Hopkins
Commercial User
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Custom Grabber - 1st A to Z build
- Thread starter ThaCoast
- Start date
I've accomplished the route of the neck pocket at 5/8ths. Looks good although some minor flaws. Onto my next conundrum: There's like a good thick 1.75 where the neck/body joint is. I was wondering how i could shave off part of it to make it slanted and less bulk for access to upper frets.
Also fretboard!!!
Also fretboard!!!
Attachments
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,734
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Looks good! I suggest you shape the neck heel the same way you shaped the body bevels.
Also, you can fine-tune the neck pocket depth by putting a straightedge on it and checking the height at the bridge. Compare that to your bridge's minimum string height - those two measurements should be about the same. You may find your neck is still a bit high, and so can route the neck pocket a little deeper.
Also, you can fine-tune the neck pocket depth by putting a straightedge on it and checking the height at the bridge. Compare that to your bridge's minimum string height - those two measurements should be about the same. You may find your neck is still a bit high, and so can route the neck pocket a little deeper.
I was thinking of having it contoured or something like this
I might do that sometime this week after i figure out the heel conundrum
. Just a little sanding to do on the body in the lowest cutaway to make it flush with the neck piece.
I've succeeded in rasping out a heel contour. It looks pretty mice. Just a few touch ups and round overs to do to make it perfect (still little too sharp for me so once the screw holes are drilled, i'll know exactly where and how much to round off). Also filed down the headstock a little bit on the edges and now it looks 100X better. Tomorrow i'll be getting an update on my hipshot clover tuners. Not much work to be done this week. The neck will start to see shape once the body is in it's painting phase.
I'm also considering giving the neck a nice tint to it. Not too yellow like fenders or the real gibson grabber, just a hint of tint!
I'm also considering giving the neck a nice tint to it. Not too yellow like fenders or the real gibson grabber, just a hint of tint!
Last edited:
Went down to my music store and still no hipshot tuners. I might just get something else that's still within the clover style but a different make, cause this is ridiculous....
Hipshot Ultralites order canceled. I may have found toher tuners that are inexpensive and will still look the part & do their job. But if you guys have suggestions, i'm all ears (eyes) Not much build going on today, as i have to catch up on school work.
Hipshot Ultralites order canceled. I may have found toher tuners that are inexpensive and will still look the part & do their job. But if you guys have suggestions, i'm all ears (eyes)
Not much build going on today, as i have to catch up on school work.
Last edited:
Today i've acquired the new tuners and CTS correct black speed knobs. TUners are schaller BM tuners in chrome. What i needed but didn't want to spend that much on the tuners. Oh well. Building resumes tomorrow even if it's not much.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,734
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Shame about the Ultralites. Tuner weight really does make a difference, I've learned. The Gotoh Res-O-Lites are great, as are the Hipshots. Schaller makes a "BM Light", I think it's called, with the black composite body. The same tuner with clover heads is Fender-branded; I have those on my RayBird and they're really nice. Grover recently announced their version which is very similar.
It may not be much of an issue, though, with that extra-thick body you have!
It may not be much of an issue, though, with that extra-thick body you have!
Last edited:
Meh, i've learned that i shouldn't go for something just for the sake of it. Personally, as long as it does the job with no flakes and cons, it's fine by me. But i doubt i'll have much issue with weight like you said. & here's the thing, i'v ejust realized they're nickel plated, not chrome like the rest of the hardware. So far i don't mind it so much, should've checked the box, but then again, i specified chrome at the store and he handed me the box and i even looked at them hahaha. But i don't think it'll get on my nerves anytime soon. Tomorrow's work will include finding screws to bolt the neck on, drill the holes to join both pieces and then sanding down a bit more, to a smooth 320 grit since it's only at 150 for the moment.
So yesterday i've installed the tuners & drilled the holes for the bolt on neck. It looks very nice, but for now it's very heavy due to the hardware. I assembled everything to get a feel for what it'll looked like. I'm pleased with it.
I also need to route a bit off the neck pocket since the strings are dead flat with the board itself. But they do clear the pickup. Anyway, i'm shaving a little at a time and seeing how it looks afterwards. I'm also going to shape the neck to it's roughly final profile. I'm thinking of getting a thicker strap for it, if ever my Dad wants to play standing up hahaha. i'm pretty pleased with this so far, and can't wait for the painting to begin.
Speaking of which, what type of clear coat do you guys use when refinishing a guitar/bass? I'm looking to use gloss clear for the headstock front and the body in whole, and satin clear for the back of the neck. Thanks guys, & don't mind the mess, don't actually have a workshop for all this so it's inside the house when it's cold and outside when it's still acceptable. Stay tuned for more, painting should begin this week if not the next one
I also need to route a bit off the neck pocket since the strings are dead flat with the board itself. But they do clear the pickup. Anyway, i'm shaving a little at a time and seeing how it looks afterwards. I'm also going to shape the neck to it's roughly final profile. I'm thinking of getting a thicker strap for it, if ever my Dad wants to play standing up hahaha.
i'm pretty pleased with this so far, and can't wait for the painting to begin. Speaking of which, what type of clear coat do you guys use when refinishing a guitar/bass? I'm looking to use gloss clear for the headstock front and the body in whole, and satin clear for the back of the neck. Thanks guys, & don't mind the mess, don't actually have a workshop for all this so it's inside the house when it's cold and outside when it's still acceptable. Stay tuned for more, painting should begin this week if not the next one
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,734
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Alright, that looks sweet! I've only ever used either Deft rattlecan clear gloss lacquer, or a rubbed-in oil finish, so I'm not much help there...
The body has been completely sanded smooth. Every curve, all the round overs. Painting should begin today. With some dupli color Blue flake as a base, then in a few day's after probably 3 coats of blue flake, i'll apply 2-3 coats of rust-o-leum deep metallic purple. Wait a week, 1st wet sand and then apply the clear coat of gloss.
- Jul 1, 2005
- 4,292
- 21,944
- 80
- Disclosures
- CataldoBasses: Designer/Builder ThunderBuckerPickups:Consultant
Why are you putting metal flake UNDER a metallic? Metallics and metal flakes are opaque. SOP is one or the other on top of a suitable primer with a compatible clear on top.
I tested thme both on a scrap piece of wood that was excess from the body wood blank. I sprayed the blue flake first, then sprayed teh metallic purple over it & they actually works. i still have flake but i'm making the purple just a tad darker. It's cause i'm going for a dark purple metal flake color. It's what my dad saw once years ago on either a guitar or a bass, not sure if it was an actual grabber that he saw, but he said it was one color he hadn't seen since and it'd be cool to have. It's more for him than for me, but the paint scheme works. And I'm not using primer. Last time i used primer, certain parts didn't look right so i've just gone on bare wood.
Just so i get it out, can someone explain what opaque is? i don't think i've heard that term before...(yes i'm a noob when it comes to paint types other than the colors although i know what solid, metallic, transparent and all the colors fender/gibson have on certain series.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Hopkins
Commercial User
Well, metallic paints are opaque. Flake finishes require a base coat of the right color to look good. But it sounds like he is just using two different metallics in rattle cans.
I took two pictures, one has flash the other doesn't. I think my main reason for using the flake is to get the flake, but why blue and not silver/gray: cause i want the purple color to be a little bit darker than what it would be. So far, at least on the test piece, it works like a charm.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
Attachments
- Jul 1, 2005
- 4,292
- 21,944
- 80
- Disclosures
- CataldoBasses: Designer/Builder ThunderBuckerPickups:Consultant
Yes, I was referring to rattlecan (so called) metalflakes which are just metallics with bigger particles. All that matters is if Andy is happy with the results.
