My measurements say either the Long 36 3/4" or XL 38" should work, though the silk will get a bit close to the nut with Long, and the silk gets close to the tuning peg on the G with the XL.
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if it's a string-though between the extra length required for that and the extra .5" scale length I would guess that you would need XLs, I just measured the E string I took off of a 34" scale top-load bass a couple of days ago and it measured 38" from ball-end to silk. IIRC the silk started about 3/4" past the nut so a long scale set should work on a top-loader.
Thanks. I’ll top load. Agreed that a through body would need the XL.
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! this is how slow I am on the uptake, it just now occurred to me to, y’know, actually hold the strings up to my BN6 to see for sure! whoo! I am such a bonehead sometimes! anyway, with the standard long scale set you’ll have at least an inch and a quarter before the silk beyond the nut on a top-loader on the E to G strings I was able to check.
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! this is how slow I am on the uptake, it just now occurred to me to, y'know, actually hold the strings up to my BN6 to see for sure! whoo! I am such a bonehead sometimes! anyway, with the standard long scale set you'll have at least an inch and a quarter before the silk beyond the nut on a top-loader on the E to G strings I was able to check.
Measure twice, buy once. Long scale for the top load it is then.
Since the XL an L are about 1 1/4" difference, I think either could work, depending on how consistent the production is with the stated measurements.
Hey… sorry that I’m a bit slow these days. This is the set that Marcel said is on the Classic.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...ylon-tapewound-bass-strings-standard-5-string
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...ylon-tapewound-bass-strings-standard-5-string
Fantastic!
Is the B tapered? I see the “T” and assume that’s the meaning, but I’m just guessing.
Yes, it's tapered, but still taped, so not dramatic. On mine, the taper stops just short of the bridge. That's a string through install. Bridge mount, would cross the bridge.
Hey guys. Patiently waiting to become a member of the F bass tribe...1 year to go till my BN4.
Question...is there such a vast difference between the feel of the BN and the VF?
Toying with the idea of ordering a VFP as a complementary bass to my BN. Worthwhile endeavor? Or is it more of a 'if you prefer one you may not like the feel of the other' kind of thing? Anybody with both to compare? Thanks in advance for any thoughts!
Question...is there such a vast difference between the feel of the BN and the VF?
Toying with the idea of ordering a VFP as a complementary bass to my BN. Worthwhile endeavor? Or is it more of a 'if you prefer one you may not like the feel of the other' kind of thing? Anybody with both to compare? Thanks in advance for any thoughts!
You might want to check this thread if you haven't already.
Or this
It’s not much, and more about the sound than the feel.
Thank you yes I read those!You might want to check this thread if you haven't already.
Or this
It's not much, and more about the sound than the feel.
I think though if I want an F P the VF is the only option …
Here is my newest F Bass addition, one of the first run of their FBass VI. This is the HSS version with flat top walnut body with rosewood board. I went back and forth with Marcel a bit about the HSS vs HSH version and I agree that for my purposes this was definitely the right choice for me. I was wondering how the 24-90 stigngjoys would work and other than being a bit lower tension that my other basses or guitar the 30 inch scale makes it work well. Overall it has been a blast to play. I find that either of the single coils are fine by themselves but the humbucker really does its best work for me with at least one single coil. I am also trying to determine if I will keep the trem arm installed or not, it seems to be more of a novelty right now.
Ergonomically it is excellent. The quarter sawn one piece neck is similar in profile as my BN5 albeit in a smaller scale and has a nice satin finish that allows for quick and precise movement. I have fairly large hands and can comfortably fret single notes a chords over the entire neck. At about 4.0kg/8.9lb it is not a lightweight but balances with a strong bias toward its body. I was wondering how the mastery bridge would work with palm muting and thus far I cannot feel any sharp edges. I saw some online reviews about the bridge having sharp edges but they were with guitars, perhaps the wider strings mitigate the issue.
Currently I am through the novelty phase and have begun the honeymoon phase and need more play time to solidify any opinions. Still trying to decide if the bass or guitar amp is best but it is likely more situationally dependant. I have some other strings to try but so far the current set is doing the job.
Here it is with my BN4 and BN5, so I have the 4, 5 and 6 string bases covered.
Ergonomically it is excellent. The quarter sawn one piece neck is similar in profile as my BN5 albeit in a smaller scale and has a nice satin finish that allows for quick and precise movement. I have fairly large hands and can comfortably fret single notes a chords over the entire neck. At about 4.0kg/8.9lb it is not a lightweight but balances with a strong bias toward its body. I was wondering how the mastery bridge would work with palm muting and thus far I cannot feel any sharp edges. I saw some online reviews about the bridge having sharp edges but they were with guitars, perhaps the wider strings mitigate the issue.
Currently I am through the novelty phase and have begun the honeymoon phase and need more play time to solidify any opinions. Still trying to decide if the bass or guitar amp is best but it is likely more situationally dependant. I have some other strings to try but so far the current set is doing the job.
Here it is with my BN4 and BN5, so I have the 4, 5 and 6 string bases covered.
This update is relevant to my interests. I might have a HSH coming from the next batch
Anyone got a BN5 that they’d be willing to part with for a reasonable price? Let me know! All the best!
In case anyone was curious, here’s a pic of where the SIT Power Wound exposed core strings fall on a BN5 bridge vs the F Bass brand. Sorry about the bad lighting and zoomed in cropping.
The SIT strings are very close to and in some cases almost on top of the saddles. I just started testing the SIT and I do like what they bring to the table. My primary goal was to find an exposed core string option that didn’t give me the chorus overtone effect on my open B when using a pick, and the SIT gets me closer to my target. They aren’t “perfect” but they are better than the F Bass strings. However, I do prefer the F Bass stainless steel sound.
I also picked up some tapered SIT Power Wound B string singles to test out. I thought if the SIT exposed cores weren’t quite my thing that maybe the tapered string would be what I was after. Unfortunately, while SIT does offer exposed core stainless sets, SIT doesn’t offer tapered stainless strings, so I opted to start with the nickel strings so I could mix and match the tapered and exposed core strings with the same metal winding. Based on my experience with the nickel Power Wound, I’ll probably give the exposed stainless set a try at some point soon.
I should also mention, part of why the SIT strings have less exposed core beyond the saddle has to do with the ball end wrapping. There’s a bit more material wrapped on them vs the F Bass and the ball end doesn’t slip as far into the bridge as it does with the F Bass strings.
SIT
F Bass
The SIT strings are very close to and in some cases almost on top of the saddles. I just started testing the SIT and I do like what they bring to the table. My primary goal was to find an exposed core string option that didn’t give me the chorus overtone effect on my open B when using a pick, and the SIT gets me closer to my target. They aren’t “perfect” but they are better than the F Bass strings. However, I do prefer the F Bass stainless steel sound.
I also picked up some tapered SIT Power Wound B string singles to test out. I thought if the SIT exposed cores weren’t quite my thing that maybe the tapered string would be what I was after. Unfortunately, while SIT does offer exposed core stainless sets, SIT doesn’t offer tapered stainless strings, so I opted to start with the nickel strings so I could mix and match the tapered and exposed core strings with the same metal winding. Based on my experience with the nickel Power Wound, I’ll probably give the exposed stainless set a try at some point soon.
I should also mention, part of why the SIT strings have less exposed core beyond the saddle has to do with the ball end wrapping. There’s a bit more material wrapped on them vs the F Bass and the ball end doesn’t slip as far into the bridge as it does with the F Bass strings.
SIT
F Bass
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After a bit more play time I noticed:
1. There’s a bit of tuning instability but I think the strings are settling in.
2. The open D string has a hair of the chorusing overtone issue I was trying to avoid on the open B. I think the fact it is riding up on the saddle could be part of the issue. I need to check the intonation tomorrow. Maybe I’ll end up backing the saddle up enough to cure it.
3. Related to 2 - I need to adjust the presence on the BDDI V2 I use. I liked it cranked up before but it accentuates the overtone chorus warble. I’m finding a few other EQ settings I like with the presence backed down. I’m still missing the stainless zing.
4. The 125 B feels a little underwhelming. I’m not sure if it’s the string diameter, a bad string, or just the nature of this string. It’s okay and not wildly out of place but the other 4 strings really feel more like exposed core strings with that piano like defined snap, while the B seems a bit wimpy open or fretted. EQ and pickup settings and BDDI settings can make things more even, but something just feels a little out of place.
5. They respond to EQ adjustments nicely. This applies to the onboard EQ, SansAmp, and mixer EQ.
6. They are a bit nicer on the fingers than stainless steel.
Overall, I like these Power Wound strings on the BN5. I need to tweak a few things still. It’s not love at first sight, but worth testing the waters so far.
1. There’s a bit of tuning instability but I think the strings are settling in.
2. The open D string has a hair of the chorusing overtone issue I was trying to avoid on the open B. I think the fact it is riding up on the saddle could be part of the issue. I need to check the intonation tomorrow. Maybe I’ll end up backing the saddle up enough to cure it.
3. Related to 2 - I need to adjust the presence on the BDDI V2 I use. I liked it cranked up before but it accentuates the overtone chorus warble. I’m finding a few other EQ settings I like with the presence backed down. I’m still missing the stainless zing.
4. The 125 B feels a little underwhelming. I’m not sure if it’s the string diameter, a bad string, or just the nature of this string. It’s okay and not wildly out of place but the other 4 strings really feel more like exposed core strings with that piano like defined snap, while the B seems a bit wimpy open or fretted. EQ and pickup settings and BDDI settings can make things more even, but something just feels a little out of place.
5. They respond to EQ adjustments nicely. This applies to the onboard EQ, SansAmp, and mixer EQ.
6. They are a bit nicer on the fingers than stainless steel.
Overall, I like these Power Wound strings on the BN5. I need to tweak a few things still. It’s not love at first sight, but worth testing the waters so far.
Personally I’ve never been real happy with any B string that was less than .130 on any bass that I’ve owned including my BN5 which I’ve had for 25 years now, YMMD
This is why I grabbed a Power Wound tapered B in 130. If this becomes my regular string set then I can order a set of 4 in exposed and a single B in tapered.
If I try the Power Steel the exposed B is a 135.
