• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Club Sadowsky!!!

On the oils, yeah, the stewmac looks like great stuff, the hydrate is great stuff (I have some of this as well) and also the dunlop 02 is great stuff (which I also have).

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Beware tho, this is often debated.

My personal choice is to use the above type stuff once in a while, depending on how dry the board is. My other personal choice is to avoid using the so called "lemon oil" ones or otherwise the thinner oils that I believe are more about cleaning than conditioning (except specifically for cleaning, in which case I don't let it sit on there and soak in... I apply and immediately wipe off with the dirt). They'll also darken the board nicely, but I think over long periods of time they can be counterproductive and actually leach the wood's natural oils out, rather than help keep them where they are and protect the wood better in general.

Some folks play open grain boards for years and years and never have an issue of any kind, tho, so keep that in mind.

IMHO/IME of course. :)
 
Ooh, that's a nice one! Congrats!
:bassist:
Thank You :D

Remember we told you, you will be HOOKED...Congrats and of course post some pics after you check her over.
I remember well... got tired of salivating and pulled the trigger! Pics are a given ;)

rulyøngo;10435633 said:
Nice!!! Post pics and a review when you get it!!!
Will do. As far as review..I'm not as technical as most here. I'm a 30 yr street/hack player if u will so describing why I like something or not is challenging...I'm like the "Cole Trickle" of bass playing but I'll do my best :hiding:
I'll be back!
 
Looking for a Metro Vintage M24/5 JJ bass????

There is a pretty sweet one on the bay right now in Dark Cherry Burst!!
No ties to this....just the messenger! :D
 
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
I have posted a lot about lemon oil over the years. First, let's look at what lemon oil is. Lemon oil is just mineral oil with added lemon scent and color and chemical drying agents. So what happens with lemon oil is that it initially darkens the wood and it looks and smells nice. But once those drying agents kick in....the fingerboard actually gets more dried out than it was before using the lemon oil.

I have always advocated boiled linseed oil which is sold at hardware stores and art supply houses. However, it is hard to buy less than a quart and it will self-harden in the can before you get to use 1/10th of it....

I do like the Hydrate, which is sold in small bottles, and can recommend it for individual use.

With all fingerboard oils, coat the entire board and then wipe up all the excess. Do not let it "soak" into the fingerboard.
I have worked on instruments that I was refretting and the fret slots were filled with oil from folks letting the oil "soak" in.

Roger
 
  • Like
Reactions: ExaltBass
I have always advocated boiled linseed oil which is sold at hardware stores and art supply houses. However, it is hard to buy less than a quart and it will self-harden in the can before you get to use 1/10th of it....
Is there any way to stabilize it, or is stuff like hydrate just as good so it's not worth it?

With all fingerboard oils, coat the entire board and then wipe up all the excess. Do not let it "soak" into the fingerboard.
I have worked on instruments that I was refretting and the fret slots were filled with oil from folks letting the oil "soak" in.
Ok, this point was an education for me. I admit I let it soak in... not for a really long time tho, so maybe I'm not causing a problem, just like maybe a few minutes or so, but I'll stop doing that.
 
I have posted a lot about lemon oil over the years. First, let's look at what lemon oil is. Lemon oil is just mineral oil with added lemon scent and color and chemical drying agents. So what happens with lemon oil is that it initially darkens the wood and it looks and smells nice. But once those drying agents kick in....the fingerboard actually gets more dried out than it was before using the lemon oil.

I have always advocated boiled linseed oil which is sold at hardware stores and art supply houses. However, it is hard to buy less than a quart and it will self-harden in the can before you get to use 1/10th of it....

I do like the Hydrate, which is sold in small bottles, and can recommend it for individual use.

With all fingerboard oils, coat the entire board and then wipe up all the excess. Do not let it "soak" into the fingerboard.
I have worked on instruments that I was refretting and the fret slots were filled with oil from folks letting the oil "soak" in.

Roger

Would orange oil be any different? Carl from Lakland recommends it to clean maple boards.
 
Would orange oil be any different? Carl from Lakland recommends it to clean maple boards.

I had the opportunity to visit the Lakland shop last winter. Carl uses Howard Brand "Feed-N-Wax" beeswax, canuba wax & orange oil. He recommended it for my rosewood board.


Link: http://www.howardproducts.com/feednwax.htm


Not endorsing the brand here (although I did buy some to try and liked it)...just sharing the deets on Carl's product of choice.
 
So, I've been playing with my new bass lately and even if I own 7 of them. I am blown away. Robert and Roger did a fantastic job. Its the best Sadowsky I've ever own. I know its a strong statement but its true. I can't put it down.:bassist::bassist::bassist:

I actually truly believe that I'm a better player because of it.:hiding:

I had it customized from standard specs.
The neck is 1.45 like a Will Lee
I decided this time that I wanted to try the Ultra light solid Ash body.
Single coil P/U ( I guess Roger changed his single P/U. they look different then my other Sads).

This bass is not a Fender on steroids. Its a Sadowsky on steroids.:rollno:
I'm completely flabbergasted even after playing sads for years.

I have a gig tomorrow night for Valentine. Its the perfect color. ;)
DSC_7161.jpg
 
So, I've been playing with my new bass lately and even if I own 7 of them. I am blown away. Robert and Roger did a fantastic job. Its the best Sadowsky I've ever own. I know its a strong statement but its true. I can't put it down.:bassist::bassist::bassist:

I actually truly believe that I'm a better player because of it.:hiding:

I had it customized from standard specs.
The neck is 1.45 like a Will Lee
I decided this time that I wanted to try the Ultra light solid Ash body.
Single coil P/U ( I guess Roger changed his single P/U. they look different then my other Sads).

This bass is not a Fender on steroids. Its a Sadowsky on steroids.:rollno:
I'm completely flabbergasted even after playing sads for years.

I have a gig tomorrow night for Valentine. Its the perfect color. ;)
DSC_7161.jpg


Beautiful!!! Congratulations!
 
I'm thinking about doing something crazy...

Selling off my Metro MV5-24 AND my quilt top JJ5 (5249) and spec'ing out a new ash/maple quilt top V5-24 with the thinner neck like on the 24-Fret 5/Modern, and the narrower nut option.

My older NYC just SO SO has that ash/maple single coil J thing covered so well, and the Metro PJ5 just continues to stand up to the best PJ's I've ever played, so the only thing left is fancy/modern/24-fret, and I already know the dual soap thing is not for me. Further, my Metro MV5-24 is just perfect except for the fact that I'd like my 24 fret Sadowsky to have these other options... and you gotta' go NYC for that. Maybe even go birdseye on that board. :) Just not sure if I'd go "standard" or "vintage (with a guard/plate)". I'd actually think standard on this one... maybe even go PJ on the pickups... noodle noodle noodle...