Component rig question

[lowendblues]

Im putting together a rig with a Sansamp Paradriver / Carvin DCM1000 / and an 8ohm GK 410 MBX cab.

Should I bridge the amp like Tech 21 suggest's?? ( I read that somewhere here? ), It would be 600 watts into the 8ohms, the cab is rated at 400 watts. I understand you have to be careful when bridging power amps and dont want to fry my speakers.

Here are the amp specs:

SPECIFICATIONS

OUTPUT POWER
1 CHANNEL RMS continuous
- 8 ohms: 210 watts
- 4 ohms: 325 watts
- 2 ohms: 520 watts
BOTH CH RMS continuous
- 8 ohms: 200/200 watts
- 4 ohms: 325/325 watts
- 2 ohms: 500/500 watts
BRIDGED RMS continuous
- 8 ohms bridged: 650 watts
- 4 ohms bridged: 1000 watts

- Frequency Response: +0/-3 dB 20 Hz - 20 kHz
- THD< 0.1% @ 50% output, <.2% 20-20 kHz @ 90% output
- Output Topology: 94% efficient CLASS D "Green" design
- Power Supply: Switchmode - 40% reserve - see kick drum test
- Damping Factor: >500
- Slew Rate: bridged mode >50v/µs
- Sensitivity (@ 4&#8486: 1.0 Vrms
- Signal to Noise Ratio: Greater than 106 dB
- Input Impedance: >20K ohm balanced

- Speaker Guard™ DC protection for drivers
- Soft-start power-ups: prevents AC breakers from tripping
- Over-Current: protected
- Under-Voltage: protected
- Thermal: protected
- Fan: variable speed
- Shock-proof SMT construction
- FR4 fire retardant circuit boards
- Aluminum chassis
- Air Flow - "rear to front" for cooler rack
- AC generator friendly
- AC auto switching: 90-250VAC 50-60Hz
- Fuse: 10 amps
- 2RU rackmount
- Dimensions: 19" (48cm) wide x 10.5" (26.6cm) deep x 3.5" (9cm) high
- Weight: 9 lbs (4kg)
- Made in the USA
- 3 year warranty

 

[basscooker]

The potential for speaker damage is quite high. it isn't only a function of watts, tho. you're risking cone damage as well depending on eq settings. you could have the amp volume control pretty low, but the amp doesn't care about how low you set it. if you do lots of boosting, you are kind of turning up the volume. a hot signal going into the amp also raises this risk. i think it's a safer bet to just try the single channel and CONFIRM it isn't enough power. plus, this way leaves open lots of options for flexibility: an extra channel open on the amp, the ability to add or change cab configuration (2 ohm stable is also cool). 200 watts thru a 410 is by no means child play. try it first. there's my take.

 

[lowendblues]

Yeah, bridging the amp puts a pretty hot signal into the cab.

I read somewhere here that the bridged signal is recomended with the Para-Driver. Perhaps I'm mistaken.

 

[billfitzmaurice]

the cab is rated at 400 watts.

What's pertinent is that it probably can't make use of more than 200w, so anything more is only going to increase the potential for damaging it.

 

[Splore]

x

 

[Munjibunga]

I run 800- and 900-watt amps into my 600-watt cab all the time. You have to judicious in the application of power.

 

[billfitzmaurice]

The RMS wattage rating is different from the thermal wattage rating..

The RMS rating is a thermal rating.

 

[bongomania]

I read somewhere here that the bridged signal is recomended with the Para-Driver. Perhaps I'm mistaken.

Yeah, no offense but that's not real.

 

[BassmanPaul]

OP your amp is the DCM1000L. The DCM1000 is the older Class AB unit. I own both.

I use mine to drive a 4&#937; 2x10 on each channel with the "Parallel" switch engaged. Even though I've been using stereo power amps since the Seventies I've never felt the need to bridge any of them. I would advise that you run your GK from one channel and leave the other idle. This way your cabinet will be getting about 200W which is about all it can take before running out of excursion. Remember that watts are not that important. To get twice as loud you would have to increase the power by ten times. If you need to get more volume get a second identical 4x10 and run it from the second channel of the amp.

BTW the DCM1000L is a great little power amp!!