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Double Bass Cracked Tuner Post

Thank you everyone for your comments! Can i ask if titebond hide glue would work or it must be hot hide glue from solids? If so can i also ask if there are grades or quality differences for hide glue solids and how to differentiate them?
 
Titebond is not a good solution (in both senses of the word). Learning to use hide glue is not difficult, nor expensive. There are different "grades" of hide glue. A dealer (online) will probably define the different varieties for you. Whatever time you put in to learning to use hideglue will pay off for years to come.
 
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This should work for you. Figuring out the right consistency and temperature is on you. I use small jars suspended in a pot of hot water, not too hot or you can kill it. Hit but nowhere near boiling. You want the glue to be nice and runny.
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I've used the Titebond (cold) Hide Glue, in the brown bottle, with success for emergency repairs on open seams. I've not tested it (on scrap wood) for it's strength and reversibility. I highly recommend this glue product, and a handful of spool clamps, and a sound post setter, if you are a bass teacher/clinician and visit a lot of schools and support orchestra festivals.
 
The titebond (cold) glue in the brown bottle plays a dirty trick on luthiers: it re-absorbs moisture out of the air and reconstitutes into syrup again. I have known several luthiers who learned this the hard way, watching their instruments disintegrate during a show in a humid location.

There in Colorado, you can get away with it, but if one of your instruments goes to Alabama, say...then there's gonna be trouble!
 
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I assembled a mountain dulcimer from a kit 47 years ago, using that stuff. It was still together five years ago when it went to a new home. Still, I’ll use it occasionally on nuts and have recommended it to a customer for emergency seam repair, but I don’t trust it. The formaldehyde or whatever it is that keeps it in liquid form, well keeps it in liquid form. It never seems to completely dry hard and the melting point is pretty low. Chuck Traeger recommended adding a bit to hot glue to extend the working time when fitting bass bars and bracing. Not sure what to make of that.
 
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It is, indeed, formaldehyde, which is a carcinogen. I used that reeking garbage on a back crack once. The first warm day, it liquified and ran out of the crack. Never again.

If adding liquid hide glue to the traditional stuff seems strange, true old school workarounds include adding urea to the glue pot to extend open time.
 
Can i also ask the logic why hide glue is better than wood glue as often i see the strength of wood glues like titebond 2 or 3 are much stronger than hide glue, many source also state that hide glue have weaker strength than most wood glue.
 
I’ve spent the better part of two days dealing with a bass on which the ribs came off the lower and one corner block. Somebody thought it was a good idea to use Titebond because it is strong. That will hold it! Well it didn’t. So the lower block spent some time on the belt sander and I spent way too much time on the ribs using a small plane and scraper. Hide glue would have come off in a few minutes with warm water.

Titebond is the bane of every reputable luthier’s existence, mostly because once it’s in the wood it can’t be removed when the repair fails. How might your repair fail? Maybe you don’t get things perfectly aligned when clamping. Maybe you did but while drilling for the dowel, it slips and opens up (but because your glue is so strong, it leaves a splintery mess rather than a clean break). Titebond used to advertise ‘Stronger than the wood itself’. We don’t want that.

Several years ago, when I used Titebond my mentor didn’t explain the ‘why’. He simply walked away and we didn’t speak for days.

It has its place. A repair that for whatever reason can’t be done with hide glue or is the last chance before the dumpster (very rare). If you care, do it right.
 
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Can i also ask the logic why hide glue is better than wood glue as often i see the strength of wood glues like titebond 2 or 3 are much stronger than hide glue, many source also state that hide glue have weaker strength than most wood glue.

Follow up question would be: "how is hide glue reversible and how is this property used in lutherie"?
A: it liquifies with heat -- either by accident in hot cars, or on purpose. Therefore luthier armed with heat guns, flat irons, and hot pads...is how a neck joint can be attacked.
A: it is water soluble before/after curing, which means that the neck joint can be coaxed open with hot water, steam, and/or IPO (Iso Propyl Alcohol) -- or all of the above.
A: theoretically, there is little to no wood lost during fixing of joinery done with HHG.​