 4: Post your basses here)

Status
Not open for further replies.
#2
Well...it's not just an EQ thing. When I slap the bass has a more mid-range-ish sound that has a certain bark to it. Now this could be attributed to the pick-up placement, as well. I have Nordy Big Splits in it right now...

I don't have the scratch for an entirely new bass...but down the road, I'd definitely consider a Swamp Ash, Maple top Phoenix 4 with jumbo frets a maple neck and fretboard with Nordy J-splits and a sadowsky pre with VTC...

I don't have the near 2K that this would cost me...and my wife would definitely kill me if dropped baby funds on a bass right now!:D
 
#3
Lincoln said:
So here's the question: would a maple fretboard, maple neck have more bottom end vs my current neck which is ebony fretboard, maple neck with two wenge stringers? Or would the difference be too negligable to warrant the expense...?
Click to expand...

IME/IMHO, this would not be something worth investing in, if you goal is to add more bottom end.

Again, IME/IMHO, both maple and ebony boards have nice high end clarity, with ebony having a signature "ping" up top and a bit more high end detail, overall. Maple seems has a bit of a peak as well, but it's lower (frequency) and broader (range), and has a bit more "growl." I do not think that either board would sound any different from the other in the lower frequencies.

Now, the one-piece (was that one piece?) maple neck versus a maple neck with wenge stringers might have a bit of an impact. My guess is that the one-piece maple neck would sound a bit more warm/round, and the neck with the wenge stringers would sound a bit more tight down low. But this is conjecture, on my part. I have not had an opportunity to play two very similar basses with just this kind of difference in the neck.

Does your current bass have a preamp? If not, I would suggest that merely adding a preamp (say, Nordstrand 2-band if you just want some bass/treble control, or maybe an East pre if you want the parametric mids) might be your best bet.

And as always, YMMV.

Tom.
 
#4
I dunno man, like I said, different wood experience isn't really my bag. But I think I would experiment with EQ and compression / maybe an external pre down the local guitar store before I started changing necks.

Subtlety is not my strongest point, so I think a lot of the wood nuances are lost on me.
 
#8
tombowlus said:
IME/IMHO, this would not be something worth investing in, if you goal is to add more bottom end.

Again, IME/IMHO, both maple and ebony boards have nice high end clarity, with ebony having a signature "ping" up top and a bit more high end detail, overall. Maple seems has a bit of a peak as well, but it's lower (frequency) and broader (range), and has a bit more "growl." I do not think that either board would sound any different from the other in the lower frequencies.

Now, the one-piece (was that one piece?) maple neck versus a maple neck with wenge stringers might have a bit of an impact. My guess is that the one-piece maple neck would sound a bit more warm/round, and the neck with the wenge stringers would sound a bit more tight down low. But this is conjecture, on my part. I have not had an opportunity to play two very similar basses with just this kind of difference in the neck.

Does your current bass have a preamp? If not, I would suggest that merely adding a preamp (say, Nordstrand 2-band if you just want some bass/treble control, or maybe an East pre if you want the parametric mids) might be your best bet.

And as always, YMMV.

Tom.
Click to expand...

I've got a very transparent Glockenklang in there now...Thick bottom doesn't necessarily equal round bottom...A Ken Smith bass's bottom sounds very different from Marcus Miller's modded Fender's bottom...( his is rounder, less brittle or metallic)
 
#9
Lincoln said:
I've got a very transparent Glockenklang in there now...Thick bottom doesn't necessarily equal round bottom...A Ken Smith bass's bottom sounds very different from Marcus Miller's modded Fender's bottom...( his is rounder, less brittle or metallic)
Click to expand...

Good point. Very good point, in fact. :cool:

That Glockenklang pre is just fantastic, IMHO, so no need to tweak, there.

I hate to say this, but it sounds to me like you might prefer the tone of an alder or mahogany bodied bass.

Tom.
 
#10
tombowlus said:
Good point. Very good point, in fact. :cool:

That Glockenklang pre is just fantastic, IMHO, so no need to tweak, there.

I hate to say this, but it sounds to me like you might prefer the tone of an alder or mahogany bodied bass.

Tom.
Click to expand...

No, No I definitely hear a Marcus Miller slap sound which is Northern Ash and Maple/Maple. When I selected the woods I had in mind a bass that wasn't quite so niche specific and I thought the Wenge stringers and ebony fretboard would give it extra stability and smooth not brittle top end because of the density of those woods. In hindsight I wonder if I should have made it a five piece laminate all maple neck....

And I love the Glock! In fact, I play in passive mode with tone rolled off for a large chunk of what I play or for solos. I only switching to active when I slap or play more conventional songs...
 
#11
Lincoln said:
No, No I definitely hear a Marcus Miller slap sound which is Northern Ash and Maple/Maple. When I selected the woods I had in mind a bass that wasn't quite so niche specific and I thought the Wenge stringers and ebony fretboard would give it extra stability and smooth not brittle top end because of the density of those woods. In hindsight I wonder if I should have made it a five piece laminate all maple neck....
Click to expand...

Yes, the bass you have should do a MM slap thing pretty well. I thought you wanted a bigger/warmer/more round low end, though, which is what I think alder or mahogany would get you, relative to ash.
 
#12
I agree with Tom B, I think the sound wouldn't change all that much with a maple/maple neck, as compared to the maple/bubinga/ebony neck. They are all sort of dense and bright sounding necks. I also agre with Tom B that it sounds like you're looking for a slightly warmer body wood... as Tom suggests, like alder or mahogany. However, a good preamp (internal or external) may be able to help you add that little roundness to the sound. :)
 
#14
ok, latest news is that my new bass (which isn't being started till January... *lol*) will be headless. That new body shape just got me point blank :D Got this from Tom in my mailbox, and just have to share!!!! Apparently, after considering input from a very reliable source of expertise, a highly placed, experienced and skilled double-neck bass player, he has reworked his sketches a little bit. Looks even better now, I think! The idea being that it's easier to play necks that are parallell as seen from the playing position than from the "front". Also, the upper cutaway has been shortened to make the structure stronger. Makes sense, too.

Just looks even better this way, and I'm sorry to tell, I'm starting to GAS too now. Looks great and convenient to be able to have both the fretless and the fretted available at the same time. :)
double-b4.gif


I never thought a double-neck would interest me. But I can see how it could be useful for a lot of things. I'm wondering, though, would it be easier playing the previous version sitting down? :) Any opinions?
 
#15
MrWalker said:
ok, latest news is that my new bass (which isn't being started till January... *lol*) will be headless. That new body shape just got me point blank :D Got this from Tom in my mailbox, and just have to share!!!! Apparently, after considering input from a very reliable source of expertise, a highly placed, experienced and skilled double-neck bass player, he has reworked his sketches a little bit. Looks even better now, I think! The idea being that it's easier to play necks that are parallell as seen from the playing position than from the "front". Also, the upper cutaway has been shortened to make the structure stronger. Makes sense, too.

Just looks even better this way, and I'm sorry to tell, I'm starting to GAS too now. Looks great and convenient to be able to have both the fretless and the fretted available at the same time. :)
double-b4.gif


I never thought a double-neck would interest me. But I can see how it could be useful for a lot of things. I'm wondering, though, would it be easier playing the previous version sitting down? :) Any opinions?
Click to expand...

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:

That's gonna rock!
 
#16
MrWalker said:
I agree with Tom B, I think the sound wouldn't change all that much with a maple/maple neck, as compared to the maple/bubinga/ebony neck. They are all sort of dense and bright sounding necks. I also agre with Tom B that it sounds like you're looking for a slightly warmer body wood... as Tom suggests, like alder or mahogany. However, a good preamp (internal or external) may be able to help you add that little roundness to the sound. :)
Click to expand...

You sound like an intelligent guy! :D
 
#17
Mandatory family shots:
ji-coll6.jpg

From left: #114 Jon 6-string (swamp ash/ maple / bloodwood), #110 (swamp ash body w/sycamore top and Status Graphite neck), #135 (heavily chambered swamp ash body w/cedar top, mahogany/bubinga neck with macassar ebony fingerboard), #89 (black limba back, chambered mahogany core, koa top with black accent stripes, shedua neck w/stabilized ash fingerboard if my memory serves me right), and #069 (swamp ash, maple and bloodwood). :)

And then #169 Phoenix wonder :)
fin-169fullfront.jpg

Chambered mahogany body with spalted maple top, maple/bubinga laminate neck with the most beautiful pale moon ebony fingerboard :-)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back