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Club Sadowsky!!!

LOL no need for apology, i knew it was a language thing. i was partly just also joking with you. good luck with the sale to the next lucky owner. :)

It seems to me that the exposed threaded rod, even if an intentional design (per Warwick?) causes unnecessary fatigue and deformation to the metal edges of the adjustment hole. All the pressure of the adjustment tool (drill bit, metal rod, nail, whatever) is presented to just one side of the device as you can see from the damage in pic. Also, I find it hard to believe that damage to the threads of the rod is an expected, and normal result from adjusting the neck relief. My guess (clealry just a guess) is that when they saw the situation, they decided that the bass would remain functional for the owner, and more trouble to modify, so they didnt offer a fix to the owner.
while i agree it's better to not have that situation, to be completely fair i think the deformation in that picture looks like screwdrivers or allen wrenches (instead of the correctly sized drill blank or tool to fit the hole properly and completely) were used at some point due to the irregularities of the deformations. i get it tho, you're on a gig, you can't find that tool, and you need to adjust with whatever you have on hand, but that's i think what happened here.

i would think if it did become a problem, warranty should cover any repair. otherwise, if the holes got bad enough, replacing the wheel and always using the proper tool should address it permanently.
 
LOL no need for apology, i knew it was a language thing. i was partly just also joking with you. good luck with the sale to the next lucky owner. :)

also, i LOVE Greece! i very much hope to visit there in the next year or two. such a beautiful country. and yes, our language is kind of a mash up of things. not near the long and rich history of yours. :)
yes if you come here send me a msg !! the islands are great but far from that only a corrupted goverment...we ane not mexico but we are european mexico :laugh::laugh:
 
yes if you come here send me a msg !! the islands are great but far from that only a corrupted goverment...we ane not mexico but we are european mexico :laugh::laugh:
yes, we do our research, and we know people who have gone before (actually some friends of ours are there right now), so we will be prepared to be safe and enjoy. thank you!
 
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i think the deformation in that picture looks like screwdrivers or allen wrenches (instead of the correctly sized drill blank or tool to fit the hole properly and completely) were used at some point due to the irregularities of the deformations. i get it tho, you're on a gig, you can't find that tool, and you need to adjust with whatever you have on hand, but that's i think what happened here.

Fair point, but the counterpoint would be that an incorrect tool would probably not cause damage if it could go all the way through to the opposite side of the wheel, where force would be distributed on both sides. This kind of blockage by the rod seems to be rare, but it's still unfortunate (as I think we all agree).
 
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Fair point, but the counterpoint would be that an incorrect tool would probably not cause damage if it could go all the way through to the opposite side of the wheel, where force would be distributed on both sides. This kind of blockage by the rod seems to be rare, but it's still unfortunate (as I think we all agree).
yeah, like i said, we already agreed on that part. i was just saying there's a viable solution even given the current situation.
 
It seems to me that the exposed threaded rod, even if an intentional design (per Warwick?) causes unnecessary fatigue and deformation to the metal edges of the adjustment hole. All the pressure of the adjustment tool (drill bit, metal rod, nail, whatever) is presented to just one side of the device as you can see from the damage in pic. Also, I find it hard to believe that damage to the threads of the rod is an expected, and normal result from adjusting the neck relief. My guess (clealry just a guess) is that when they saw the situation, they decided that the bass would remain functional for the owner, and more trouble to modify, so they didnt offer a fix to the owner.

while i agree it's better to not have that situation, to be completely fair i think the deformation in that picture looks like screwdrivers or allen wrenches (instead of the correctly sized drill blank or tool to fit the hole properly and completely) were used at some point due to the irregularities of the deformations. i get it tho, you're on a gig, you can't find that tool, and you need to adjust with whatever you have on hand, but that's i think what happened here.

i would think if it did become a problem, warranty should cover any repair. otherwise, if the holes got bad enough, replacing the wheel and always using the proper tool should address it permanently.

Fair point, but the counterpoint would be that an incorrect tool would probably not cause damage if it could go all the way through to the opposite side of the wheel, where force would be distributed on both sides. This kind of blockage by the rod seems to be rare, but it's still unfortunate (as I think we all agree).
Don't worry, the included Sadowsky tool is so soft it won't damage anything! :laugh:
 
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Don't worry, the included Sadowsky tool is so soft it won't damage anything! :laugh:
WHAT? I assume this is a joke, or, they've changed the "tool". The tool I got with all my Sadowsky basses (both USA and Japan) are all hardened steel "drill blanks". Very hard machined material.

??
 
WHAT? I assume this is a joke, or, they've changed the "tool". The tool I got with all my Sadowsky basses (both USA and Japan) are all hardened steel "drill blanks". Very hard machined material.

??
I hardly kid. The tool bent when I used it. See Nicolas Wilfer's reply:

We’ve actually identified that our current truss rod tool isn’t quite robust enough for some scenarios, and we’ve already redesigned a reinforced version to address this.
Unfortunately, the new tools aren’t in stock yet (otherwise, I’d send one your way immediately!).
In the meantime, many customers have had success using a screwdriver with a similar diameter—this often provides better leverage.
 
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Indeed, the tool shipped with the bass is soft as butter and not up to the job. I was offered the option to replace the bass due to the stiffness of the truss rod, but I don't think it will be necessary. With a sturdy (and properly fitting!) tool, I have confirmed that the rod will turn without damaging the spoke.

In any case, after reaching out to Warwick USA, they confirmed that this design is normal for this iteration of the SMX. The threaded part is a screw that goes all the way through the spoke wheel to hold it in place. This was designed to correct issues with the spoke coming loose or rattling in previous designs. To address the poor leverage you get with the current design, for the next design they will be using a recessed screw that won't block the tool from going through both ends of the wheel.
 
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Sweetwater has got Modern’s now! I only see fours in stock. The one pictured is $1,215.
 
I hardly kid. The tool bent when I used it. See Nicolas Wilfer's reply:

We’ve actually identified that our current truss rod tool isn’t quite robust enough for some scenarios, and we’ve already redesigned a reinforced version to address this.
Unfortunately, the new tools aren’t in stock yet (otherwise, I’d send one your way immediately!).
In the meantime, many customers have had success using a screwdriver with a similar diameter—this often provides better leverage.
I totally missed that. gosh darnnitt. well, FWIW, that EBMM tool is awesome.
 
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In any case, after reaching out to Warwick USA, they confirmed that this design is normal for this iteration of the SMX. The threaded part is a screw that goes all the way through the spoke wheel to hold it in place. This was designed to correct issues with the spoke coming loose or rattling in previous designs. To address the poor leverage you get with the current design, for the next design they will be using a recessed screw that won't block the tool from going through both ends of the wheel.
now THAT is also interesting. i've had a bunch of spoke wheel basses, none of them have the threads go all the way through, never had a rattling problem.
 
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The Japan MetroExpress was equally as impressive.
That's the one I have. I also had the shop add a set of the brand new (at the time) stacked humbucker pickups. They had to deepen the routes a bit, so it wasn't a simple swap, but it was worth it. that bass is pretty light and completely noiseless anywhere.

I used to also have a Japanese MetroLine PJ5, but sold it. Now i just have the two custom NYC's, a much older base NYC (very plain jane), and the Japanese MetroExpress.
 

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