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Danelectro Coral Deluxe Bass project

Well, as usual JIO, You have me itching to get back into the shop! Unfortunately I broke my ankle in three places, I had to get surgery. Two plates and 15 screws, reattaching my foot to my leg. So it’s gonna be a while before I can get back in the shop. Just can’t stand over power tools, you know what I mean? Too dangerous when you can’t walk, stand, or balance with a second leg. Anyway, I will be living vicariously through you and your rehab of this awesome project! And hopefully another 6-8 weeks I can get back at it (it’s broke it Feb 24, so takes a while to recover)


Watching jealously :P
 
Well, as usual JIO, You have me itching to get back into the shop! Unfortunately I broke my ankle in three places, I had to get surgery. Two plates and 15 screws, reattaching my foot to my leg. So it’s gonna be a while before I can get back in the shop. Just can’t stand over power tools, you know what I mean? Too dangerous when you can’t walk, stand, or balance with a second leg. Anyway, I will be living vicariously through you and your rehab of this awesome project! And hopefully another 6-8 weeks I can get back at it (it’s broke it Feb 24, so takes a while to recover)


Watching jealously :p

Ouch! :blackeye: Can't "like" hearing that! Recover well - can't keep a good man down and all that. :thumbsup:
 
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Sap green, not so much... Seafoam green or teal however...
Copper looks nice too.

Bass arrived a couple hours ago (USPS) and first thing was pics and disassembling it. The case is being sent separately (don't ask me why) so it was the body and neck packed separately in a guitar box. First thing I noticed was how heavy the neck seemed. (3lbs/15oz) I looked down the fb and it was dead straight, which is a big concern buying an old bass. Frets are in good condition too, just in need of some cosmetic TLC. Well, after seeing it was nice and level I wanted to check out the tr nut... er, no tr. (-!-) ...and the answer to my question as to why it weighs so much - it has two steel rails the length of the maple neck!
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The metal disc is the 'stopper' for the neck-tilt adjuster. The body has a threaded insert so I need to get the correct inset screw for it. Note the strap-peg with the yellow/green paint on the inside.
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Fingerboard has some primo rosewood - rich, dark and nicely figured. Flat frets but no grooves - just oxidized. Most likely lived its life so far with flat-wounds. Seller sent a new set of D'Addario XL light gauge nickel rounds which was nice - but this bass will sport LaBella Deep Talkin' Bass flats. (aluminum nut attached by a central screw on the hs side)
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Really sweet little tuners! Like vintage Fender Mustang's baby brothers! I'll be returning these to their nice & shiny state for sure. And yes - hs is rosewood. :thumbsup:
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Looking at the neck pocket it would seem that the original finish was originally a brick/magenta red. You can see the tilt-adjuster hole in the lower part of the pocket which has a larger inset. Seeing this, I think it had a metal disc that went into that reveal and when an inset hex-head screw that fits the threaded shaft was threaded in - it would push it into the disc's and lift the neck. Note 'coral' colour on the lower area to the right of the hole.
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So here's where things get interesting - in the control/pu cavity, it has an old yellow coating. Remember the strap-peg I pointed out? It has the same yellow on the inside where it screws in, so the yellow/green whatever was a refin at one point, over black, over brick red - over the original coral! The light-grey/white could be primer... Note the dowel repair to grab the control-plate screw...
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You can see all the colors; grey/white first, coral second, brick red, black, yellow on top. The yellow must have had a lot of white mixed in it because yellow is notorious for not covering a dark colour (like black). To get a true yellow you need to have a white undercoat.
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The seller said it was "in his family" and he considered having it refinished in coral, so maybe I can take that to the bank and assume it was originally coral. I'd like that finish on this bass for sure. (and I will use carbon shielding paint in the cavities this last time around)
Loaded body was 5lbs/16oz so this won't be a light bass - close to 10lbs I imagine. It has a heavy neck and a large body.
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I cut a moquette of the 2 screw bridge cover I'll be replicating - I need to do another one as this one is close but not exact.
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...sorry for the blurred pic!
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Classic Danelectro neck construction. I don't remember noticing the output jack being mounted in that sort of reverse dimple before. Is that because of body thickness?

It may be - the body is less than 1-1/4" thick and the cavity is just about an inch.

I like your ethnographic approach to guitar archaeology; absolutely riveting... :thumbsup::)

Good! Then you'll love this! :)
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I used a chisel to remove some of the thick material in the control cavity. It shows the layers from wood to the yellow. The wood has some sort of thin black over it, which could be (carbon) shielding paint. I'd have to have that verified by an owner of a Dano/Coral from this period that is untouched original. Anyway - clearly the first paint coating was white - and I'd wager it was a base-coat for the coral. Light to medium colours do best over white. The brick-red (mostly scratched off) was on top of the coral, then black, then yellow. I think I'll scrape all the thick crud off or maybe just rout it off - I could shed some weight doing that! :woot: So coral it is (a coral Coral).

Forgot to post this pic of the stacked-pots/caps/jack - similar caps were in the Silvertone Hornets of that time. I didn't even attempt to play/hear the bass before taking it apart - I'll cross that bridge after I resurrect it. If all the original electronics/pu's work - great, and if not I'll reconstruct/replicate it using new parts.
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I had thought about suggesting coral strictly for the puns...

How thick are those neck bars? They're probably a lot more substantial than necessary, particularly if steel. Not that they could be changed without significant amounts of work.

Very cool though; I look forward to seeing this unfold.
 
I had thought about suggesting coral strictly for the puns...

How thick are those neck bars? They're probably a lot more substantial than necessary, particularly if steel. Not that they could be changed without significant amounts of work.

Very cool though; I look forward to seeing this unfold.

5/16" x 1/2" x approx 25"
 
Wow. Pretty overbuilt.

...or "heavy duty!" It ain't goin nowhere. :) Am curious how it will effect the sound/tone.

Frets are in great shape after some buffing/polishing cosmetic work - also started sanding the rw fb to shed it of the glossy coating and level-out the rough-sanded wood. The neck along with being heavy and straight has a practically flat radius. Nut is 1-3/4" and butt 2-3/8" so not for girly men. :D
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But speaking of girly men... real men play watermelon colored basses. :bassist: This color with a nitro satin clear-coat will eventually turn coral.
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...or "heavy duty!" It ain't goin nowhere. :) Am curious how it will effect the sound/tone.

Frets are in great shape after some buffing/polishing cosmetic work - also started sanding the rw fb to shed it of the glossy coating and level-out the rough-sanded wood. The neck along with being heavy and straight has a practically flat radius. Nut is 1-3/4" and butt 2-3/8" so not for girly men. :D
View attachment 3382183 But speaking of girly men... real men play watermelon colored basses. :bassist:
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Watermelon burst! You know you want to!
 
I like your ethnographic approach to guitar archaeology; absolutely riveting... :thumbsup::)
I agree - especially after getting out the dictionary and looking up "ethnographic." As a Canadian you must be a fan of Invalid Link Removed who established cultural relativism after working with the Kwakwaka'wakw in Northern Vancouver BC. Poor Franz though predated bass guitars leaving the torch to be picked up by Jio.
 
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