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I did need to climb a modest learning curve on how the bridge works...
The only real problem I ran into was that one of the saddles wouldn't lock, no matter how tight I torqued the screw. So I took it out of the bridge and pondered how it was supposed to lock. Eventually I caught on that the screw drives a pointed pin into the side of the channel in the bridge's casting--and the reason that particular saddle wouldn't lock is than the pin wasn't free to move side-to-side. So I loosened the screw all the way, and worked the pin back and forth in the saddle until it freed up. After that it locked just fine.
The only real problem I ran into was that one of the saddles wouldn't lock, no matter how tight I torqued the screw. So I took it out of the bridge and pondered how it was supposed to lock. Eventually I caught on that the screw drives a pointed pin into the side of the channel in the bridge's casting--and the reason that particular saddle wouldn't lock is than the pin wasn't free to move side-to-side. So I loosened the screw all the way, and worked the pin back and forth in the saddle until it freed up. After that it locked just fine.
I just pulled the trigger on this
Super excited for it to arrive
Super light model
Super excited for it to arrive
Super light model
I just had a mega string change night for my basses and lo and behold, one of the Sandbergs had a loose saddle. I tried to tighten it but no go. Mine seems to not have a pin on the side. I'll try the tip about working it back and forth.
Even so, having the saddle fall out because it would not stay tightened is not reassuring. The saddle is held in place primarily by string pressure. Imagine breaking a string, and your saddle falls out onto the stage, and you can't find it? Yes, I have broken many strings, so it's possible.
I have Hipshot A and B style bridges on other bass which are also great - especially the A. I haven’t experienced the Sandberg saddles moving around but I haven’t had them all that long, something I should watch out for?
Edit: ahh read the above post, I’ll check this next string change. Both of mine has tight saddles last time. I had the bridge saddle falling off thing on a Warwick before - not fun, but also my own fault since I didn’t check the set screws when it arrived.
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I'm planning to periodically check the tightness of all the set screws. I'm reluctant to put thread lock on them. If I do though, I'll dab it on with a toothpick.
Sooner or later I'll look into a Hipshot bridge. Another plus for the brass Hipshot is that it should help with the small amount of neckdive my SLs have.
Sooner or later I'll look into a Hipshot bridge. Another plus for the brass Hipshot is that it should help with the small amount of neckdive my SLs have.
You need to take out that saddle, loose the screw that needs to hold it locked (the one that moves side needle). Once that screw is loose, shake the saddle gently and the needle will come out again. Then tighten that screw gently again while the needle is aligned with the edge of the saddle, and when you put the saddle back to its place, tighten it more untill it is locked with the needle pushing away the bridge side.
Hardware is definitely Sandberg's weak point. Got an older one and the saddle locking grub screw is located under the string (I believe this has been fixed on the newer units?). Every time you want to adjust something, you need to loosen the string enough to lift it off the saddle so you can access the slot. Not to mention tightening or loosening the locking grub screw tends to shift the saddle, so getting intonation right is tricky.
The bridge is made of soft pot metal too (string ball ends have dug deep grooves into mine), junk like this has no place on a 2k+ bass when you have access to ETS, ABM, Schaller etc. (which they have used in the past). Already got the tuner holes re-drilled for 14mm Gotohs, and the bridge is probably going next.
The bridge is made of soft pot metal too (string ball ends have dug deep grooves into mine), junk like this has no place on a 2k+ bass when you have access to ETS, ABM, Schaller etc. (which they have used in the past). Already got the tuner holes re-drilled for 14mm Gotohs, and the bridge is probably going next.
Here is how the Sandberg bridge works, hope You will enjoy the video 
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Here is how the Sandberg bridge works, hope You will enjoy the video
This Vid is far better than the one i found. Someone just posted this on the UK Basschat site too and i was about to share here when you beat me to it
Just went back and checked and it was your good self.
Dave
Here is how the Sandberg bridge works, hope You will enjoy the video
Thanks for posting.
It illustrates the very poor design. I'm a historian, and it reminds me of the WW2 German tanks, which were so complicated they had much trouble repairing them in the field.
The only thing I actually like about the Sandberg bridge is the quick release feature. Otherwise, I think Leo's design is far better, much less Hipshot.
Have to say, now I've got a Sandberg on order, I'm massively disappointed to hear about an apparent quality issue with the hardware.
I knew of course the bridge had lots of adjustments, but pot metal doesn't sound good to me
Is this really true? I'd expect that on a kid's guitar from Argos, and can't believe I'm only hearing about this now.
Can anyone else confirm?
It's all good. The bridge is totally fine. Never had any quality issues. You're gonna love it. There's always something someone doesn't like about anything.
Mine is not pot metal...
My .02 on the Sandberg bridge:
I really like the way the TM and VM hang on the strap; the natural balance of the bass puts the neck at just the right angle. Another thing I very much like is that the body is compact and the reach to the first fret is less than on the other 34" scale basses I've played.
My guess is that those parameters figured into the design of the bridge; it's fully adjustable, but has a smaller footprint than most.
And to adjust the intonation on any bridge you do have to slacken the string to allow the saddle to move, even when it's threaded onto an adjusting screw like the good ol' bent plate Fender bridge.
I really like the way the TM and VM hang on the strap; the natural balance of the bass puts the neck at just the right angle. Another thing I very much like is that the body is compact and the reach to the first fret is less than on the other 34" scale basses I've played.
My guess is that those parameters figured into the design of the bridge; it's fully adjustable, but has a smaller footprint than most.
And to adjust the intonation on any bridge you do have to slacken the string to allow the saddle to move, even when it's threaded onto an adjusting screw like the good ol' bent plate Fender bridge.
No complaints here. I've found it easy to make any adjustment if needed, and the bridge is totally solid when all the screws are correctly tightened. It's different but works well. I like the rest of the hardware too. The tuners are elegant and lightweight, and the string trees are neat.
