Danelectro Coral Deluxe Bass project

[JIO]

From the outside, all you can see is a hole with a flat bladed shaft inside. The correct tool has a slot that fits that blade. I don't have the correct tool, and I managed by taking a length of stout tubing, bending it into an "L" shape, and flattening the end enough to hold the blade.

I did a search online, and did find this page, which shows more than I've ever seen of the gearbox (which really does look like a crank-out window gearbox). This person was making a repair; the flat blade portion of the shaft had broken off, and he has modified it to accept a hex wrench instead.

http://www.jroadman.com/instruments/burns-truss-rod-gearbox-repair/

Very cool if I understand it out of context. All so you can insert a 'key' (tool) and turn it like a key to adjust the tr correct?

I started a new thread on this developing project - Geo's yet unnamed new retro-inspired build...

 

[farace]

Very cool if I understand it out of context. All so you can insert a 'key' (tool) and turn it like a key to adjust the tr correct?

Yes, the factory tool somewhat resembles a drum key, with a slot that engages the flatted part of the shaft. Turn it, it turns a worm gear that turns another gear attached to the nut at the end of the truss rod.

 

[JIO]

Posted this on my Scarab Deluxe Bass Scarab Deluxe Bass thread but my build threads have consistently overlapped so I'll post it here as well. Bought this late 60's Silvertone guitar body on eBay - it should arrive in the next couple of days. I got two together (not the same) but this is the one I wanted. It's pretty much the same as the Vinnie Bell/Coral Wasp guitar that I based the Calabrone on. (the short-scaled bass version) Got it for a good price and may build it into a 6-string guitar for the guitarist in my trio. He's expressed wanting one of my creations and this would be the perfect starting point. Haven't built a 6-string guitar but my first tact will be to consult with Johnny to see what would encompass his 'dream guitar'. Once that has been established, the rest is easy.

 

[JIO]

I'll guess that Johnny will want this guitar finished like my Super SLX - black raspberry sparkle by Marty Bell - he absolutely loved it when he saw it.

 

[JIO]

Some Dano background - Nathan Danials was a really important figure in our world of guitars/basses and all the other things he innovated. I'm really happy to have discovered what he created and have become a real fan. His twin steel bars in his necks performed exactly as he designed them - my Coral Deluxe Bass neck is dead straight after 50+ years. It does suffer from neck-dive as the neck is heavy - but because of its flattish profile (which was a part of his design reasoning), I've found it very nice to play. I remember his Silvertone guitars in the 'amp case' when I was a kid at Sears. I checked out the Neptune book link (out of print) and it's going for over $700 softbound! Oh well - maybe they'll reissue it someday.

A Brief (Revised) History of Danelectro

Tribute to Nathan I. Daniel, Founder of Danelectro

 

[JIO]

Silvertone guitar body is here - first off, it's 1.5" thick and it has a poplar core with thin alder laminates on the top and back, so it's a bit heavy. I may take it down to 1-1/4" by removing 1/4" from the top, as the control cavity/rout is just shy of the depth. The only reason they did the alder laminates is because of the trans red finish - alder has a bit more distinctive grain than poplar, and poplar looks kinda' green. Removing 1/4" off the top and adding a belly bevel (which it doesn't have) will bring the weight down and make it more comfortable to play. Once I determine what pu arrangement it will have, I'll design a pg and do further routing under it.

 

[Jon Clegg]

Silvertone guitar body is here - first off, it's 1.5" thick and it has a poplar core with thin alder laminates on the top and back, so it's a bit heavy. I may take it down to 1-1/4" by removing 1/4" from the top, as the control cavity/rout is just shy of the depth. The only reason they did the alder laminates is because of the trans red finish - alder has a bit more distinctive grain than poplar, and poplar looks kinda' green. Removing 1/4" off the top and adding a belly bevel (which it doesn't have) will bring the weight down and make it more comfortable to play. Once I determine what pu arrangement it will have, I'll design a pg and do further routing under it.

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It would be cool if he went for the P90-Lipbucker combo.

 

[JIO]

It would be cool if he went for the P90-Lipbucker combo.

He's a rock dude who currently has "one of each". (Strat/Tele/SG) I'll see if I can steer him to something he doesn't have.

Learned that this is actually a '65 Harmony H19 Silhouette. The Silvertone was very similar (same exact body) but had a different pg and tail-piece.

 

[Cyberhippo]

That bass looks awfully familiar, @JIO
I’ve gotta 66” P Bass too. Oh yeah...and a Danelectro Coral Deluxe as well.


Pretty sure you’re my bass doppelgänger if there is such a thing (I’ve gotta 66” Ampeg B18n with two JBL K140s also). Spooky right?

I’ve been on an island for ages only remembering once every few months to google Coral Deluxe to check for new info. Not only was I shocked to find something new, I was blown away by your assessment of it. 100% spot on. The bad and the good.

The overall geometry, the neck dive = comical. The bridge seems like someone made a bet where the goal was to use the fewest parts possible while still technically quality in as a thing that keeps the strings in place.

But that’s the thing. This thing is definitely a result of some serious design and consideration. Someone put some serious thought and made some legit choices because the results are far from luck. They threaded some weird needle of budget/high concept and birthed a baby Huey of a bass that combines the bast parts of a P-bass and a jazz bass.

Great job piecing it together. Looks terrific.

 

[JIO]

That bass looks awfully familiar, @JIO
I’ve gotta 66” P Bass too. Oh yeah...and a Danelectro Coral Deluxe as well.
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Pretty sure you’re my bass doppelgänger if there is such a thing (I’ve gotta 66” Ampeg B18n with two JBL K140s also). Spooky right?

I’ve been on an island for ages only remembering once every few months to google Coral Deluxe to check for new info. Not only was I shocked to find something new, I was blown away by your assessment of it. 100% spot on. The bad and the good.

The overall geometry, the neck dive = comical. The bridge seems like someone made a bet where the goal was to use the fewest parts possible while still technically quality in as a thing that keeps the strings in place.

But that’s the thing. This thing is definitely a result of some serious design and consideration. Someone put some serious thought and made some legit choices because the results are far from luck. They threaded some weird needle of budget/high concept and birthed a baby Huey of a bass that combines the bast parts of a P-bass and a jazz bass.

Great job piecing it together. Looks terrific.

Wow Bob Wow! So cool! Many questions/observations - how long have you had the Coral? Looks to be the original finish colour which they called Fire Red... however, unlike the example I posted on page 1 of this thread, it appears that under that red there appears to be black in the upper curve. (or is that just some non-paint related discolouration?) Was your bridge cover missing also? Do you have its OHSC? Do you have the other finger rest? It's funny because mine came with both but I recently removed the G-side one as it was interfering with my right hand technique. Is your neck dead-straight? Mine is - a real testament to their use of twin steel bars! (abet at the expense of being heavy!) I'm having a neck made by my luthier Dan Ransom/SF based on it for a new build and he couldn't do that exact thin flat D-shaped profile with the addition of a tr. He's getting it as close as he can, but the point is that that profile was only possible because of the steel beams. I love the CDB neck! It's vintage P nut-width (1-3/4") and a narrow 2-3/8" at the heal (a Gibson T-bird is 2.5" at the heal) so really unique/different from a standard Fender or Gibson style. I played it last night at a show here in Pacifica at Winters Tavern through my Ampeg B-15N cab powered by my 2 tube preamp Ashdown 550 Spyder head - the combo of all of the above creates tone to die for. I'm not exaggerating. I'll post pics/vids once I sort through what was shot but it won't do it justice - to hear it live is to hear the voice of...doG!

I also notice the way you have your string ball-ends hooked to the bridge - is that the way Dano intended it? I didn't even consider that they would work like that - but as the string slot-section of the bridge is thin to a point there it seems logical/doable. As you saw I have mine different/more standard.

And yes, very cool that we both have such good tastes in equipment/instruments! Where in CA are you? So you have a B18N but with two (JBL140) drivers? (2 cabs?) I borrowed or rented (can't remember) a B18 when I was in my High School Top 40 'combo' - it probably wasn't that old at that point. I have a Carvin 18" cab that I use at my rehearsal space with a Mesa M2000 head. (650w tube/FET hybrid) The Coral has a lot of mid/top-end so big fat drivers bring the beef making for it's unique tone/sound.

"But that’s the thing. This thing is definitely a result of some serious design and consideration. Someone put some serious thought and made some legit choices because the results are far from luck. They threaded some weird needle of budget/high concept and birthed a baby Huey of a bass that combines the bast parts of a P-bass and a jazz bass."

This is spot-on. I own some pretty special/amazing vintage basses, '64 T-bird II, '65 Teisco Del Rey ss, '66 P-bass, '68 Custom Kraft hollow-body and a number I've designed/created - and the Coral stands proud with them!

 

[Cyberhippo]

I'll do my best with the answers:

How long have you had the Coral? 3 years
Is your neck dead-straight? Yep.
Was your bridge cover missing also? Yep. Your fabricated one looks killer, similar to that Coral Reverb Post. I've debated the idea of making one that's opened on both sides to avoid removing it every time I change strings. Than I worry I'll look like I've got a pickup cover for a bridge cover.

Do you have its OHSC? No. I've always assumed that whatever OHSC came with it would be a heavy, flimsy POS. I've been threaten to make a classy, suitable one but I've stuck with a gig bag that barely contains it.

Do you have the other finger rest? I've got both as well. Removed the top one immediately and put it where all finger rests and pickup covers belong - a drawer. I kept the lower one on because it doesn't get in my way.

Looks to be the original finish colour which they called Fire Red... however, unlike the example I posted on page 1 of this thread, it appears that under that red there appears to be black in the upper curve. (or is that just some non-paint related discolouration?):

• Picked up the bass from Caveman Music in Northeast LA (ie. Glendale/Highland Park/Pasadena area), a shop in my neighborhood. The shop owner originally sold it to someone when he worked at Guitar Center vintage dept. The shop owner said that same guy walked into his new shop looking to sell it 10 years later.
  • Entire bass is all original from what I understand
  • Original stacked knobs were missing BUT I took the bass over to Future Music a couple miles away. Jack, shop owner and great guy, revealed a set of period correct knobs that matched the bass perfectly! Said he'd been sitting on them for over 20 years.
• Paint: I don't know a ton about paint but you're right about the black being there.
  • Looks like there are multiple colors actually (white, black, red). Pretty sure red/"fiesta red" can be a tricky color to do well. I assumed it's primary related.
• Ball-ends: Not sure about how Dano intended, but I'm pretty sure the ball-ends fitting was a happy accident on my part.
• The bridge is bonkers and defies logic.
  • I believe the concept is that only a single screw (the one at the far end of the bass) actually passes thru the bridge plate.
  • The front of the bridge rests on top of the front two screws heads. The bridge kinda floats on top of the front two screws.
  • Turning the screws raises/lowers the bridge to determine the action.
  • Not always thrilled about it but I'm amazed that it actually works.
    • Seems just as capable of launching bridge-shrapnel into someone's face
    • That said, I play a lot of chords and have managed to dial it in but it's a challenge for sure.
    • Love the ideas you've been working on though.

Your bass collection is fantastic. I feel like an idiot for sleeping on the Thunderbird basses for so long. Actually JohnK worked on both my P-Bass and the Coral. I do what I can but take it to a pro every once in a while to make sure I'm not ruining anything. While I was waiting he let me mess around with one of his and I couldn't believe the tone capabilities. Similar to the Coral, getting a P-Bass to J-Bass tones with minor adjustments to the each volume knob.

As far as my amp goes, I've got an original 1966 Ampeg B18n. While I've got the original behemoth of an 18" cab, I run the head into 2 1x15" cabs each loaded with a K-140. I got a few years ago from Bob Dixon who repairs amps for a lot folks and has for years. It sounded killer with the original setup but the JBLs brought out a lot more subtleties/harmonic-zing for lack of a professional word.

I run a origin effects compact> southampton ictineo> cloven hoof> guyatone ps2 phaser> B18n. You're right about the Coral mids/top - such a cool slant on things.

I've also got a Eko 995 copy from the 60's that is simple amazing for what it is. I'm sure someone could tell the difference between it and a hofner but I can't. And it feels incredibly solid too (minus the tuning machines).

 

[JIO]

I'll do my best with the answers:

How long have you had the Coral? 3 years
Is your neck dead-straight? Yep.
Was your bridge cover missing also? Yep. Your fabricated one looks killer, similar to that Coral Reverb Post. I've debated the idea of making one that's opened on both sides to avoid removing it every time I change strings. Than I worry I'll look like I've got a pickup cover for a bridge cover.

Do you have its OHSC? No. I've always assumed that whatever OHSC came with it would be a heavy, flimsy POS. I've been threaten to make a classy, suitable one but I've stuck with a gig bag that barely contains it.

Do you have the other finger rest? I've got both as well. Removed the top one immediately and put it where all finger rests and pickup covers belong - a drawer. I kept the lower one on because it doesn't get in my way.

Looks to be the original finish colour which they called Fire Red... however, unlike the example I posted on page 1 of this thread, it appears that under that red there appears to be black in the upper curve. (or is that just some non-paint related discolouration?):

• Picked up the bass from Caveman Music in Northeast LA (ie. Glendale/Highland Park/Pasadena area), a shop in my neighborhood. The shop owner originally sold it to someone when he worked at Guitar Center vintage dept. The shop owner said that same guy walked into his new shop looking to sell it 10 years later.
  • Entire bass is all original from what I understand
  • Original stacked knobs were missing BUT I took the bass over to Future Music a couple miles away. Jack, shop owner and great guy, revealed a set of period correct knobs that matched the bass perfectly! Said he'd been sitting on them for over 20 years.
• Paint: I don't know a ton about paint but you're right about the black being there.
  • Looks like there are multiple colors actually (white, black, red). Pretty sure red/"fiesta red" can be a tricky color to do well. I assumed it's primary related.
• Ball-ends: Not sure about how Dano intended, but I'm pretty sure the ball-ends fitting was a happy accident on my part.
• The bridge is bonkers and defies logic.
  • I believe the concept is that only a single screw (the one at the far end of the bass) actually passes thru the bridge plate.
  • The front of the bridge rests on top of the front two screws heads. The bridge kinda floats on top of the front two screws.
  • Turning the screws raises/lowers the bridge to determine the action.
  • Not always thrilled about it but I'm amazed that it actually works.
    • Seems just as capable of launching bridge-shrapnel into someone's face
    • That said, I play a lot of chords and have managed to dial it in but it's a challenge for sure.
    • Love the ideas you've been working on though.

Your bass collection is fantastic. I feel like an idiot for sleeping on the Thunderbird basses for so long. Actually JohnK worked on both my P-Bass and the Coral. I do what I can but take it to a pro every once in a while to make sure I'm not ruining anything. While I was waiting he let me mess around with one of his and I couldn't believe the tone capabilities. Similar to the Coral, getting a P-Bass to J-Bass tones with minor adjustments to the each volume knob.

As far as my amp goes, I've got an original 1966 Ampeg B18n. While I've got the original behemoth of an 18" cab, I run the head into 2 1x15" cabs each loaded with a K-140. I got a few years ago from Bob Dixon who repairs amps for a lot folks and has for years. It sounded killer with the original setup but the JBLs brought out a lot more subtleties/harmonic-zing for lack of a professional word.

I run a origin effects compact> southampton ictineo> cloven hoof> guyatone ps2 phaser> B18n. You're right about the Coral mids/top - such a cool slant on things.

I've also got a Eko 995 copy from the 60's that is simple amazing for what it is. I'm sure someone could tell the difference between it and a hofner but I can't. And it feels incredibly solid too (minus the tuning machines).

Just saw your reply - thanks so much for your in-depth answers/reflexions. I used my CDB on a couple of recent gigs and the more I use it in a live setting the more it rewards me - it's just a fantastic bass! I have the OHSC and ATC, it's decent. Luckily it also fits in my MONO gig-bag which I use most of the time. Having it was a selling point for me as a bass 50+ years old with its OHSC is a major score. Being a T-bird player/owner from way back ('74) the Coral being a little neck/hs heavy wasn't a big deal. At the end of the day the tone/sound of a bass will determine if I put up with its shortfalls. An excessively heavy bass (over 10lbs) will be a deal-breaker regardless of how great it sounds.

Also noticed you play a Butler bow - I don't currently have a double-bass but I learned on German bow. Rock your CDB and Ampeg B15 or 18 - the combination is to be heard. I'll be recording in early January with my Coral and mic-ing it through my B15N so eventually I'll post the result which I guarantee will kill.

 

[JIO]

While on the topic of my Coral Deluxe Bass - it was rainy and grey today and provided the perfect opportunity to replace the aluminum nut. The original was gouged-out (there's an earlier post in this thread showing it) so I ordered a replacement (from the resurged Dano company presumably) and installed and filed it for the proper string-height. My routine follows as such: press the 3rd fret and file the slot so that a post-it-note has resistance sliding between the first fret and the string. Meaning it's touching, but just. Once that was achieved I filed the exit walls in a flared fashion. (as seen below) The string sits securely in the slot but has no way of binding at the exit which leaves it free to fully resonate. The inset circle is a casting thing - not sure why but it doesn't effect anything.

Here's a 3/4 angle to help illustrate this - a nut is more of a rest than a channel and needs to hold the string in place w/o further interface.

Here's the original nut - way too high and the slots hogged-out way too wide. Into the parts bin it goes for providence.

Nothing fancy here - most of my collection of files were purchased at the front counter of hardware stores. Post-it-note and fret dressing complete the needed tools/accessories.

 

[JIO]

Here's a pic from last Saturday - it's funny how @Cyberhippp took off the upper finger-rest and I took off the lower finger-rest due to our individual playing position preferences! As I do a lot of palm-muting I dwell near the bridge and that G-side rest was continually getting in the way. Note the cool (old!) cowboy mural on the wall. Bernal Heights (where "The Lucky Horseshoe" bar is) was one of the first communities just outside of downtown SF and many dock-workers set up camp there.

 

[JIO]

Caught some good morning light so here's another glamor shot of the Coral - my plectrum has a small rare-earth magnet (superglued in place) in the center (drilled out to pressure fit) with clear tape on both sides. Always at ready as I use both finger and pick-style playing during a set. Due to the dead-flat neck I have my action set super low which is why the N pu is somewhat submerged in it's cavity. Any higher and it would touch the strings at the heal frets. (not that I spend a lot of time there! )

 

[JIO]

Here's a vintage Coral Sitar I found on eBay with good photo's. I see now how the bridge works to create the sitar sound - the bridge plate/mass is sloped near each string so that they vibrates against it adding the characteristic buzz/twang. Also cool seeing the same neck graft and Coral badge as on my bass. They seem to be going for a good price, this is one of the cheaper vintage ones available. There's also a couple copies. The other cool thing is seeing its OHSC which is exactly like mine with the flat metal bar for holding down a music book. Mine may have been stretched as it doesn't act as a clamp the way this one does. I'm guessing it was touching the bottom of the case originally so it would grab a music book/sheet music. I should bend my down after seeing this. There's also some sort of tubular bar attached to the upper left inside corner that mine doesn't have and I can't understand what it would be for. It's almost like it could be a post to hold the case open like a car hood, but the locking hinge works to do this on its own. I just checked mine and it shows no holes in that area so it never had that thing. One last case mystery is the elastic loop on the upper right inside. Mine has it also and is for? At least I figured out what the flat bar was for.

Vintage 1968 Danelectro Coral Sitar Model Semi-Hollow Body Electric Guitar | eBay

 

[JIO]

The Scarab LIVES! Picked up the neck today from Dan - need to do some "fine-tuning" on the Burns hs plate interface but am 'on it'. Dan is a great journeyman luthier but always leaves me something to 'fine tune', even knowing it was originally part of the deal... I caulk it up for dealing with a craftsman. (as when dealing with an artist) As in, we are creative-types who tend to 'wander' a bit from the grid. Nothing he has ever made for me has been "wrong" - just usually in need of a bit of tweaking. (which is ok as long as the basics are covered - which they always are) So here it is - the Scarab hs. Pretty damn cool.

 

[JIO]

Oh, while I was at Real Guitars/SF (where Dan has his space), I saw and briefly plucked a Dano (newer version) sitar (no simpithetic strings) and observed that the bridge-plate was made by Gotoh. Simple plucking of the strings sounded like a sitar. Pretty cool.

 

[Novarocker]

The Scarab LIVES! Picked up the neck today from Dan - need to do some "fine-tuning" on the Burns hs plate interface but am 'on it'. Dan is a great journeyman luthier but always leaves me something to 'fine tune', even knowing it was originally part of the deal... I caulk it up for dealing with a craftsman. (as when dealing with an artist) As in, we are creative-types who tend to 'wander' a bit from the grid. Nothing he has ever made for me has been "wrong" - just usually in need of a bit of tweaking. (which is ok as long as the basics are covered - which they always are) So here it is - the Scarab hs. Pretty damn cool.

View attachment 3618079

Looks even better than I imagined! Real rad and totally unique.

 

[JIO]

Looks even better than I imagined! Real rad and totally unique.

Thanks! I'm somewhat on the fence about the chromed plate now that I have the neck. It might be too much going on unless I also have a mirrored pg which I may not want to do. There will also be 2 string-guides to incorporate. Also considering having the hs face being finished like the body, which will be the green with black halo. The hs shape can stand on its own w/o the plate, especially if finished like the body. Time will tell.