Very cool. I almost bought one of these on eBay (but I was on holidays and forgot to bid).
I bought this instead....
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Danelectro Owners Club
- Thread starter portaflexer
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I bought this instead....
Anybody using TI JFs on their Dano bass?
How do they sound? Good pairing?
How’s the tension on a 30” scale?
How do they sound? Good pairing?
How’s the tension on a 30” scale?
Just like to comment on the tuner issue with the metal nut you don't have to worry about the nut breaking if the string is pulling outward the only other thing is the tuner would work backwards
You probably accidentally erased the second bracket that ends quotes.Don't know why that all came out as one quote... Jimmy, a little help here?
And thanks for the nice words, bro...glad to help when I can, though I'm certainly not even close to the level of Dano expertise that others on here are.
I need a life
But, yes, JimmyM is on every thread. Not that there's anything wrong with that
Some would assume I have one by the amount of playing I do, but there's a fair amount of downtime, too.
Regarding weight? My new-ish MIK Longhorn weighs in at 5.13 lbs.; slightly lighter than either of the 2 violin basses in the background. Both my 1st gen. MIK DC59 Pros weigh 6.11 lbs. And, yeah, there's a little neck dive with them - if you want to call holding up something the weight of an Egg MacMuffin "neck dive". Which, personally, I don't...As for hum? None of mine have any that I can hear. I think the p/u's are reverse-wired - like people do to Rick's to cancel the hum. In any case, none of mine hum...
The tuning machines? Rather than the traditional guitar-style tuners on my Longhorn, the DC59 Pro's have normal Gotoh-style bass tuners (those, and the all metal, intonatable bridge, are what make them "Pros"). I just now measured the two headstocks - and they are identical. So, a tuner swap would be easy-peasy...
Using short scale TI JFs on a Longhorn? Well, the TI's are really too long - they're made for short scale basses with a lot of distance back to the tailpiece - like my MIK Rogue VB-100 (which is wearing medium scale Roto 88 Tapes in the picture). They're what most string makers now would call "Medium" scale. People have had good luck with them on normal short scale basses - with normal bass tuners. Flexible as they are, TIs seem to tolerate the speaking part of the string being wound on a large diameter bass tuner post fairly well. With the guitar style/size tuner posts on a Longhorn? Well... I'm willing to give it a try - if you pay for the strings...
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I like La Bella 760FS-S (45-65-85-105)
They also have...
760FD (42-56-65-83)
760FX-S (39-56-77-96)
760FL-S (43-60-82-104)
760FM-S (49-69-89-109)
And there are others short-scale sets (roundwounds, tapewounds).
760FD is the set designed for Danelectros -- especially the old ones with no adjustable truss rod. But the 760F[L/S/X/M]-S sets work fine and play nice.
A caution: The above short scale sets don't necessarily always have the -S suffix in advertising or listings or on the insert card. The ones I've bought had a "Short Scale" sticker on the outside of the package, with the regular long-scale insert card (with the number without the "-S"). So read carefully.
(The 760FD set is always short scale, as far as I know.)
They also have...
760FD (42-56-65-83)
760FX-S (39-56-77-96)
760FL-S (43-60-82-104)
760FM-S (49-69-89-109)
And there are others short-scale sets (roundwounds, tapewounds).
760FD is the set designed for Danelectros -- especially the old ones with no adjustable truss rod. But the 760F[L/S/X/M]-S sets work fine and play nice.
A caution: The above short scale sets don't necessarily always have the -S suffix in advertising or listings or on the insert card. The ones I've bought had a "Short Scale" sticker on the outside of the package, with the regular long-scale insert card (with the number without the "-S"). So read carefully.
(The 760FD set is always short scale, as far as I know.)
A Perfect Storm:
I've always loved the Longhorn bass since I saw Golden Earring years ago. Since I've never seen one in a store, the thought of owning one was never on my mind. But then. On payday the latest Sweetwater catalog was delivered and lo and behold they had Black and Copper Burst Longhorns in stock.
My Longhorn in captivity at SW
and in the wild with my Rumble 500. What a SOUND, what an awesome instrument. It's a Pau Ferro fingerboard on a very unique neck that feels great. I don't care how it's made or what it's made of, I'm sold. A number please!
I've always loved the Longhorn bass since I saw Golden Earring years ago. Since I've never seen one in a store, the thought of owning one was never on my mind. But then. On payday the latest Sweetwater catalog was delivered and lo and behold they had Black and Copper Burst Longhorns in stock.
My Longhorn in captivity at SW
and in the wild with my Rumble 500. What a SOUND, what an awesome instrument. It's a Pau Ferro fingerboard on a very unique neck that feels great. I don't care how it's made or what it's made of, I'm sold. A number please!
I thought they sounded fine, but for me they accented the mid scoop a tad too much so I switched to Dunlops, which have a bit more mid content.
OK, call me crazy but I have been reading this thread from the start and the main area of contention is the bridge. Here are a couple of pics of the bridge of the one I just acquired. It seems someone was listening but only time will tell. The Dano sound is very much present, the neck is nearly poker straight (super slight relief) and the sound is awesome.
The fatter strings intonate dead on, the upper 2 (d and g) are a tad sharp. Close enough for a worry free life. The action is very low, I'm content with it. Stays wonderfully in tune.
The fatter strings intonate dead on, the upper 2 (d and g) are a tad sharp. Close enough for a worry free life. The action is very low, I'm content with it. Stays wonderfully in tune.
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MIK, by the way. Very well made it seems, nice fit and finish, again only time will tell. The fingerboard seems to have a satin finish on top of it.
I've never had issues with intonation with the wooden-saddle bridge.
If your D and G are out, just loosen the D and G strings a little hold and, hold saddle steady under the E and move the saddle a hair toward the tail under the G. I leave the saddle screw just lose enough so I can move the saddle without taking the bridge off.
You'll be close enough for rock'n'roll, and possibly spot on.
Will definitely try this, like I say tho, it's close enough for Rock n roll. Awesome bass guitar, am really loving it.
I see trouble in the future tho, I like to collect things I like. It does look like the redesigned bridge may prevent the warping I've been reading about. Unfortunately I see myself acquiring more Danos.Will definitely try this, like I say tho, it's close enough for Rock n roll. Awesome bass guitar, am really loving it.
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One thing to do to avoid the sag syndrome is to keep the bridge plate almost parallel with the body--maybe pitched no more than a millimeter or two lower in the back than in the front, and only just enough to be sure the strings have a small break angle over the the saddle.
