This might be just what I need -- I have a spare neck for my Danelectro bass that I want to make (or have made) fretless, which also requires a different height nut. I should get one of these.
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Danelectro Owners Club
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I made my own Dano four string nut for early 60's Silvertone Modell 1444 by Danelectro from a 1/8" thick aluminum bar I bought at Home Depot. It cost me a few dollars and I have enough stock left to make a bunch more.
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I was going to suggest this, but not everyone is capable. But that's undoubtedly the way Danelectro did it in the Old Days.
I am hoping someone can help with finding more information about a Dano that I am picking up this morning. It is supposed to be a Korean 90s reissue. Serial number 049909159. Someone with a lot of Dano experience said the headstock didn't match his experience for a Korean model in some respects but did in others. Thanks in advance.
That's a nineties Korean, judging by the D-tuners, the sparkle finish, and the sticker.
I hadn’t seen a first run Korean without a matching headstock, but now I have…
First pic you posted didn’t have those crucial details…
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I’m not up on all the fine details for each Dano year. But everything about that particular Dano (finish, knobs, tuners…) says first run Korean to me. If you don’t have a lot of Dano experience you might want to scan this thread to see what strings work well. I found my long horn to be really stellar with some strings (on both an action and sound standpoint) and other strings to be so so. I’ve never considered using tapes on a Dano and would be interested to hear your thoughts on them.
I never tried making a Dano nut before and it turned out right on the first try. If it didn't, I had plenty of aluminum bar left to try over and over until I got it right. One thing I did do was eliminate the screw hole in the nut. I just put two small dots of superglue in the nut slot to hold it.
One more question on my Dolphin, the top strap button is pretty close to the underside of the neck. A standard strap can't squeeze onto the button. Are you all using a different kind of strap or cutting some off the end? I really don't want to move the button.
Yeah, it's Korean. My 2 early MIK DC59's (silver metalflake) don't have matching headstocks, either. But I know they're Korean, because;
- They're DC59 Pros; bridge with individually-intonatable string saddles; full-size bass-style tuners; and the clincher?
- They're left-handed - which no Chinese Gen. 2 Dano's ever were. No lefty American originals, either, for that matter...
I have a Gen. 3, post-Chinese '18 Longhorn, too. Very, very nice; but, TBH, I prefer the pickups in the 1st Gen. Korean Danos. Those pickups are reverse-engineered from original American Dano lipsticks; people who own and play the originals, say the older Korean p/u's are very, very close to the originals. The newer p/u's are... well, they're kinda close, but they're wound for higher output, and they have a little brighter tone. The difference is... noticeable, but nowhere near worth replacing. I have no trouble getting "that Dano sound" out of the Longhorn...
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I believe the very first run was in 98 and did not have the D tuners , later Korean batches had them . They also did not have serial numbers . They were made in the Shinko factory .
Bought mine used years ago but the seller who was the original purchaser swore it was/is a '98 from the original reissue run. Mine has the D tuners but no serial number.
The serial number is just a sticker so not sure that is a perfect way to date it. Either way, nice axe.
My Longhorn is an early Shinko one , I bought it new when they first came out . No serial number , but it does have the D tuners . From what I understand it was just the first few runs that did not have the D tuners . Most of the early Korean Danos do .
Tf
This is the neck from one of the two 2000 DC Basses.
This is the neck from one of the two 2000 DC Basses.
Now this is brilliant, and without seeing this pic I never would have thought of it: putting a long-scale DC neck on the body of a ss Japanese clone bass. Gives you a light, long-scale hollow-body, and the floating bridge and trapeze tailpiece address any intonation issues arising from the neck swap.
