• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Club Sadowsky!!!

OK class...this is for your Sadowsky:

guitarstand.jpg



and this is for your tucchus:

chair.jpg



Thus endeth the lesson. :smug:

craig, your sage advice will always heeded.

but where's that "sheepish" smilie when you need it. :D
 
Sweet bass Jokerjkny :bassist:
How does the ebony sound?
Iv heard that ebony gives a quicker response. Is this so?

frankly, when it comes to sadowskies, i've found that the body wood seems to make a bigger impact on response. i.e. all my sadowsky bodies have been and are ash. it adds terrific attack and response. being so close to the shop, i've tried pretty much every sadowsky under the sun, and i remember comparing an ebony/ash sad vs. an ebony/alder sadowsky, and the e/a felt a little too mellow, slow and relaxed for me, while the ash had that quickness i'm used to.

as for the fingerboard, i love the ebony on my sadowsky, and i *hate* ebony. on other basses, ebony sounds almost brittle and too edgy to me. but the sadowsky ebony seems to add a thick syrupy yet articulate top end vs. the sadowsky maple which is airier and more open. dunno if this'll make sense, but its like the ebony is centered and boosted at a particular frequency with a wide "Q" in the highs somewhere, while the maple is a simple boosted high band shelf. both are great, but i'm definitely more on the ebony side.

FYI, i also own an ebony/ash v-5 w/ regular sadowsky humbuckers, and i feel its the same.
 
No worries Craig I will own one when I do.

Let me put it this way. One year tuition probably equals close to if not equal to 10 NYC Sadowskys. Thats just one year. :eek: Man college costs a lot these days! :)

And you will be warmly welcomed to the "club" when you do. A college degree is nice...but it'll really be a great day when you get your first Sadowsky!

I kid of course (about which is a better day).

But it is truly insane how much a year's tuition costs. To make you feel truly hosed...in 1979 a year at Berklee INCLUDING tuition, books, room and board was $3,000.00. Not a semester...a YEAR! And before anyone sez yeah, but adjusting for inflation...:rollno: Comparatively to today using nominal GDP per capita (and I didn't finish college) that's $12,073.50. Granted, Harvard was $22,000 in 1979, and the University of Miami (where I transferred) was double what Berklee was, but Berklee today is $22,230 PER SEMESTER. :eek:

So relatively speaking, a Berklee edjamacation has gone from 3.01 Sadowskys to 11.15 Sadowskys. That's NYCs of course, so your current tuition costs could be turned into even more Sadowskys if you don't need fancy tops or graphite bars and chambered bodies.

:D
OK...I've got waaaay too much time on my hands.
 
...cheap tuner :crying:...
Hey, I know yer just kiddin' but I gotta chime in here... that little cheap-a$$ korg is an amazing tuner. I've got the DT-7 (for the BF tuning) and also the full rack (and IMHO one of the best, if not the best tuners out there) DTR-2000 and now also the new pitchblack pedal. Yeah, I like Korg tuners. :)

Anyway, that little $15 GA-30 kicks royal butt. It's as fast to sync and as accurate as anything else I have, runs forever on a battery, very portable, and is convenient and quick to use for detuning. I carry one all the time in my gig bag and I use it more than any other tuner, and it's never ever failed me or had a problem with a low B. In short, super practical and useful!

HIGHLY recommended.
 
Hey, I know yer just kiddin' but I gotta chime in here... that little cheap-a$$ korg is an amazing tuner. I've got the DT-7 (for the BF tuning) and also the full rack (and IMHO one of the best, if not the best tuners out there) DTR-2000 and now also the new pitchblack pedal. Yeah, I like Korg tuners. :)

Anyway, that little $15 GA-30 kicks royal butt. It's as fast to sync and as accurate as anything else I have, runs forever on a battery, very portable, and is convenient and quick to use for detuning. I carry one all the time in my gig bag and I use it more than any other tuner, and it's never ever failed me or had a problem with a low B. In short, super practical and useful!

HIGHLY recommended.

+1...always in the bag just in case there are problems with my Pitchblack or it is otherwise not practical to use the Pitchblack, which is an outstanding tuner by the way.
 
And you will be warmly welcomed to the "club" when you do. A college degree is nice...but it'll really be a great day when you get your first Sadowsky!

I kid of course (about which is a better day).

But it is truly insane how much a year's tuition costs. To make you feel truly hosed...in 1979 a year at Berklee INCLUDING tuition, books, room and board was $3,000.00. Not a semester...a YEAR! And before anyone sez yeah, but adjusting for inflation...:rollno: Comparatively to today using nominal GDP per capita (and I didn't finish college) that's $12,073.50. Granted, Harvard was $22,000 in 1979, and the University of Miami (where I transferred) was double what Berklee was, but Berklee today is $22,230 PER SEMESTER. :eek:

So relatively speaking, a Berklee edjamacation has gone from 3.01 Sadowskys to 11.15 Sadowskys. That's NYCs of course, so your current tuition costs could be turned into even more Sadowskys if you don't need fancy tops or graphite bars and chambered bodies.

:D
OK...I've got waaaay too much time on my hands.

Yeah, I know. I'm paying 36,000 a year for Saint Louis University. Granted, I'm trying to walk out of there as quick as I can and I'll have two degrees when I do(electrical and computer engineering) but still, that is a lot to pay. O well, its worth it(I hope) :)
 
:help: Does anyone know what the adjustment is. There's almost no clearance with the string held down at the 12th fret. I don't want to over tweek it. Mine is buzzing around 3rd-12th fret.
Thanks
Sounds like you need a bit of relief in the neck. I actually hold down at the last fret and bounce the string around the 12th. I shoot for about a thick pick distance... just enough to visually bounce the string a little. Some folks hold down at the 15-17th fret and bounce around the 7-9th fret, which is probably more accurate, noting the "active range" of the trussrod, but it's just what I'm used to.

The adjustment is to loosen the trussrod. I'd suggest only about 1/4 turn at a time.
 
Sounds like you need a bit of relief in the neck. I actually hold down at the last fret and bounce the string around the 12th. I shoot for about a thick pick distance... just enough to visually bounce the string a little. Some folks hold down at the 15-17th fret and bounce around the 7-9th fret, which is probably more accurate, noting the "active range" of the trussrod, but it's just what I'm used to.

The adjustment is to loosen the trussrod. I'd suggest only about 1/4 turn at a time.

Thanks Vic, When I look down the neck it's almost flat(straight). Is CCW to loosen?
 
Sounds like you need a bit of relief in the neck. I actually hold down at the last fret and bounce the string around the 12th. I shoot for about a thick pick distance... just enough to visually bounce the string a little. Some folks hold down at the 15-17th fret and bounce around the 7-9th fret, which is probably more accurate, noting the "active range" of the trussrod, but it's just what I'm used to.

The adjustment is to loosen the trussrod. I'd suggest only about 1/4 turn at a time.

Actually, from what I was told, the truss rod really only moves the neck from the 1st fret to about the 12-14-ish fret, where the neck bolts to the body.

I hold down the first fret and about the 13th/14th (depending on what bass) and judge the amount about the 7th fret or so.

Maybe Roger will pop on in and set us all straight!;)
 
Actually, from what I was told, the truss rod really only moves the neck from the 1st fret to about the 12-14-ish fret, where the neck bolts to the body.

I hold down the first fret and about the 13th/14th (depending on what bass) and judge the amount about the 7th fret or so.

Maybe Roger will pop on in and set us all straight!;)
Actually, I think you're right for a 21 fret instrument. Mainly, it depends on, like you said, where the neck meets the body. If it's a 24 fret instrument, it's up around the 19th fret, so probably 15-17 would be better.
 
Actually, I think you're right for a 21 fret instrument. Mainly, it depends on, like you said, where the neck meets the body. If it's a 24 fret instrument, it's up around the 19th fret, so probably 15-17 would be better.

I don't have anything with that many frets anymore.
I'm not sure what I would do with the extra 3 or 4!