Conspiracy to Commit Electronics Megathread

[Jared Houseman]

hows the quality of the wah enclosure? It's about time I own a wah but I'va heard bad things about the diy enclosures out there. I was planning to gut a cry baby

 

[SamuelG]

I got another parcel from Tayda yesterday, I installed everything for a dry run so I could see what it looks like.
I just have to do some soldering and wiring everything up, I also need to wait for the build doc to find out what the last "RADJ" resistor value is.
I decided to try the Pearl Grey box with some 1900H blue knobs since I haven't tried that colour before, I placed it next to 2 other pedals I haven't shown before.
I also got a Wah pedal box from Tayda and you can definitely fit a tube or two in there if you are careful, now I just have to find the tube wah schematic Nathan sent me and I can start experimenting.

Looking good! Once it’s finished I’d love to hear how it compares to your Nobelium.

 

[Tassieviking]

hows the quality of the wah enclosure? It's about time I own a wah but I'va heard bad things about the diy enclosures out there. I was planning to gut a cry baby

It is fairly rough and it is missing several screws to place everything in place, from pictures on the net that is how they come.
It will look good with some paint and TLC and I should have the screws that are missing at home somewhere.
The cut outs are not done very well neither, I was going to put up some pics but for some reason my phone refused to connect to my computer when I tried.
The cog wants a split shaft pot I believe and all the ones I have are very sloppy in the slot, I will have to find a pot with a larger thread somewhere.
It's the first wah I have ever seen dismantled so I don't know how well they usually are made.
I will post some pics when I can.

 

[Tassieviking]

Here are some pics from the Wah pedal enclosure from Tayda, There is no double sided tape on the rubber thread for the pedal, no glue or tape for the bump stops, no felt disc for the stomp switch and the screws for the brackets are not supplied. Also no instructions but you should not need any for something so basic anyway. I just have to get some 1/4" 8G screws for aluminium (Ratchet Bracket, PCB), felt disc, and I should have some contact glue for the rubber thread and the little bump stops.
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Like I said, build quality is not great, would I buy another one ? Yeah I think I would.
I think I will change it to top mounted jacks and find another use for the existing holes, more space for the PCB that way.
Cheers
Mick

 

[Tassieviking]

Tayda has a new colour in their stomp box range that's called chrome green, I am curious and I want to order one but would any C2CE pedal suit Chrome Green ??
I can't work out what enclosure I would want to order in green for a pedal, any ideas anyone ??
I got many C2CE PCB's waiting to be built so I could practically make any of them I want, well, no Vampire Slayer PCB but that stays red on my builds.
Help ??

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EDIT: Maybe it means Nathan needs to design a "Tube" tube screamer for us

 

[darev]

Tayda has a new colour in their stomp box range that's called chrome green, I am curious and I want to order one but would any C2CE pedal suit Chrome Green ??
I can't work out what enclosure I would want to order in green for a pedal, any ideas anyone ??
I got many C2CE PCB's waiting to be built so I could practically make any of them I want, well, no Vampire Slayer PCB but that stays red on my builds.
Help ??

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EDIT: Maybe it means Nathan needs to design a "Tube" tube screamer for us

I'd stick a Tungsten in that. I see the drill template is ready and everything.

 

[Tassieviking]

I have just gotten a Tungsten enclosure in the pearl Grey colour and I placed blue knobs on it as well, I was going to build some other pedals first before I started the next Tungsten, but I guess I can make another Tungsten again next.
What colour knobs do you think would suit the Chrome green enclosure ? White ?

 

[darev]

What colour knobs do you think would suit the Chrome green enclosure ? White ?

Abso-lutely or cream

 

[secondbestcody]

Question about these DIY builds. I got my Nobelium kit from Musikding today. The drilled enclosure doesn’t line up with the grills for the tubes at all, also just two holes instead of slots. Is that normal for these kits?

 

[davelowell2]

Question about these DIY builds. I got my Nobelium kit from Musikding today. The drilled enclosure doesn’t line up with the grills for the tubes at all, also just two holes instead of slots. Is that normal for these kits?

Show us a pic?

 

[secondbestcody]

Show us a pic?

How silly of me. I traced out where the grills would be on the faceplate.

 

[SamuelG]

How silly of me. I traced out where the grills would be on the faceplate.

This is what the drilled enclosure from the template should look like. If you're sure you used the pdf template provided by C2CE, it's a mistake by Tayda. But it'd be worth checking the file you used. Orange oil will clean up that trace
If you're in Aus I have a spare drilled black enclosure you can have for the price of postage if you'd like.

 

[secondbestcody]

View attachment 7346669
This is what the drilled enclosure from the template should look like. If you're sure you used the pdf template provided by C2CE, it's a mistake by Tayda. But it'd be worth checking the file you used. Orange oil will clean up that trace
If you're in Aus I have a spare drilled black enclosure you can have for the price of postage if you'd like.

This is the enclosure from Muzikding. I did start doing some research and ended up ordering a drilled enclosure with the C2CE drill template from Tayda. Thanks!

 

[Tassieviking]

If you have the faceplate then you could just cut some square holes where the vents go, the faceplate is going to cover it anyway.
Perhaps you were meant to make 2 Nobeliums and now you just need another PCB since you have 2 enclosures.
The vents are only there to show off the tubes and are not really needed from what I remember, but my memory could be wrong although I don't think so.

 

[secondbestcody]

If you have the faceplate then you could just cut some square holes where the vents go, the faceplate is going to cover it anyway.
Perhaps you were meant to make 2 Nobeliums and now you just need another PCB since you have 2 enclosures.
The vents are only there to show off the tubes and are not really needed from what I remember, but my memory could be wrong although I don't think so.

Yeah, this is exactly why I traced where the slots were going to be, but I’d much rather have it cut correctly. I’ll assemble it and make sure it’s working and then transfer it all over to the new enclosure when it arrives.

 

[74hc]

The Steddi Go circuit is near-identical to the Ampeg SVTDI and likely also Khan VTDI; both of which use a 12AU7 tube. Maybe that's the preferred tube in this application. I imagine that a AX7 is a bit too gainy.
I'm waiting for Musikding to provide a complete Steddi Go kit, so I can build one for a bandmate as he wants a tube DI for acoustic guitar.

Not really. It's based on the Particle Accelerator with the tone stack removed and the 2nd stage replaced with a cathode follower. Different than a Ampeg SVTDI which doesn't have any Alembic dna.

The SVTDI rumor probably got started when the designer teased a drawing of the board online before selling it. Someone responded if it's a SVTDI clone to which the designer alluded to it, but never stated it directly.

I'm sure the designer would much rather sell a SBVT II than a Steady Go. Thus is perhaps why the Steady Go is more F-2B based.

 

[Tassieviking]

The Steddi Go is definitely a very close match to the Ampeg SVTDI circuit as long as you are looking at the correct SVTDI unit like the one at this link: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...gQFnoECB0QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1Ax58_kvGeHrY8Hi-W-0if
There are other more complex versions called SVTDI around as well but the Steddi Go was made to be a very simple tube DI for those people who did not need anything more complex.

 

[74hc]

That's a different first stage.

Steady Go is an exact match of Particle Accelerator's first stage as I mentioned. Something you seem to conveniently overlook.

What I said still stands. I knew you would come along and try to contradict what I posted.

 

[Tassieviking]

I am merely stating the facts and I posted the schematic and the link to Ampegs own SVTDI manual that proves it, if it does not comply with what you said then you can complain to Ampeg because they did not design it the way you claim they did. Most people would look at the facts and then be gracious enough to admit that they might not have been totally correct.
I did say that there are several different SVTDI circuits around and I did not put you down for not having found the version that the Steddi Go is most likely based on.
It is based on a very common tube stage like nearly all tube circuits are, I could find dozens of similar tube stages in normal tube amps in 5 minutes.
If you look at the very simple drawing of the circuit in the SVTDI manual and the Ampeg SVTDI schematic I posted and then also look at the Steddi Go schematic they are without doubt closely matched in layout and design, far closer then trying to match a small portion of the Particle Accelerators circuit to that of the Steddi Go and then claiming that it is based on that. Nathan has clearly stated that he minimized the circuit to make it as simple as possible while still sounding great and he absolutely achieved what he set out to do with the Steddi Go.
But I could of course be wrong.

 

[wayshot]

I saw an old post of mine being quoted above. I corrected myself a little later with this follow-up:

Both consist of a gain stage with direct-coupled cathode follower. There are some differences in the plate and cathode resistors, though, so maybe I should've chosen a different wording than "near-identical".