Hello. I've noticed a problem lately with my Sterling by MusicMan SUB bass. I ordered if from the US to Russia. First of all, I set everything: changed the strings, adjusted the truss rod, string height and pickup height. Set an intonation properly. But though strings are not high, I have some tinkle on 14-20 frets. I googled it, the problem is that truss rod is not set properly. But actually I set it right, the distance between 8th fret and 4th string is minimum (on pressed 4th string on the 1st and last frets). I also checked the truss rod every day because sometimes wood needs time to get used to tension. So now I have properly (?) set up bass and tinkle on the last frets. I dunno what to do... tross rod is set fine, and I don't want to rise my strings because they are alredy pretty high (on my old bass strings are even lower and no tinkle at all). Where is the problem? I can add additional photos if you want.
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Curved neck?..
- Thread starter aplusk
- Start date
If you've set the trussrod and the relief is very little, as you say-
try a .010 or .020 shim in the nut end of the pocket, NOT the bridge end, string it back up, and see if that allows you to set the relief to your liking and also get rid of the buzz (tinkle) on the upper frets.
If it does, you can sand that .010 or .020 off the bridge end of the neck keeping a flat taper, or just leave the shim.
try a .010 or .020 shim in the nut end of the pocket, NOT the bridge end, string it back up, and see if that allows you to set the relief to your liking and also get rid of the buzz (tinkle) on the upper frets.
If it does, you can sand that .010 or .020 off the bridge end of the neck keeping a flat taper, or just leave the shim.
I don't think a shim is the solution. Are you getting fret buzz on all notes you play? does it do it on open strings or just when fretted? Also does this happen on all strings?
Hopkins
Commercial User
I can pretty much guarantee that the problem isn't the truss rod, the neck just needs a basic fret job. Low cost instruments can be a great value, but most of the time fret work, action at the nut, and other things that separate budget instruments from high end instruments leave a lot to be desired. I would take it to a tech and have a fret job done, and have the action at the nut slots lowered and you will have a very nice playing bass.
"Trying" a thin shim is completely reversible, and costs little.
Try an aluminum strip (perfectly flat), or even a piece of cardboard just to see.
Then, you'll see if it helps or not and go from there.
As Hopkins said, likely not a trussrod problem.
Why spend a lot of money for repairs that may not be required?
Try an aluminum strip (perfectly flat), or even a piece of cardboard just to see.
Then, you'll see if it helps or not and go from there.
As Hopkins said, likely not a trussrod problem.
Why spend a lot of money for repairs that may not be required?
This problem is caused by a rise at the neck heel. Shims don't do anything for that-shims adjust action.
Shims work either way.
You can counter "a rise at the neck heel" with a shim at the other end of the pocket.
That just tilts the neck in the opposite direction that a shim in the bridge end of the pocket does.
It doesn't take much, just .010 to .020 usually.
Then, if that gets the adjustment room needed, the choice can be made to trim the neck, the pocket, or just leave the shim.
You can counter "a rise at the neck heel" with a shim at the other end of the pocket.
That just tilts the neck in the opposite direction that a shim in the bridge end of the pocket does.
It doesn't take much, just .010 to .020 usually.
Then, if that gets the adjustment room needed, the choice can be made to trim the neck, the pocket, or just leave the shim.
Hopkins
Commercial User
If the neck is ski jumped, shimming the front of the pocket wont really help, other than the fact that it will raise the action. If you want to achieve low action on a neck like that you really have to fix the problem. In the OPs case I doubt his neck has a ski jump issue, I think it just needs a basic fret job.
+1 to fret work.
That said, I spent years playing around with setup, trying to get super low action with no fret noise. Then I was in a recording studio, and I happenned to ask the engineer about the best bass player he had ever recorded, and anything that stood out about him. He told me about recording abe leboriel (sp?), and how he constantly complained that they were recording him too clean, and he couldn't hear enough fret noise. Since that time, i've fallen in love with fret noise, it adds a lot of character and nuance to the sound, especially on the attack. Ymmv.
That said, I spent years playing around with setup, trying to get super low action with no fret noise. Then I was in a recording studio, and I happenned to ask the engineer about the best bass player he had ever recorded, and anything that stood out about him. He told me about recording abe leboriel (sp?), and how he constantly complained that they were recording him too clean, and he couldn't hear enough fret noise. Since that time, i've fallen in love with fret noise, it adds a lot of character and nuance to the sound, especially on the attack. Ymmv.
