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Conspiracy to Commit Electronics Megathread

I have tried really hard to keep my curiosity in check but it ain't working, what are the tiny components (resistors ?) that are connected to the clipping diodes and clipping LED's ?
The ones in between them.
How are they connected in the circuit ?
I've tried really hard not to ask but I'm not strong enough.
Grid-leak resistor (0402 size) for the tube stage. You can get by without it if you're just using two clipping options, but if you want to have a diode-less clipping option you'll need something for grid leak or you have issues switching.

To me it feels like it's taking some time for a new pedal PCB to come out, I wonder whats delaying it ?
;):laugh:
Same thing that always delay(I see what you did there)s it, the build document.
 
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Grid-leak resistor (0402 size) for the tube stage. You can get by without it if you're just using two clipping options, but if you want to have a diode-less clipping option you'll need something for grid leak or you have issues switching.


Same thing that always delay(I see what you did there)s it, the build document.
So some quick questions on the grid leak resistors, how did you connect them ?
Leg 2 of the tube to ground ?
From terminal 1 & 3 of the switch to ground ?
What value did you use ?

I was watching to see if anyone noticed the cryptic hint in my previous post, I only know because I am very nosy and hunt around many forums on the net.
Cheers
Mick

EDIT: After another close look on the picture I can see one side of the resistors are connected to terminal 1 & 3 and the other side goes to a VIA on the PCB, I am going to guess that the VIA is going to a ground plane, if I used a SPST ON-OFF ON switch I could place the resistors from terminal 1 to terminal 2, and terminal 3 to terminal 2 on the switch itself to do the same effect ?
 
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So some quick questions on the grid leak resistors, how did you connect them ?
Leg 2 of the tube to ground ?
From terminal 1 & 3 of the switch to ground ?
What value did you use ?

I was watching to see if anyone noticed the cryptic hint in my previous post, I only know because I am very nosy and hunt around many forums on the net.
Cheers
Mick

EDIT: After another close look on the picture I can see one side of the resistors are connected to terminal 1 & 3 and the other side goes to a VIA on the PCB, I am going to guess that the VIA is going to a ground plane, if I used a SPST ON-OFF ON switch I could place the resistors from terminal 1 to terminal 2, and terminal 3 to terminal 2 on the switch itself to do the same effect ?
Well I went back and pulled the schematic and it turns out I remembered incorrectly. I remembered adding a grid leak resistor at one point on the DIY version of the lab rat to make the diode switching work in the middle position, but that's not what these are. These are 1M "bleed" resistors between the outer switch lugs and ground to reduce popping when hot-switching between the clippers.

However they do essentially function as a weak grid leak resistor since they are permanently tied between the diode cathodes and ground, so there's still a path from the tube grid to ground, so they kill two birds with two very small (0402) stones.
 
Hey guys, wanted to see if I ran into a malfunction with my nobelium or am I just misunderstanding the functions? I purchased a prebuilt Nobelium from the C2C website and I’ve been running it with just the xlr out going through the preamp circuit. I recently wanted to switch up my rig and needed the xlr out PLUS the 1/4 out as a dry pass thru. When flipping the switch for the 1/4 out to bypass, my XLR completely cuts out with the occasional-60/70db audio blip. Is it not possible to use the XLR out with the preamp engaged while having the 1/4 out setup as a pass thru? If it should be possible; what should I do? I bought it like 2-3 months ago but it hasn’t left my studio desk, hasn’t been dropped or opened. In the pic below, I should be able to do what I’m asking with the settings as they are correct? Even if it’s not meant to, setting the 1/4 to bypass shouldn’t mute my XLR regardless right?
 

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Hey guys, wanted to see if I ran into a malfunction with my nobelium or am I just misunderstanding the functions? I purchased a prebuilt Nobelium from the C2C website and I’ve been running it with just the xlr out going through the preamp circuit. I recently wanted to switch up my rig and needed the xlr out PLUS the 1/4 out as a dry pass thru. When flipping the switch for the 1/4 out to bypass, my XLR completely cuts out with the occasional-60/70db audio blip. Is it not possible to use the XLR out with the preamp engaged while having the 1/4 out setup as a pass thru? If it should be possible; what should I do? I bought it like 2-3 months ago but it hasn’t left my studio desk, hasn’t been dropped or opened. In the pic below, I should be able to do what I’m asking with the settings as they are correct? Even if it’s not meant to, setting the 1/4 to bypass shouldn’t mute my XLR regardless right?
I'm confused, you need a 1/4" pass through but you don't have anything plugged into the 1/4" output?

The 1/4" dry pass switch connects the output jack to the input jack, but I use shorting jacks so the output jack mutes itself when nothing is plugged in. Which means if nothing is plugged into the output jack and you connect it to the input jack, you are now muting the input jack, which will choke the XLR signal into nothing.

If you're not using the 1/4" output jack, don't try to bypass the 1/4" output, leave it set for PRE. If you have something plugged into the 1/4" output and this is still happening, then something is wrong somewhere.

EDIT: I just saw your email from yesterday, apologies for not getting back to you via email, for some reason my phone doesn't always gives me notifications for C2C emails and I don't actively check it unless I get a notification.
 
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Since I have absolutely no willpower and I am unable to keep a secret I have to post a picture that I found somewhere on the net nearly 3 weeks ago now, I think it will be out in due time with just a slight delay for Nathan to find some time to complete the build docs etc.
It looks like a one tube pedal in a 1950BB enclosure with 4 pots, it is easy to imagine what it is for a regular pedal builder after a good look at the PCB.
I rubbed out part of the name to keep people guessing a little bit
Cheers
Mick
 

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Since I have absolutely no willpower and I am unable to keep a secret I have to post a picture that I found somewhere on the net nearly 3 weeks ago now, I think it will be out in due time with just a slight delay for Nathan to find some time to complete the build docs etc.
It looks like a one tube pedal in a 1950BB enclosure with 4 pots, it is easy to imagine what it is for a regular pedal builder after a good look at the PCB.
I rubbed out part of the name to keep people guessing a little bit
Cheers
Mick
I have the build doc almost finished, I promise it won't be much longer. But I also haven't been sleeping much, so there is that.
 
I have the build doc almost finished, I promise it won't be much longer. But I also haven't been sleeping much, so there is that.
Your sleep and health are far more important then getting a build doc together so take as much time as you want, I am just very eager to get my grubby little hands on all new PCB's you have, even the ones you haven't even thought off yet.
Cheers
Mick
 
Just out of curiosity @Sushi Box FX , on the ready built Bassdude at C2CE what is the input impedance and is it the bright channel with a bright cap across the gain pot or the normal channel that has no bright cap on the gain pot ?
When I build a Bassdude I put the bright cap on a switch so I get more bass on low gain settings with the bright cap disconnected.
Is the pedal ok for piezo pickups ?
I know these are a bit trivial questions but I was thinking some people might like to know the answers, I like to know just because I'm a sticky beak and I get bored when I can't sleep. (It's 6.25am here now) (on the 26th-4-26, it's freaky when people are a day ahead of you, isn't it) :)
On another silly note, why are there no upside down emojis to represent us here in down under Australia, discrimination !
 
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Just out of curiosity @Sushi Box FX , on the ready built Bassdude at C2CE what is the input impedance and is it the bright channel with a bright cap across the gain pot or the normal channel that has no bright cap on the gain pot ?
When I build a Bassdude I put the bright cap on a switch so I get more bass on low gain settings with the bright cap disconnected.
Is the pedal ok for piezo pickups ?
I know these are a bit trivial questions but I was thinking some people might like to know the answers, I like to know just because I'm a sticky beak and I get bored when I can't sleep. (It's 6.25am here now) (on the 26th-4-26, it's freaky when people are a day ahead of you, isn't it) :)
On another silly note, why are there no upside down emojis to represent us here in down under Australia, discrimination !
🙃
 
Just out of curiosity @Sushi Box FX , on the ready built Bassdude at C2CE what is the input impedance and is it the bright channel with a bright cap across the gain pot or the normal channel that has no bright cap on the gain pot ?
When I build a Bassdude I put the bright cap on a switch so I get more bass on low gain settings with the bright cap disconnected.
Is the pedal ok for piezo pickups ?
I know these are a bit trivial questions but I was thinking some people might like to know the answers, I like to know just because I'm a sticky beak and I get bored when I can't sleep. (It's 6.25am here now) (on the 26th-4-26, it's freaky when people are a day ahead of you, isn't it) :)
On another silly note, why are there no upside down emojis to represent us here in down under Australia, discrimination !
Sorry it took me a bit, had to look it up. The ready-built Bassdude D.I. still has a 1MΩ input impedance and a 100pF bright cap on the gain pot. I haven't tried it on a piezo, but I assume it will depend on the pickup. Due to the impedance it's probably best to have a buffer if you're using a passive piezo.

It just occurred to me that my only bass with a piezo (Ibanez SRH500) has an always-on preamp and I have no way of running it passively. May have to modify that.
 
It just occurred to me that my only bass with a piezo (Ibanez SRH500) has an always-on preamp and I have no way of running it passively. May have to modify that.
This bit felt wrong to me and I just could not figure it out, at least until now, don't modify the guitar silly, just buy a new Bass that has a passive piezo pickup in it.
Please don't tell Mrs Sushi who gave you that advice, I bruise easily.
Cheers
Mick
 
I just received a Nobelium. I hooked it up to my Bergantino Forte D with a 2x10 Bergie cab and did an A-B-C comparison with the eq on the Bergie and an Aguilar AG DI box vs. the Nobelium.

There was no comparison. The weight the Nobelium added to the notes was incredible, like playing through a tube amp. No matter how I tried to eq the Bergie and AG I couldn’t replicate that weight. Pretty cool.
 
Hi!

I'm going to put together a Nobelium and a Bassdude and I was thinking about ordering the enclosures from Tayda. I found drilling templates for the enclosures, but I couldn't find any graphic templates and I was wondering if anyone knows where to find them.

Also, I'm curious about Tungsten vs Nobelium... Has anyone compared them and if so, what are your thoughts?
 
Hi!

I'm going to put together a Nobelium and a Bassdude and I was thinking about ordering the enclosures from Tayda. I found drilling templates for the enclosures, but I couldn't find any graphic templates and I was wondering if anyone knows where to find them.
 
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