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D'addario EXL170 nickels

I do agree about the 40G being a bit thin and light. For me the problem is the 65D, which is noticeably tighter than the rest. This is why I've always preferred a set with a 45G and a 60D, or something close to that.

IMHO, and I opened a topic about it, it's all a matter of setup; far too often people judge strings without doing a proper setup to the instrument, and then find strings being too tight or too soft, but maybe they just need to lower or raise the saddle half a turn.

I do prefer 45-65-80-100 strings better than "balanced tension" or 45-105 because I find that they match better with a proper setup: a tight A string, with a tension similar to the D will be comfortable if lower on the fretboard, so the actual feeling while pressing it is of a softer string.
a smaller A will need a bit of air between the frets, and so the feeling will be closer to the D, also considering the different position of the fingers while pressing!

a G string is nearer the hand, so you have more strength; an E or A string is far from the hand, and you need to use more strength to press it, so a lower gauge is useful.

I have 45-100 strings on all my basses right now (two with EXL170, one with ECB81) and they are alla perfectly comfortable and balanced, except a Jazz with Labella Jamerson 52-73-95-110 on it.
these Labella are strange, a world on their own, but for example they have the SAME tension as Ernie Ball 50-105 nickel strings... weird!
I switched from EB 50-105 to Labella 52-110 four times on four different basses (some time even viceversa), and the neck never needed any kind of truss rod setup.

even being so large, they are still flexible and not so tight.
 
far too often people judge strings without doing a proper setup to the instrument, and then find strings being too tight or too soft, but maybe they just need to lower or raise the saddle half a turn.

Adjusting the action would only help with fretting, not plucking. When I can feel the tightness of the D string under my plucking fingers, it's not a simple matter of "proper setup".
 
Its usually my plucking hand that i feel the difference too. My string height is set as low as i can make it without fret buzz which on most basses is around 2mm. On some basses where i do play lighter it is a touch lower. I have even adjusted a single string height because i can hear a slight difference in volume levels with the others. I've set up all my own basses since i started playing in 70's.
Dave
 
Old thread I know, but I just bought a bass with the 170s on and really love the feel.

Did you get to try the balanced tension versions? What did you discover if so?

Its usually my plucking hand that i feel the difference too. My string height is set as low as i can make it without fret buzz which on most basses is around 2mm. On some basses where i do play lighter it is a touch lower. I have even adjusted a single string height because i can hear a slight difference in volume levels with the others. I've set up all my own basses since i started playing in 70's.
Dave
 
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Here's the comparison in tension numbers.

EXL170, 45-65-80-100:

G 045 - 42.52
D 065 - 48.35
A 080 - 40.05
E 100 - 34.72

Total 165.64 lbs.

EXL170BT, 45-60-80-107:

G 045 - 42.52
D 060 - 40.86
A 080 - 40.05
E 107 - 39.45

Total 162.88 lbs.
I also have switched to the EXL 170BT. To me, the D string is too tight on the 170 set, and the overall set feels more consistent. The E string isn't necessarily "deeper" with the slightly heavier gauge, but it is more even, with less fret slap and buzz when I "dig in."

The E string only seems heavier due to the history of old string technology having to make the E string thinner than the math might otherwise indicate in order to retain flexibility to retain consistency of tone from the older technology.