Conspiracy to Commit Electronics Megathread

[SamuelG]

I know Nathan normally enjoys seeing his kits ‘in the wild’… but after seeing a messy ‘road-kill’ recently, I thought I’d present some ‘signs of life’ as well as give a shout out to one of Tassievikings MOD’s.
I’ve been using Tassieviking’s HPF mod on Nobelium builds. It’s super easy and very effective. The audible difference between off, 90Hz, and 45Hz (notional) is very clear.
I’d highly recommend it as it adds very little time to my builds.

You can see the extra 4n7 red cap across pins 1 & 3 on the HPF on-off-on switch. What you can’t see is the cut trace between pins 2 & 3.
This is one of my Jensen DI builds.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

I know Nathan normally enjoys seeing his kits ‘in the wild’… but after seeing a messy ‘road-kill’ recently, I thought I’d present some ‘signs of life’ as well as give a shout out to one of Tassievikings MOD’s.
I’ve been using Tassieviking’s HPF mod on Nobelium builds. It’s super easy and very effective. The audible difference between off, 90Hz, and 45Hz (notional) is very clear.
I’d highly recommend it as it adds very little time to my builds.
View attachment 7408029
You can see the extra 4n7 red cap across pins 1 & 3 on the HPF on-off-on switch. What you can’t see is the cut trace between pins 2 & 3.
This is one of my Jensen DI builds.

I never expected to feel the need to say "congratulations on correctly following the assembly instructions," but here we are. Thank you for sharing, this makes me feel much better. Do you find the inductor on the VIN makes a noticeable difference in noise rejection?

 

[SamuelG]

I’m mostly just enjoying going “over the top” with these builds. It costs me very little and I've found an easy way to add it to my build process. Using a CLC filter out front is very likely over-engineered, but might certainly help if people want to daisy chain the Nobelium with another pedal.

 

[Tassieviking]

It certainly looks over the top but it looks beautiful and whoever gets that pedal will be very happy and lucky, that looks like Dale resistors and WIMA capacitors wherever they fit.
Some quick questions for you reverend, what type / brand of inductor did you use in there for the HV supply ?
Where do you source the components in general, I would love to see a BOM for your build.
Cheers
Mick

 

[Tassieviking]

I have never seen CLC filters for pedals as a kit anywhere, perhaps it would be a good idea to make a pedal that has one input and several CLC outputs.
It would be easy and cheap to set up using an old laptop power supply into a 1590B box with LM78XX regulators and a CLC setup after that to an output, set the voltage you want for each output with a LM78XX and a laptop supply should be able to drive lots of C2CE pedals and the odd Sushi one as well.
I only own 2 Sushi pedals so far (Single Slice and PMLE) but I have my eye on a J C Emerald, I keep hesitating on the Emerald because I keep wondering if I should just build the real deal instead. I think a JCM 800 would look nice at my place but I hardly play at all. I guess I'm just a solder fumes sniffer junkie at heart.

 

[SamuelG]

Hey Tassieviking. Yes, Dale resistors, WIMA box film and Kemet electrolytic caps. I’ve had requests for premium & Jensen DI builds so I go over the top for fun. It also funds my solder fumes addiction as well. Some of the premium parts can be bought at Tayda (they’re getting in some WIMA caps etc but not many) for most of it I go to DigiKey. Regarding the HV inductor, I’ve got two left but then I’m changing it again. I’ve found a higher saturation current version that even fits in better. DigiKey product number: 732-4193-ND. It also has a lower DC impedance.
Send me a DM and I’ll see if I can get a BOM to you .
Here is the front for some more eye candy.

 

[Luke the Fluke]

I know Nathan normally enjoys seeing his kits ‘in the wild’… but after seeing a messy ‘road-kill’ recently, I thought I’d present some ‘signs of life’ as well as give a shout out to one of Tassievikings MOD’s.
I’ve been using Tassieviking’s HPF mod on Nobelium builds. It’s super easy and very effective. The audible difference between off, 90Hz, and 45Hz (notional) is very clear.
I’d highly recommend it as it adds very little time to my builds.
View attachment 7408029
You can see the extra 4n7 red cap across pins 1 & 3 on the HPF on-off-on switch. What you can’t see is the cut trace between pins 2 & 3.
This is one of my Jensen DI builds.

Looks very fancy and nice! - extra cap on the power Jack and inductor instead of the diode?

 

[SamuelG]

Looks very fancy and nice! - extra cap on the power Jack and inductor instead of the diode?

The diode is still there. I have the positive pin on the bottom and connect the diode from the positive up to the cap. Then I can run the leads as usual to the VIN. The inductor goes in the original diode slot with a little pin adjustment. I use two 220uF caps. I also have a 4.7uF ceramic cap (usually) under the second electrolytic cap for higher frequencies.

 

[p12bassnut]

Getting ready to build my second C2CE pedal. Ordered the Particle Accelerator PCB.

 

[Luke the Fluke]

The diode is still there. I have the positive pin on the bottom and connect the diode from the positive up to the cap. Then I can run the leads as usual to the VIN. The inductor goes in the original diode slot with a little pin adjustment. I use two 220uF caps. I also have a 4.7uF ceramic cap (usually) under the second electrolytic cap for higher frequencies.

I’m guessing the idea to make the power supply cleaner in terms of hf stuff out of the audio band?

 

[SamuelG]

I’m guessing the idea to make the power supply cleaner in terms of hf stuff out of the audio band?

It is my understanding that typical pedal SMPS modules often switch in the roughly 60–100 kHz region so the 4u7F pcap is to filter this region. It’s out of the hearing range but can (possibly) cause audible artefacts.

 

[Tassieviking]

The C2CE pedal power supply is running at 45,714 Hz or nearly 46kHz, it is easy to work out with the many NE555 calculators on the web.

555 Timer Calculator

An easy-to-use 555 timer calculator that gives you frequency and time high/low for astable mode. And output pulse duration for monostable.

www.build-electronic-circuits.com

 

[BoobieMiles]

Any chance in the future we could see a C2CE version of the Per My Last Email DI for those who failed to get one during the limited run?

 

[Tassieviking]

I would say no but you never know, there are a lot of components so it would be a large box for TH components.

 

[wayshot]

PMLE is pretty close to Venus Z, which is available on the Sushi Box website. Nathan won't make C2CE versions of currently available pedals.

 

[Tassieviking]

Big thank you to Nathan who put some extra XLR daughter PCB's in my last order even though I had forgotten to add them to my shopping cart, I got a big surprise when I opened the package yesterday and found the extra PCB's placed in there.
Nathans memory is better then mine since it must be months since I asked if the new XLR PCB's for the Tungsten was going to be available separately for sale.
Thanks again Nathan.
Cheers
Mick

 

[Tassieviking]

I see there is now fully built Lab Rats in the C2CE store, they look really nice and naturally nice and small as I'm sure they are made with SMD components and not TH like the PCB's are made for.
I am curious what the clipping diodes / LED's set up is in that pedal, I cant remember what I did in my first one but I have another PCB just waiting for me to build it.
I did make a change to the frequency in mine so it has a normal /dark / bass setting on it, it just needed one SPDT on-off-on switch and one cap and one resistor to make that change, here is the circuit I used in mine.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

I see there is now fully built Lab Rats in the C2CE store, they look really nice and naturally nice and small as I'm sure they are made with SMD components and not TH like the PCB's are made for.
I am curious what the clipping diodes / LED's set up is in that pedal, I cant remember what I did in my first one but I have another PCB just waiting for me to build it.
I did make a change to the frequency in mine so it has a normal /dark / bass setting on it, it just needed one SPDT on-off-on switch and one cap and one resistor to make that change, here is the circuit I used in mine.
View attachment 7447082

Stock (1N4148), Turbo (Red LEDs), and Raw (opamp only)

 

[Tassieviking]

I have tried really hard to keep my curiosity in check but it ain't working, what are the tiny components (resistors ?) that are connected to the clipping diodes and clipping LED's ?
The ones in between them.
How are they connected in the circuit ?
I've tried really hard not to ask but I'm not strong enough.

 

[Tassieviking]

To me it feels like it's taking some time for a new pedal PCB to come out, I wonder whats delaying it ?