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Cycling for 100 Miles?

Start increasing your miles soon and see how things work. I'd probably refuse that kind of ride without road shoes, drop bars, cycling clothing, etc. I once did a 75 mile ride on a mountain bike without cycling shorts and cycling shoes. My ass and feet felt much more thrashed than my legs. I also picked an extremely hot day and did not gradually ramp up the miles.
 
I just came back from a 24 mile ride :)

I've been training on the stationary bike on highish resistances since I last posted, mostly because I couldn't find the time to go out on the actual bike path during daylight. Finally found the time today.

I feel pretty good and had a blast. I saw things I didn't know were there. I feel that I could bike for much longer, and I definitely will next time.

The gear talk: I wore biking gloves, bike shoes with clipless pedals, and generic training shorts and shirt.

The gloves: they didn't help with my hands going numb at all. I am not even sure if it'd be better or worse without them. They're normal, padded biking gloves, woolen mesh on top and leather on the bottom. I definitely need to get a drop bar bike. I still feel uncomfortable biking hands free, but just a minute was enough to give my hands a rest and it felt real good. I'll need to work on that more.

Clipless pedals and shoes: The shoes are light, comfortable, will ventilated and rigid, they are great. I'm very happy with them. However, I don't see how the clip helped. I bought Invalid Link Removed pedals (platforms on one side, clip on the other) and went both locked-in and on the platforms, didn't notice the difference. My foot position is identical in both positions. I tried to not apply pressure to the pedal while locked-in (kinda like pedaling while floating instead of standing on pedals) but I didn't notice a performance gain. I accept that there should be a gain and blame inexperience.

Clothes: I bought biking shorts but, just as was leaving home, realized that I don't have anywhere to put my documents and phone. I changed to gym shorts instead. It was comfortable enough, I didn't feel the need to move around in the seat nor did I go numb or anything.

Bike helmet: I hated it. I have a generic bike helmet (might be one of these) and it was heavy, it was warm, and the straps annoyed me enough to unstrap eventually (as unsafe as it is).

Ever since I was a kid I've been uncomfortable with watches, jewelry, necklaces etc; anything that wraps around you like that feels pressuring to me and, in case of the neck, actively choking. I could never stop moving them around, scratching etc, and never owned anything like that since early teens. The chin strap, even when very loose, made me remember that feeling. Only once I unstrapped it did I start enjoying the ride.

This is an actual problem. My daily commute has been a few miles on a dedicated, no-car no-pedestrian bike path and I felt safe leaving that damned helmet at home. That is no longer the case, I need a helmet I'd like. Is there one that straps without pressuring the jaw or the neck? Any advice otherwise?

Looking forward to the next weekend :)
 
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Very little power is generated from pulling up on the pedal. It can help with small bursts, but not the long haul. Clipless pedals and shoes are more about giving yourself a very stable and consistent platform for your foot. The right or wrong cleat placement can make a lot of differences.

If gloves aren't helping, you've got too much bend in your wrists and/or you're putting too much weight on your hands. Straight bars are going to limit the amount of positions you can use. Aero/touring bars became popular for aerodynamics and another place to rest your hands and body.

You'll want a decent bike jersey. They generally have 3 pockets. You really don't need much beyond a car/house key, $, cell phone, and some snacks. Keep the $ and cell phone in a ziplock. I keep some tubes, CO2, and tools in my saddle bag. Two bottles on the frame.

Sounds like you need a better helmet. Before anyone get mad at the helmet/seatbelt nazis, a good friend of mine got clipped by a car and his helmet saved him on Saturday. A diabetic friend of mine passed out last summer and the helmet prevented a serious concussion. It's not something to mess with.
 
IMHO a centurion is more mentally challenging than it is physically challenging. You will hit multiple walls that your just gonna haved to push through. You think you have no more juice left even though you have plenty left. At hour 8, I thought I had used every ounce of energy in me but when I got 50 ~ ish miles away from home, I clicked into another gear and pretty much non-stop rode home.
 
Very little power is generated from pulling up on the pedal. It can help with small bursts, but not the long haul. Clipless pedals and shoes are more about giving yourself a very stable and consistent platform for your foot. The right or wrong cleat placement can make a lot of differences.

If gloves aren't helping, you've got too much bend in your wrists and/or you're putting too much weight on your hands. Straight bars are going to limit the amount of positions you can use. Aero/touring bars became popular for aerodynamics and another place to rest your hands and body.

You'll want a decent bike jersey. They generally have 3 pockets. You really don't need much beyond a car/house key, $, cell phone, and some snacks. Keep the $ and cell phone in a ziplock. I keep some tubes, CO2, and tools in my saddle bag. Two bottles on the frame.

Sounds like you need a better helmet. Before anyone get mad at the helmet/seatbelt nazis, a good friend of mine got clipped by a car and his helmet saved him on Saturday. A diabetic friend of mine passed out last summer and the helmet prevented a serious concussion. It's not something to mess with.

I don't have anything else to say while the masters are here, but I want to share 2 experinces of mine.


Cleat positioning is very important. I couldn't adjust mine properly and add in my meniscus on both knees, I'm staggering from time to time and pain is way too much. Haven't been able to ride for the last 2 weeks.


I also headbutted pavement once. I was going on a straight road that I had rode 100+ times before, one second later I was flying. Ended up with a broken wrist, damaged helmet and torn apart outfit.

Hope you don't get unlucky with your experience as I did with mine.:thumbsup:
 
Very little power is generated from pulling up on the pedal. It can help with small bursts, but not the long haul. Clipless pedals and shoes are more about giving yourself a very stable and consistent platform for your foot. The right or wrong cleat placement can make a lot of differences.

If gloves aren't helping, you've got too much bend in your wrists and/or you're putting too much weight on your hands. Straight bars are going to limit the amount of positions you can use. Aero/touring bars became popular for aerodynamics and another place to rest your hands and body.

You'll want a decent bike jersey. They generally have 3 pockets. You really don't need much beyond a car/house key, $, cell phone, and some snacks. Keep the $ and cell phone in a ziplock. I keep some tubes, CO2, and tools in my saddle bag. Two bottles on the frame.

Sounds like you need a better helmet. Before anyone get mad at the helmet/seatbelt nazis, a good friend of mine got clipped by a car and his helmet saved him on Saturday. A diabetic friend of mine passed out last summer and the helmet prevented a serious concussion. It's not something to mess with.

All simple and good answers.

By the way, I want to ride with a helmet, it just has to not annoy me. I'm going back to the bike store one of these days.

How about just doing a Google search for "How to train for a century ride"? I came across more hits than I could shake a stick at.

Well, for starters, I never heard of a 'century ride' before this thread. I just wanted to bike. I did look online too and we discussed my findings here.

I don't have anything else to say while the masters are here, but I want to share 2 experinces of mine.


Cleat positioning is very important. I couldn't adjust mine properly and add in my meniscus on both knees, I'm staggering from time to time and pain is way too much. Haven't been able to ride for the last 2 weeks.


I also headbutted pavement once. I was going on a straight road that I had rode 100+ times before, one second later I was flying. Ended up with a broken wrist, damaged helmet and torn apart outfit.

Hope you don't get unlucky with your experience as I did with mine.:thumbsup:

Wow, I hope you're recovering.

I'm going to get my bike fitted as soon as I replace it, but for now, the only discomfort I've ever had was my hands going numb. That doesn't mean that more issues wouldn't arise in longer rides, of course.

I did fall of my bike once, helmetless. There's this section of the bike path that goes through a forest with a steep downhill section just as you enter, so you usually pick up a lot of speed. After one curve, two teens were walking their dog on the bike path, with them on one side of the road and the dog on the other, leash in between. I lost control as I tried to break, the path was covered with leaves and debris, it was october or something. I tried to go around them off road, just barely made it by fell on my jaw and knee, then rolled for a bit and ended up thoroughly scratched but didn't break anything. I had to get multiple stitches and the subsequent infection had me delirious for a couple of days. No one got hurt by me and my bike.

I understand the necessity of a helmet, I just need to find a better one.
 
I did fall of my bike once, helmetless. There's this section of the bike path that goes through a forest with a steep downhill section just as you enter, so you usually pick up a lot of speed. After one curve, two teens were walking their dog on the bike path, with them on one side of the road and the dog on the other, leash in between. I lost control as I tried to break, the path was covered with leaves and debris, it was october or something. I tried to go around them off road, just barely made it by fell on my jaw and knee, then rolled for a bit and ended up thoroughly scratched but didn't break anything. I had to get multiple stitches and the subsequent infection had me delirious for a couple of days. No one got hurt by me and my bike.

I understand the necessity of a helmet, I just need to find a better one.

Wow, I'm glad you're allright. It could have been a lot worse.

I'm in the market for a new helmet too. My helmet took a beating, it also boils my head and the straps choke me.

I've done some reading and it seems Specialized Align has good ventilation and is a good bang for the buck. You may read the reviews on that too.
 
Wow, I'm glad you're allright. It could have been a lot worse.

I'm in the market for a new helmet too. My helmet took a beating, it also boils my head and the straps choke me.

I've done some reading and it seems Specialized Align has good ventilation and is a good bang for the buck. You may read the reviews on that too.

Specialized makes good stuff. I thought about their aero road helmet. I'm supposed to get a team discount, but the #@%@ clerk knew nothing about that and I passed. Still undecided about my next helmet.
 
Wow, I'm glad you're allright. It could have been a lot worse.

I'm in the market for a new helmet too. My helmet took a beating, it also boils my head and the straps choke me.

I've done some reading and it seems Specialized Align has good ventilation and is a good bang for the buck. You may read the reviews on that too.
Helmet comfort is going to be all about the fit. Ventilation is great, but you're never going to be quite right if the helmet isn't well contoured to fit your skull. Some brands (Bell) are good for a round head; others (Giro) work better on an oblong or oval head. Spec has generally trended toward oval-shaped helmets. If you can, it's really best to try on a few different helmets to see which shape fits you best. And make sure it's properly fitted! The number of helmets I see with mis-placed straps, or tipped back on the forehead, or even backward...ouch.Proper set-up means the difference between kinda-sorta comfortable, and aaahh!

(For the record, basic fit: The straps should meet just below the ears, more or less over the jawbone. The helmet should cover the forehead--the skin over the brow should move when the helmet is tipped forward/back. If the helmet tends to tip back off the forehead in use, it means the front straps are too long--100% of the time.)

I've mostly worn Giro helmets for many years. However, a Specialized helmet saved my life, so I feel pretty good about them, too.

Specialized makes good stuff. I thought about their aero road helmet. I'm supposed to get a team discount, but the #@%@ clerk knew nothing about that and I passed. Still undecided about my next helmet.
Eh, go easy on the clerk. Keeping track of team discounts can be a real PITA. I had to deal with a changing roster for each of four sponsored teams, as well as a revolving door of seasonal staff. We treated our teams very, very well, but sponsored racers knew they might have to take a back seat for customer service when we were in the weeds. (FWIW, as a shop manger, I would encourage team members to call ahead on some purchases. That way, I could prepare a discounted invoice.)

By the way, Spade. I've seen pics. If I was still in the game, I'd sell you Giro all day long.
 
Helmet comfort is going to be all about the fit. Ventilation is great, but you're never going to be quite right if the helmet isn't well contoured to fit your skull. Some brands (Bell) are good for a round head; others (Giro) work better on an oblong or oval head. Spec has generally trended toward oval-shaped helmets. If you can, it's really best to try on a few different helmets to see which shape fits you best. And make sure it's properly fitted! The number of helmets I see with mis-placed straps, or tipped back on the forehead, or even backward...ouch.Proper set-up means the difference between kinda-sorta comfortable, and aaahh.

I bave an oval head, well it's more like a tower though hahah.:D

Specialized it is then, thanks for the information.:thumbsup:
 
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Eh, go easy on the clerk. Keeping track of team discounts can be a real PITA. I had to deal with a changing roster for each of four sponsored teams, as well as a revolving door of seasonal staff. We treated our teams very, very well, but sponsored racers knew they might have to take a back seat for customer service when we were in the weeds. (FWIW, as a shop manger, I would encourage team members to call ahead on some purchases. That way, I could prepare a discounted invoice.)

By the way, Spade. I've seen pics. If I was still in the game, I'd sell you Giro all day long.

I'd go easy on the team if skin suits or a jersey+shorts weren't about $200. Joining them was a little pricy.

I'll likely be getting a Giro Air Attack Shield due to the increasing amount of Merckx style TTs that are becoming popular. I need about every advantage I can get with TT bikes out of the picture. Kinda wish the vents could be completely blocked for a little more aero or warmth in cold weather.
 
I'd go easy on the team if skin suits or a jersey+shorts weren't about $200. Joining them was a little pricy.

I'll likely be getting a Giro Air Attack Shield due to the increasing amount of Merckx style TTs that are becoming popular. I need about every advantage I can get with TT bikes out of the picture. Kinda wish the vents could be completely blocked for a little more aero or warmth in cold weather.
Ugh. We gave a much better deal than that...IIRC, we gave each team member one jersey+shorts, and sold any others at cost +5%. Team members got in-stock stuff at cost+5, and special orders at cost+10. We (I) worked a deal with IF for below-cost frames.

That was in the 90s and early 00s, however. The market has changed a lot for shops--the cycling boom is gravy, but margins are tighter because of competition. In my area, there are far fewer teams, but teams seem to be larger, more professional, and more internally competitive. Racers are more likely to be hyper-Alpha attorneys than bike messengers...and I'm guessing they're happy to absorb a higher cost of racing. (More gear!)

I did a Davis Phinney in '97, which ended any hopes of competitive riding in Masters (or even riding a full-race bike.) I'm glad I was in there when I was...hairnet helmet, silk sew-ups, drilled-out everything...yeah. I'm old.
 
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Ugh. We gave a much better deal than that...IIRC, we gave each team member one jersey+shorts, and sold any others at cost +5%. Team members got in-stock stuff at cost+5, and special orders at cost+10. We (I) worked a deal with IF for below-cost frames.

That was in the 90s and early 00s, however. The market has changed a lot for shops--the cycling boom is gravy, but margins are tighter because of competition. In my area, there are far fewer teams, but teams seem to be larger, more professional, and more internally competitive. Racers are more likely to be hyper-Alpha attorneys than bike messengers...and I'm guessing they're happy to absorb a higher cost of racing. (More gear!)

I did a Davis Phinney in '97, which ended any hopes of competitive riding in Masters (or even riding a full-race bike.) I'm glad I was in there when I was...hairnet helmet, silk sew-ups, drilled-out everything...yeah. I'm old.

I don't think the shop was responsible for the jersey prices. It was some nice stuff through Sugoi. I used to ride for an amateur club team for Team Type 1. I basically got my pick of leftover XS clothing from the previous years. DeMarchi kits were nice and usually $60.

For racing, I'm really more of a beta male. I mostly do it for personal fitness. Of course, faster is generally a lot more fun. Had a really nice 24.6mph ITT the other night, which was my fastest of the year.
 
I got a helmet that fits me nicely. The $40 Bontrager, and I liked it more than the $100 and $75 ones.

As for gloves: I rode my commute without gloves yesterday, with today, just to see the difference. My hands did go numb yesterday, not at all today. They about doubled the mileage before I start to feel uncomfortable.
 
Just wanted to mention that, as far as riding with no hands, you might find it easier on a bike with road bars than with the straight bars. I've been riding for a long time (although with about a 20 year break after I blew out my knee back in the late 80's - which was my biking heyday), and got back into it a bit in the early 2000's, mainly because my wife, who had never learned to ride a bike, wanted me to teach her. We got a couple of Trek FX bikes, similar to your Specialized Cirrus. I find that riding with no hands on the FX takes more effort from me than doing so on any road bike. Not sure why that is, although I suppose it could be just me...
 
For the helmet I had the same issue. So, I stood looking in the mirror and kept adjusting/fiddling with the straps. For some reason, I never got it right until looking at the mirror.

For the numb hands and straight bar I found that loosening the bar at the stem and rolling it forward to change my hand's "contact patch" with the grip did the trick. Once rolled forward my forearm, wrist, hand lined up and reaching the brake lever was more comfortable. It helped me to relieve pressure from one spot on my hand and now riding is more comfortable.

Just ride. I have done centuries on a road bike and cross bike. I have done metric centuries (100K/60 miles) offroad. Enjoy it, stay hydrated, and eat along the way.
 
Just wanted to mention that, as far as riding with no hands, you might find it easier on a bike with road bars than with the straight bars. I've been riding for a long time (although with about a 20 year break after I blew out my knee back in the late 80's - which was my biking heyday), and got back into it a bit in the early 2000's, mainly because my wife, who had never learned to ride a bike, wanted me to teach her. We got a couple of Trek FX bikes, similar to your Specialized Cirrus. I find that riding with no hands on the FX takes more effort from me than doing so on any road bike. Not sure why that is, although I suppose it could be just me...
I believe there two factors involved - geometry, and weight.

The geometry of the fork determines whether the bicycle is better at proceeding in a straight line - the wheel is further in front of a line down from the headset; or better at quick turning response - wheel is mounted closer to the center line. Road bikes are set up to go long distances in a straight line, as are cruisers, but mountain bikes are designed for quick response on trails that have frequent turns. This is called offset.

Weight : A heavy wheel will tend not to turn when rotating - gyroscope effect. A lighter wheel will have less of this effect.
 

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