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Club FBass (Part 5)

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#561
The only thing George is guilty of is not making more basses with that awesome black/purple/pink burst these days :) I've only seen one or two that had it, and I haven't even seen pictures of those in years.
 
#563
Bryan R. Tyler said:
The only thing George is guilty of is not making more basses with that awesome black/purple/pink burst these days :) I've only seen one or two that had it, and I haven't even seen pictures of those in years.
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[Grinning] Well said, Bryan.

I wonder how many of THESE George made...

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#565
I always thought the neon burst was super cool, now I can't even find a pic of it online.

I guess maybe the colors are a bit dated in terms of whats fashionable these days, but I thought it was killer.

George, have you ever done a blue/green burst?
 
#568
I don't know if I'm man enough to rock a neon burst BN7, but it sure looks incredible. :) I really dig the color of that BN5 too.

I gotta say, your colors rock George, I'm used to lusting after your awesome tops, but your colors are just as amazing. I was just going to mention how killer this green is:

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,

and then I realized that most of my favorite colors for basses have been on F's. The blue BN6 that used to be on your homepage for example!

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#572
puff father said:
Question: How close do you have your pickups adjusted to the strings? I am playing around with mine because I get some fairly annoying harmonics especially when playing the B string.
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I generally shoot for around 1/8" at the bridge and maybe 1/4" or more at the neck pickup, measured with the string fretted at the last fret (which essentially means that's my "minimum" clearance... my typical clearance is more since I don't play up high most of the time).

What strings are you currently using? Emphasized harmonic overtones is a problem I typically have with tapered strings, and why I generally don't like them, and why I don't use the F Bass strings. IMHO/YMMV tho. I know there are folks that get along just fine with those strings, but I've had much better luck with tonal purity from regular DR strings like LoRiders and HiBeams (depending on how slinky you want them).
 
#573
Vic said:
I generally shoot for around 1/8" at the bridge and maybe 1/4" or more at the neck pickup, measured with the string fretted at the last fret (which essentially means that's my "minimum" clearance... my typical clearance is more since I don't play up high most of the time).

What strings are you currently using? Emphasized harmonic overtones is a problem I typically have with tapered strings, and why I generally don't like them, and why I don't use the F Bass strings. IMHO/YMMV tho. I know there are folks that get along just fine with those strings, but I've had much better luck with tonal purity from regular DR strings like LoRiders and HiBeams (depending on how slinky you want them).
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I'm using F bass strings right now since Donovan is such a killer dealer! :) I do like HiBeams too. I'm kind of thinking that the overtone thing is due to individual basses and how they resonate. My nephew's BN5 doesn't have the same issue at all that I could tell. For that matter, when I'm not just playing solo it's not an issue for me either. My P/Us are approx 3/16" bridge and 1/8" neck when I fret at the 22nd fret. I am trying the bridge P/U slightly lower that I previously had it. The output will be a little lower, but that's what the pre-amp is for.

Sure is a sweet bass though! :)
 
#575
My nana got me an Alain Caron DVD for Christmas.. Im just in awe. Man, how I miss the feel and look of an Fbass. One day, as I said. My "savings" have begun again. My P bass will get me there, but it might be a while. :D
 
#577
Hi guys, just wanna know how much relief you have given to your Fbass?

When the first and the last fret is depressed, what is the clearance between the top of the fret and bottom of the string at the 9th fret?

And the open string clearance at 12 fret?

Thanks for the info.
 
#578
I don't have an actual measurement, but my F's work best with a relatively flat neck. I usually make em straight as a board (with the strings depressed), and then back off about a 1/4 turn or less. Works great on my BN6. Maybe someone else can chime in with numbers for you
 
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