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Club Sandberg (part 2)

Question: Is there any visual indicator on Sandbergs to determine scale length? So many of them, especially on the used market, don't specify scale length in their listings. I'm after a 35" fiver, so hopefully there's a trick to it? Maybe the body joins the neck at a noticably different place, or the bridge is in a different position?
 
Question: Is there any visual indicator on Sandbergs to determine scale length? So many of them, especially on the used market, don't specify scale length in their listings. I'm after a 35" fiver, so hopefully there's a trick to it? Maybe the body joins the neck at a noticably different place, or the bridge is in a different position?
Quoting myself because I think I may have figured it out myself: The upper part of the body seems to hit the fretboard an entire fret higher on a 35" bass than on a 34" bass. Figured this might be useful for someone else as well.

Looks like the same indicator can be used for both T and V series basses.

35" TM5 - Body joins the neck on the 17th fret:
1728302361872.png


34" TM5 - Body joins the neck on the 16th fret:
1728302423485.png
 
I asked for a number again - we'll see. But here is a pic of my Sandbergs (sorry for the duplication of the Florence between the first and second pic), but I do have 2 of them,

View attachment 7051157

View attachment 7051158
I saw that blond 'natural' finish Lionel, noticed the darker streak of wood on the upper bout, and thought 'hey, that looks like the one in the FS classifieds here! What are the chances that two Lionels have that same streak in the wood?'
Lol, I'm a little slow sometimes...obviously it's the SAME bass, now with its new owner. I don't love the look (of natural finishes in general) but I kept coming back to that one and thinking maybe it'd do.
 
I saw that blond 'natural' finish Lionel, noticed the darker streak of wood on the upper bout, and thought 'hey, that looks like the one in the FS classifieds here! What are the chances that two Lionels have that same streak in the wood?'
Lol, I'm a little slow sometimes...obviously it's the SAME bass, now with its new owner. I don't love the look (of natural finishes in general) but I kept coming back to that one and thinking maybe it'd do.
Yeap just got it here on TB from my friend.
 
I guess I’m just not understanding if “passive mode” and “true bypass” are the same thing or different on a bass.

True bypass isn't a term I've ever heard used about basses, it's more of a pedal thing. But if it means the same on a bass, then it indicates that in passive mode, the preamp is completely out of the circuit.

The alternative would be buffered bypass passive mode, where the preamp is in the circuit, but the tone shaping parts are all "turned off".

The possible advantage of buffered bypass would be that you would lose less high-end over long cable runs, while the disadvantage would be that passive mode still requires battery power.

I'm pretty sure that most active basses that offer a passive mode will use the "true bypass" approach, completely eliminating the preamp from the circuit.
 
I know I’m going crazy with the questions here… one more.
I’m wanting to swap the Delano pups in my active TT5.
I really want the Kloppmann’s and between the JB61 and JB71 I definitely prefer the 71’s.
Only thing is - routing position for the pickups on Sandberg TT’s definitely seems to be more so 60’s position.
Any thoughts on this? Putting 70’s wound pickups in a 60’s position bass?
 
I know I’m going crazy with the questions here… one more.
I’m wanting to swap the Delano pups in my active TT5.
I really want the Kloppmann’s and between the JB61 and JB71 I definitely prefer the 71’s.
Only thing is - routing position for the pickups on Sandberg TT’s definitely seems to be more so 60’s position.
Any thoughts on this? Putting 70’s wound pickups in a 60’s position bass?
Keep the Delanos!
 

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