CORRECT CAB VOLUME

[rptrsn2]

It has more than enough Xmax to deal with it.

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compare other driver cab designs and you'll see the words "displacement limited to" quite a bit more often... Interesting stuff, at least to geeks like me.

not sure what it all means ,but it seems the second example the cab volume total seems to be 6.9 cf which is about what i have, i think.LOL thanks

 

[billfitzmaurice]

My local peavey dealer is recommending a peavey neo driver or a black widow. i wonder if he is considering cab size?

I'm sure he is mostly considering his profit margin.

 

[rptrsn2]

I'm sure he is mostly considering his profit margin.

+1000

 

[Mo'Phat]

It's 3.2mm Xmax gives it only a quarter the displacement limited power capability of the 3015.

I wasn't pimping the Pro-15A over the 3015 (obviously, I'm biased towards the 3015), just that it was the only 15 in the Eminence stable that worked for a bigger cabinet...at least, on paper.

 

[rptrsn2]

I wasn't pimping the Pro-15A over the 3015 (obviously, I'm biased towards the 3015), just that it was the only 15 in the Eminence stable that worked for a bigger cabinet...at least, on paper.

Any inputs appreciated

 

[Mo'Phat]

Looking to replace a speaker in a peavey 115 tvx, would a kappalite 3015 work in this cab?

Why, may I ask, are you looking to replace the driver? Is it blown?

My humble opinion is that if the cabinet is working fine, you should just sell it and buy a cabinet that works for you.

 

[BassmanPaul]

If the driver IS blown check to see if it is one of the PV drivers that have replaceable baskets. If so that would be your best bet I think.

Paul

 

[Thor]

Pull the speaker and measure the cab thickness in inches.

Then measure the outside of the cab and deduct the t
hickness of the cab from your figures. Multiply out the
dimensions in inches and divide the number of cubic inches.

Estimate the thickness of any supports of baffles you may see
and deduct these as well. Divide the final figure by 1728
for your cu ft. result. This is now the internal volume of the
cab.

Next download WinISD (from the Amps FAQ sticky under the
DIY subsection), and plug in the T/S parameters of the driver
into the program. Play with the vents or ports and note the
response frequencies. Optimize.

 

[4Mal]

In general I agree with the post above but ... another option exists as well. To do this right you should know the internal volume of the cab within about 20% ... and you need to know about hte port. Is it round, is it square or a shelf style (looks like a slot on the bottom or side of the cab ...) feed that into WINISD and start playing with the cab voume, reducing it until you get something that looks good ... we can go into more detail about what 'looks good' means if you take this route... To make the cab smaller, use solid styrofoam insualtion available from Home Depot, cut to fit suggly in place yet able to go through the speaker mounting hole. Glue it in place and your cab is now smaller by the volume of the stuff you put in there... and it doesn't weigh a bunch more as that stuff is pretty light... NOTE - I'm talking styrofoam block, not 'pink stuff' fiberglass insualtion - that stuff actually makes your cab seem bigger - you definately do not want that ...

One nagging thought - you could go through all this for nuttin' ... not all 1x15 cab's pair up with 2x10's real well. Sometimes they just don't play well together... Having heard some 2 & 3 ways DIY stuff lately, you really might consider just doing 1 good design and the heck with the 2x10... or pairing the 2x10 with another. I've done the 2x2x10 thing with rig's from Bag End and from Avatar and each of those was strong. The cost of a used Avatar 2x10 isn't all that much more than the raw cost of a 3015LF after all...

 

[DukeLeJeune]

I think the 3015 would work just fine. X-max will be the limiting factor, and to the best of my knowledge it has more x-max than any other 15 that doesn't obviously need a midrange (like the 3015LF or Definimax or B&C 15TBX100).