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curly maple

#5
Sapwood is a section of tree. All trees have sapwood and heartwood within the trunk. Hard Maple is acer saccharum. You can also find curly Maple in acre rubrum, acer macrophyllum, acer saccharinum, and most any other member of the aceraceae family.

Your original syntax is impossible to answer. Both heartwood and sapwood Sugar Maple are good; as is heartwood and sapwood of Big Leaf Maple.
 
#6
mikeyswood said:
Sapwood is a section of tree. All trees have sapwood and heartwood within the trunk. Hard Maple is acer saccharum. You can also find curly Maple in acre rubrum, acer macrophyllum, acer saccharinum, and most any other member of the aceraceae family.

Your original syntax is impossible to answer. Both heartwood and sapwood Sugar Maple are good; as is heartwood and sapwood of Big Leaf Maple.
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...ohh ok... I see.. well the title or how the seller posted the woods was "curly maple 100% sapwood" thats why I titled it like that...but with the bubinga I should be fine.. right???
 
#7
I would lean toward curly hard maple (sugar maple). I built two 5 string necks with pretty much the same construction... curly maple with grain quartered running perpendicular to the fingerboard and laminates of stiffer woods like wenge or purpleheart. Both had dual action truss rod and two carbon fiber rods. The neck with the (sugar) curly hard maple moves a little less under string tension. Both ways work fine, but the soft maple neck has more tension on the truss rod when set up.
Are you planning on laminating with other species of wood?
Joe
 
#8
bassmanhamilton said:
I would lean toward curly hard maple (sugar maple). I built two 5 string necks with pretty much the same construction... curly maple with grain quartered running perpendicular to the fingerboard and laminates of stiffer woods like wenge or purpleheart. Both had dual action truss rod and two carbon fiber rods. The neck with the (sugar) curly hard maple moves a little less under string tension. Both ways work fine, but the soft maple neck has more tension on the truss rod when set up.
Are you planning on laminating with other species of wood?
Joe
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..yeah bubinga..??? ....maple/bub/maple/bub/maple/bub/maple... something like that.. the center bubinga might B 1/2" the out sides 1/4"
 
#9
I have had this discussion a lot with people, and I always look at it this way. Soft Maple is harder, denser and stiffer than Mahogany(genuine) or Walnut, and both have been commonly used to make necks for decades. Matching it with bubinga should be quite adequate, but remember that straight grain(quartersawn if possible) is mandatory when using soft maple for a neck.
 
#11
That's it! I'm building a neck through in the style of BC Rich with a one-piece flatsawn Quilted Red Maple neck to prove:

1) The "soft" Maples are still harder than most other species.
2) Quartersawn makes no difference at all.

:)
 
#12
Musiclogic said:
I have had this discussion a lot with people, and I always look at it this way. Soft Maple is harder, denser and stiffer than Mahogany(genuine) or Walnut, and both have been commonly used to make necks for decades. Matching it with bubinga should be quite adequate, but remember that straight grain(quartersawn if possible) is mandatory when using soft maple for a neck.
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""but remember that straight grain(quartersawn if possible) is mandatory when using soft maple for a neck."" ok now I need to go to google to see what quartersaw looks like..I don't know nothing about quartersaw ,str8saw, flatsaw...lol

bassmanhamilton said:
Yeah, I agree that should be fine. I would orient the grain so that it is quartersawn on my laminates. Good luck!
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yes good "luck" indeed.. I dont believe in luck..but that another thread and site all together....:hyper:

mikeyswood said:
That's it! I'm building a neck through in the style of BC Rich with a one-piece flatsawn Quilted Red Maple neck to prove:

1) The "soft" Maples are still harder than most other species.
2) Quartersawn makes no difference at all.

:)
Click to expand...
..quartersaw makes no diff....OK>.!! I'm back in the game:hyper:


better yet..has anyone here brought wood from this guy:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250656413429&fromMakeTrack=true
if you did, then you can tell me if its quart-saw...flat...round...split....saw
and what I do is, I would recieve the wood, plane it and then take it to my table saw (in case of a bolt on neck and I plan on doing it for my neck-thru) I would split/cut the wood into one inch strips (excuse me, I am ignorant when it come to "wood" terms) turn the wood over so that the original top Bcomes the gluing sides..(I'm trying to paint a clear pic) I dont know if I've turn flatsawn to quart or quart to falt.. but it has been working for me.... thanks again guys.. all of you are big help
 
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#13
mikeyswood said:
That's it! I'm building a neck through in the style of BC Rich with a one-piece flatsawn Quilted Red Maple neck to prove:

1) The "soft" Maples are still harder than most other species.
2) Quartersawn makes no difference at all.

:)
Click to expand...

I see Mikey at his shop every night with this little walnut alter:help:, and that pic of Bernie Rico in the blue lesiure suit,:hmm: lighting candles and chanting.:eyebrow:.....hehehehehehe:D:p
 

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