Club Sadowsky!!!

[Vic]

Here's the follow up to my post above...

FWIW, I've previously owned a bass with a spoke wheel adjuster where the holes were NOT drilled all the way through. They were more like "cups", which would be similar to your situation where the truss rod is essentially the bottom of the cup so to speak.

I never had a problem adjusting the rod at all, but I can see how in your case it might seem odd that the truss rod is visible like that.

IMHO, I wouldn't worry about it at all unless it actually becomes a functional problem. Meanwhile, play the hell out of it and enjoy.

 

[Bass Viking]

FWIW, I've previously owned a bass with a spoke wheel adjuster where the holes were NOT drilled all the way through. They were more like "cups", which would be similar to your situation where the truss rod is essentially the bottom of the cup so to speak.

I never had a problem adjusting the rod at all, but I can see how in your case it might seem odd that the truss rod is visible like that.

IMHO, I wouldn't worry about it at all unless it actually becomes a functional problem. Meanwhile, play the hell out of it and enjoy.

Thanks, my mind is at ease now and as mentioned I have the bass set up the way I want it. I’ll just use something more robust to turn the spoke wheel.

 

[John D Harris]

Here is my email conversation with Nicolas Wilfer at Warwick/Sadowsky. I haven't yet received a response to my follow up question.


Hi,

I have a new Sadowsky Metro Express Modern 4 string. The truss rod is very difficult to turn and I actually bent the tool while I was tightening the truss rod. I've noticed the spoke wheel is sitting on the threaded part of the rod so I can only insert the tool into one hole (not all the way through). Is this normal?

Thank you

Peter


Dear Peter,

Thank you for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear you’ve been having trouble with the truss rod.

I completely understand how frustrating this must be, and I appreciate your patience as we work through it together.
The stiffness you’re experiencing is often due to the high density of the roasted maple—this is normal, and while it can make adjustments feel tight,
rest assured we’ve never encountered a truss rod breaking from this. You’re safe to apply steady pressure when turning it.

We’ve actually identified that our current truss rod tool isn’t quite robust enough for some scenarios, and we’ve already redesigned a reinforced version to address this.
Unfortunately, the new tools aren’t in stock yet (otherwise, I’d send one your way immediately!).
In the meantime, many customers have had success using a screwdriver with a similar diameter—this often provides better leverage.

For the issue with the spoke wheel sitting on the threaded part, the most effective solution would be to:

1. Carefully remove the neck (if you’re comfortable doing so).
2. Dismount the spoke wheel and slightly enlarge the hole—this will allow the truss rod tool to insert fully and engage properly.

I know this isn’t the simplest fix, and I truly apologize for the inconvenience.
If you’d prefer not to tackle this yourself, a local luthier or tech should be able to handle it quickly.
Either way, don’t hesitate to reach out if you’d like further guidance or if there’s anything else we can do to assist.

We’re here to help, and your satisfaction means everything to us. Thanks again for your understanding—let me know how it goes!

With best regards.

Warwick GmbH & Co. Music Equipment KG Nicolas Wilfer CEO Hi Nicolas, Thank you for the quick reply. I’m not sure I explained the situation clearly. I am able to insert the tool into the hole no problem but it doesn’t come through the hole on the opposite side of the spoke wheel because the rod is in the way. I’m wondering if it’s designed this way deliberately? Other Metro Express owners have said their truss rods are not like this. In any case, I have the bass set up the way I want and it plays great! Thank you Peter

Would it be possible to mess up the threads on the truss rod with the truss rod tool using this method?

 

[Vic]

Would it be possible to mess up the threads on the truss rod with the truss rod tool using this method?

it might be possible to do some damage to those exposed threads, but those threads aren't the ones that are engaged and doing the work. plus, i'd think you'd have to be really really abusive to do enough damage that you couldn't get it totally off for replacement... if that is even ever needed. just fyi, i have a 21 year old Sadowsky and it's never needed the spoke wheel replaced, and i don't have to turn it much for any adjustments i've had to make.

 

[Jerry J]

I really don't think that this is right. I'm certainly not certain, but it seems to me that the truss rod has backed out of it's tether point at the headstock. I would take the neck off and see if you can double-nut the truss rod back into the other end. Otherwise I would take the bass to a trusted luthier. I would never trust adjusting at the body end with having the adjusting tool only using only one adjuster hole.

But the best thing to do in the meantime is wait for a reply from Warwick. I would help if you knew, for certain, what the headstock end of the truss rod is. Such as how the rod is held.

 

[Vic]

I really don't think that this is right. I'm certainly not certain, but it seems to me that the truss rod has backed out of it's tether point at the headstock. I would take the neck off and see if you can double-nut the truss rod back into the other end. Otherwise I would take the bass to a trusted luthier. I would never trust adjusting at the body end with having the adjusting tool only using only one adjuster hole.

But the best thing to do in the meantime is wait for a reply from Warwick. I would help if you knew, for certain, what the headstock end of the truss rod is. Such as how the rod is held.

yeah, you're not caught up. he's already done that, and i think we've also learned he's not the only one with that going on. my guess is that they're trying to share parts as much as possible, and some of these truss rods are just slightly longer, and are poking through the spoke wheel as described.

 

[Jerry J]

yeah, you're not caught up. he's already done that, and i think we've also learned he's not the only one with that going on. my guess is that they're trying to share parts as much as possible, and some of these truss rods are just slightly longer, and are poking through the spoke wheel as described.

Ah! My bad. Thank you Vic! Parts of Bass Viking's thread didn't show up for me for some reason.

 

[Vic]

Ah! My bad. Thank you Vic! Parts of Bass Viking's thread didn't show up for me for some reason.

I think that happened to me once too! Wasn't sure until you just said this, cuz it kinda' resolved itself next time I loaded the page. Weird.

P.S. Love your RIPs. Both those guys were very good friends of mine, and their loss hit me pretty hard. I still own one of the Zons I bought from Adrian, and it's very special for many reasons... including that one.

 

[Bass Viking]

I really don't think that this is right. I'm certainly not certain, but it seems to me that the truss rod has backed out of it's tether point at the headstock. I would take the neck off and see if you can double-nut the truss rod back into the other end. Otherwise I would take the bass to a trusted luthier. I would never trust adjusting at the body end with having the adjusting tool only using only one adjuster hole.

But the best thing to do in the meantime is wait for a reply from Warwick. I would help if you knew, for certain, what the headstock end of the truss rod is. Such as how the rod is held.

I don't know what the headstock end of the truss rod looks like but Warwick did send me these photos of the body end in case I wanted to remove the nut to enlarge the hole (which I'm not doing).

 

[joel the bass player]

The nut is held on with a screw? I'm confused by that picture. Are the threads you see through the holes the truss rod or a screw?

Just wanted to add, the finest truss rod tool came with my Stingray 5:

Truss Rod Adjustment Tool

Truss rod adjustment tool for Ernie Ball Music Man instruments.

shop.music-man.com

I like the handle better than just the steel rod that came with my MIJ Metroline.

 

[Vic]

The nut is held on with a screw? I'm confused by that picture. Are the threads you see through the holes the truss rod or a screw?

Just wanted to add, the finest truss rod tool came with my Stingray 5:

Truss Rod Adjustment Tool

Truss rod adjustment tool for Ernie Ball Music Man instruments.

shop.music-man.com

I like the handle better than just the steel rod that came with my MIJ Metroline.

i have a couple EBMM basses that both came with that tool and i love it!

 

[Bass Viking]

The nut is held on with a screw? I'm confused by that picture. Are the threads you see through the holes the truss rod or a screw?

Just wanted to add, the finest truss rod tool came with my Stingray 5:

Truss Rod Adjustment Tool

Truss rod adjustment tool for Ernie Ball Music Man instruments.

shop.music-man.com

I like the handle better than just the steel rod that came with my MIJ Metroline.

I dunno, it's hard to tell. I'd have to remove the neck to find out but I have no plans to do that.

 

[Fuzzbass]

just fyi, i have a 21 year old Sadowsky and it's never needed the spoke wheel replaced, and i don't have to turn it much for any adjustments i've had to make.

Dang, you reminded me that the black P5 in my avatar turned 20 years young last month!

 

[Bass Viking]

I had no problem with high fret(s) on my SMX, because mine is a fretless.

But I do have some sunken valleys along the SMX fret lines and high frets near the dusty end of a SML

I had an issue with a fretless Warmoth neck. It was producing a sitar-like sound at the 12th fret, right on the fret line. I had the fingerboard Pleked and that fixed it.

 

[villis]

hey guys i am giving my Sad metroexpress japan final year of production if anyones has any interest...

 

[Vic]

hey guys i am giving my Sad metroexpress japan final year of production if anyones has any interest...View attachment 7216630

I think you meant to say SELLING!! lol. "giving" means you give it away for no money.

 

[villis]

I think you meant to say SELLING!! lol. "giving" means you give it away for no money.

yes sorry for that in Greek when we say give doesnt mean for free...its sell or trade under consideration...but we have an ancient language maybe better than yours so my bad, need to practise my English more

 

[Vic]

yes sorry for that in Greek when we say give doesnt mean for free...its sell or trade under consideration...but we have an ancient language maybe better than yours so my bad, need to practise my English more

LOL no need for apology, i knew it was a language thing. i was partly just also joking with you. good luck with the sale to the next lucky owner.

also, i LOVE Greece! i very much hope to visit there in the next year or two. such a beautiful country. and yes, our language is kind of a mash up of things. not near the long and rich history of yours.

 

[villis]

LOL no need for apology, i knew it was a language thing. i was partly just also joking with you. good luck with the sale to the next lucky owner.

thank you my brother really thank you! i hope this bass go to someone else to get all the love that it needs!

 

[Luckydog]

It seems to me that the exposed threaded rod, even if an intentional design (per Warwick?) causes unnecessary fatigue and deformation to the metal edges of the adjustment hole. All the pressure of the adjustment tool (drill bit, metal rod, nail, whatever) is presented to just one side of the device as you can see from the damage in pic. Also, I find it hard to believe that damage to the threads of the rod is an expected, and normal result from adjusting the neck relief. My guess (clealry just a guess) is that when they saw the situation, they decided that the bass would remain functional for the owner, and more trouble to modify, so they didnt offer a fix to the owner.