Club Sadowsky!!!

[marchone]

That’s my German Will Lee above. I had Planet Pickguard make a black replacement for the original tort. I suspect the issues people see above are with the pickguard template.

 

[Ivanofbass]

but... is there actually a problem with the spoke wheel thing? i mean, is this just a perception thing, or is the lack of a bigger gap, or gap at all, actually causing a real problem?

maybe i missed it if there is one, otherwise, but if this is all perception and not an actual problem, seems a little silly to me. IMHO, i like tight precision, as long as it doesn't also mean interference issues. Not sure if i heard here that's actually happening or not. if it is, disregard this post.

I guess you will have to forgive me ,this is the first bolt on neck I have owned. I am getting a vibration type noise now that things moved a little.(seasonal) after 3 months or so. I have not determined the absolute cause yet. This bass was flawless sounding when I got it. The clearest B string I ever played,
all the way up the neck!
But see if you can follow my logic.
Anytime 2 pieces come together that forms a joint. We have lots of them on the bass. The neck is the major one. The screws will come loose over time. Simple solution.. tighten them. All the vibration and resonance a bass makes will make any joint or fixture vibrate if they are not tight. That's why we have high mass bridges and tuners, oversized head stocks.

There are lots of these basses out there. Surely mine isn't the only one. When I hear from Warwick I can share any info they provide. They may have a bulletin. Feel free to chime in if im off BASS here.

 

[Ivanofbass]

That’s my German Will Lee above. I had Planet Pickguard make a black replacement for the original tort. I suspect the issues people see above are with the pickguard template.

Thanks for this! I will see what's going on under mine.

 

[mikezimmerman]

I would check and be sure that there is actually at least a little tension on the truss rod. Both the noise and the position of the adjustment wheel would make me think that perhaps the truss rod is a little too loose in the neck and needs to be tightened just a bit.

I guess you will have to forgive me ,this is the first bolt on neck I have owned. I am getting a vibration type noise now that things moved a little.(seasonal) after 3 months or so. I have not determined the absolute cause yet. This bass was flawless sounding when I got it. The clearest B string I ever played,
all the way up the neck!
But see if you can follow my logic.
Anytime 2 pieces come together that forms a joint. We have lots of them on the bass. The neck is the major one. The screws will come loose over time. Simple solution.. tighten them. All the vibration and resonance a bass makes will make any joint or fixture vibrate if they are not tight. That's why we have high mass bridges and tuners, oversized head stocks.

There are lots of these basses out there. Surely mine isn't the only one. When I hear from Warwick I can share any info they provide. They may have a bulletin. Feel free to chime in if im off BASS here.

 

[marchone]

I guess you will have to forgive me ,this is the first bolt on neck I have owned. I am getting a vibration type noise now that things moved a little.(seasonal) after 3 months or so. I have not determined the absolute cause yet. This bass was flawless sounding when I got it. The clearest B string I ever played,
all the way up the neck!
But see if you can follow my logic.
Anytime 2 pieces come together that forms a joint. We have lots of them on the bass. The neck is the major one. The screws will come loose over time. Simple solution.. tighten them. All the vibration and resonance a bass makes will make any joint or fixture vibrate if they are not tight. That's why we have high mass bridges and tuners, oversized head stocks.

There are lots of these basses out there. Surely mine isn't the only one. When I hear from Warwick I can share any info they provide. They may have a bulletin. Feel free to chime in if im off BASS here. View attachment 5190237

Completely agree. Every time you tighten a truss rod you should also tighten the neck pocket screws.

 

[rowsi]

I am getting a vibration type noise now that things moved a little.(seasonal) after 3 months or so. I have not determined the absolute cause yet.

Are you using the security locks that came with the bass? Those thingies can rattle quite a bit.
Another note: I got a vibrating noise on my WIll Lee and I believe it comes from the springs that are installed with the pickups. Haven't found a cure for that noise yet. It is only audible when playing unplugged, so no real worries.

 

[rmayer]

While looking at new stock basses at Sadowsky.com I had this thought. With the string retainer on the headstocks, why doesn’t it include the E string?
They make 4 space retainers for the 5 string basses, and it includes E through G.

 

[DubDee3]

While looking at new stock basses at Sadowsky.com I had this thought. With the string retainer on the headstocks, why doesn’t it include the E string?
They make 4 space retainers for the 5 string basses, and it includes E through G.

Yes, and the 5s don't include the B. Was wondering, too.

 

[KaseOfBass]

While looking at new stock basses at Sadowsky.com I had this thought. With the string retainer on the headstocks, why doesn’t it include the E string?
They make 4 space retainers for the 5 string basses, and it includes E through G.

Yes, and the 5s don't include the B. Was wondering, too.

Here's an answer from Roger on this before, albeit from when they were still using the bar retainer. Essentially, if the string is wound correctly for the B on a 5 or the E on a 4, there is enough downbearing on it without the need for a retainer.

The B string actually has enough downbearing behind the nut without the retainer bar because it's location is the closest to the nut. You can lower the bass side until the bar just begins to press on the B just the slightest bit. But as long as the open B does not rattle and the E string is fine, there is no need to lower it more. The strings that need it the most are the G,D and A.

Roger

 

[DubDee3]

Here's an answer from Roger on this before, albeit from when they were still using the bar retainer. Essentially, if the string is wound correctly for the B on a 5 or the E on a 4, there is enough downbearing on it without the need for a retainer.

Makes sense to me. Thanks for enlightening us via the man, himself!

 

[rmayer]

Here's an answer from Roger on this before, albeit from when they were still using the bar retainer. Essentially, if the string is wound correctly for the B on a 5 or the E on a 4, there is enough downbearing on it without the need for a retainer.

Makes sense, just need enough wraps on the E, or the B for a 5er. Can’t argue with the man.

 

[rmayer]

When changing strings I always find myself trying to remember how long to leave the string past the tuner when cutting. Anyone have an exact measurement?

 

[Devnor]

When changing strings I always find myself trying to remember how long to leave the string past the tuner when cutting. Anyone have an exact measurement?

Here's the master at work

 

[KaseOfBass]

When changing strings I always find myself trying to remember how long to leave the string past the tuner when cutting. Anyone have an exact measurement?

No exact measurement, but I typically go the distance of about three of the tuning pegs past the string I’m cutting, slightly less for the thicker E and B strings. For the D, I just snip the end without any wraps off.

Edit: this is using Elixir long scales.

 

[rmayer]

No exact measurement, but I typically go the distance of about three of the tuning pegs past the string I’m cutting, slightly less for the thicker E and B strings. For the D, I just snip the end without any wraps off.

So kinda winging it, like I’ve been doing. I just like to get three wraps on the tuner.

 

[rowsi]

So kinda winging it, like I’ve been doing. I just like to get three wraps on the tuner.

Do what Roger shows in the video down below. I'm doing my measurements exactly the way Roger shows, works like a charm!

Here's the master at work

 

[MikeBass]

View attachment 5189236 Hi guys
First time being on here.
Got my Metroline about 3 month ago. Can anyone tell me if this is normal for the spoke wheel to be touching the back side of the slot/pickguard. Shouldn't there be a gap there?

I don’t have a close up picture of my singlecut Metro, but mine is touching slightly as well.

 

[kevk]

Just my own ‘ocd voodoo’…but I keep an iPhone note which lists all my basses, string specs, cut lengths (past the post)…for example:

Sadowsky WL5 (Sad Black NI 40’s)
B =5-1/2”
E =6-0”
A =6-1/2”
D =6-3/4” (or no cut)
G =7-0”

 

[Chicken Wing]

Just bought this guy and can’t wait to join the club! Metroline J/J View attachment 5185457

I think I’m in love! NBD

 

[HeavyJazz]

Where should Sadowsky players go for chrome plate replacements?